I'd use a jack or some other "interface" between the board and the flexible (stranded) cable to the sensor.Is anyone aware of breadboard hookup wire that is pliable, flexible? Less stiff than usual hookup wire? I have some sensors I am prototyping that are several feet away from base-board and working with the usual wire is cumbersome.
I was looking at these - problem is my sensor has a very small profile. Its on a 4 x 4 or 2 x 4 mini-breadboard. I'm afraid the black piece that is the jumper in your recommendation will create a reflection, shadow, etc. If I could bend the protruding wire of the piece at a right angle I may be able to both connect the piece and make sure it doesn't obstruct the sensor (IR led). Do you think the protruding wire will sustain bending?Something like this? Side note; In my own experience these types of wires work OK for DC and low frequency stuff, but for I2C or SPI or anything else that has a relatively higher frequency clock, the connections aren't always reliable enough and communication can be flaky, leading to wasted time and frustration trying to debug the actual problem.
Those will work excellent for the base breadboard. It needed some anchoring and that appears to be fine.I either use a dual screw terminals that are .2" spaced and can be slotted together for ganged use or a IDC header and use ribbon cable.
Or even just a few strands of ribbon soldered to the Vero strip board (0.1" spacing).
Ok - I've got a regular breadboard that is suitable for this. : )I'd use ribbon cable with a male header pin crimped on to the end that will be inserted in the breadboard.
View attachment 166739
This is something I have no problems buying from AliExpress. Much cheaper and they work fine. A ratcheting crimp tool is under $20 (AliExpress).
This is an example:How do I apply your solution to my "satellite/remote" breadboards (2 x 4 or 4 x 4) from the base breadboard? I'm looking at what you are recommending and it looks very cool, but not clear on how it comes together.
If you are speaking bout my solution, you solder the short part of the header to the wire and plug it where ever you want. It will fit exactly like a normla plug in wire in side of the board. In fact on those chips on the left of the picture you have the same headers. The short is soldered to the chip. the long is plugged in.This is an example:
View attachment 166757
The white wires go from the breadboard to a SBC. I can't remember if the rainbow jumpers were premade or custom. In either case, your requirements would require a custom length, so you need to make you are spiaour own.
The white jumpers are #22 stranded, which is probably not flexible enough for your requirements. The rainbow jumpers are standard #28 (7/#36) ribbon cable.
The white jumpers use some female connector that I bought surplus. I don't have the shrouds, so I use heatshrink to keep the connector from spreading when mated to a male header. I use long tail male headers on the breadboard for connections. The rainbow jumpers are either male-male, male-female, or female-female as needed.
Some people feel that solderless breadboards aren't reliable.Hey Max why do you recommend this?
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by Robert Keim
by Jake Hertz