I'm going to ask you to back up a little bit. When the thermostat calls for heat, or you select manual fan, does the heater fan come on? Does it seem to be blowing air normally?

Is there any kind of interlock that disable the heater when you have the panel open? If so, you may have to bypass this - but if you do be careful as there *may* be high voltage when the board is trying to generate an igniter spark.

Assuming the fan appears to be running, can you see the disk with the black and white stripes? Is it spinning?

Assuming it is spinning, let's measure some voltages on the wires to the flow sensor. Do this with the thermostat calling for heat. You can make these measurements right at the main board:
Orange - White = ? V
Orange - Green = ? V
White - Green = ? V

If you can, gently use something to stop the disk from spinning. It might be as simple as plugging the exhaust port or you may need to stuff something soft around the disk to restrict it's movement. Now make the same voltage measurements you made above.

With the power off, disconnect one of the wires from the thermal cutout (the thing with the red button). measure the resistance between its terminals.

Connect your voltmeter across the wires on Conn 7. One lead on each wire. Set the thermostat to call for heat and allow the heater to attempt to fire for a minute or so. Do you ever see any voltage at this connector?

 

Wow, a few months on I've just checked this. I actually ended up selling it. Rather wish I didn't now! Thankyou fire all your help guys.
Take care
Kyle

 

Hi if possible could someone please still help me??? I have the same problem and same heater. It gives me a 2-blink error code on the thermostat,which is (according to the manual) a gas supply problem.

I've check the gas as well as a different regulator and still no luck. There is DEFINITELY gas, I can hear a click sound of the solenoid clicking in. It tries to start, I THINK there is a spark but then it cuts out. It tries one more time and then give me the 2 blink error code.

ANY HELP PLEASE!!!???

Thanks heaps!

 

Have to wonder how the error code is generated? When it looks at gas supply it may be using a pressure gauge (or pressure switch) for a specific minimum pressure be it inches of H2O or other unit of pressure. The problem is there seems to be no actual schematic of these boards leaving for a heck of a lot of guesswork. Any idea how they sense gas presence?

I did find this manual:
https://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/HS2000Feb.pdf

What happens if you clear the fault per the manual?

Ron

 

What can cause it to not light? Let's see:
1. Improper air flow/mixture,
2. No fuel,
3. No spark,
4. Improper geometry (spark at wrong place)

 

Some photos if that will help...

Have to wonder how the error code is generated? When it looks at gas supply it may be using a pressure gauge (or pressure switch) for a specific minimum pressure be it inches of H2O or other unit of pressure. The problem is there seems to be no actual schematic of these boards leaving for a heck of a lot of guesswork. Any idea how they sense gas presence?

I did find this manual:
https://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/HS2000Feb.pdf

What happens if you clear the fault per the manual?

Ron

Hi Thanks Ron!

Yes I hear you, I could not find any circuit diagram myself too. I've been trying to find that myself (something measuring the pressure) but cannot see how that happens. The solenoid won't be able to do that?

I’ve uploaded some photos, maybe that will help. I've taken it apart to see all the parts... Please let me know if you can think of anything perhaps.

I'm get getting the jet cleaned today too,will report back on that...

Thanks for trying to help!

 

I have the PropexHS2800, I thought maybe this unit was trouble, however, in a moment of frustration, I smacked the heater, and the darn thing came back on, so now I'm thinking connections. it will do one cycle, maybe two, then it fails. I see I'm not alone...

 

This thread never seems to have reached a conclusion and I find myself in exactly the same situation. 5 flash error code which indicates "low combustion air". But I have stripped down the whole heater and blown it out with compressed air. No blockages anywhere. This then points the finger at the Air Flow Sensor being faulty. The impeller is spinning around beautifully and I cannot see any obvious faults. As Raycamper asked above, did anyone come up with a solution to bypass the AFS temporarily, just to see if she will fire up then? Or am I completely barking up the wrong tree? This is day three of working on the heater . I would love to bin it. But I am too heavily invested now! Many thanks for your suggestions in advance.

 

This thread never seems to have reached a conclusion and I find myself in exactly the same situation. 5 flash error code which indicates "low combustion air". But I have stripped down the whole heater and blown it out with compressed air. No blockages anywhere. This then points the finger at the Air Flow Sensor being faulty. The impeller is spinning around beautifully and I cannot see any obvious faults. As Raycamper asked above, did anyone come up with a solution to bypass the AFS temporarily, just to see if she will fire up then? Or am I completely barking up the wrong tree? This is day three of working on the heater . I would love to bin it. But I am too heavily invested now! Many thanks for your suggestions in advance.

Low combustion air is generally the result of either an obstructed air inlet or a faulty sensor. If the sensor output is known it can be checked to verify if it is working. Sometimes the sensor out can be simulated again, depending on the sensor. At the onset of last winter I found the airflow sensor to have failed on my neighbor's furnace. Replaced it and back in business. I did test the sensor using simulation before telling the neighbor she needed a $70.00 USD sensor.

Ron