I'm looking for a project box that will serve as a sort of "control board". My thought would be something like this:



Where the red/yellow boxes are spaces for indicators (they can be simple 3mm/5mm holes for LED's even). The white circles on the bottom would be holes to mount switches, dials, buttons, etc. Layout is not important, rather the ability to have user controls that I can swap out depending on what I want in that position. I merely grouped the spaces in a logical manner (one project per column). Number of spaces does not matter either, as long as each control has at least one indicator spot.

Has anyone seen or used anything like this?

 

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/enclosures.html

The holes are made with a drill and/or other hole-making tools.

 

Has anyone seen or used anything like this?

You gotta be kidding. You're lucky you can get 'em in colors!

Think for a moment: If I made a custom design with 2 rows and four columns, how do I know what size to make the holes and how many can I sell compared to a box with no holes and a drill?
Simply not practical.

Or, as I said to a friend 30 years ago, if you're going to make stomp boxes, you're going to be a metal worker, whether you like it or not.

* Stomp box = guitar effect pedal

 

For something like this I like sloped panels, in a box that has for the front panel a simple aluminum rectangle. This makes it less expensive to screw up the cheap part and not have to replace the whole box.

Odenwalder makes a high-end product:
https://www.okwenclosures.com/en/Plastic-enclosures/Desk-Cases.htm

Hammond's version is smaller and less expensive:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?FV=ffec17ad,ffe00252&stock=1&pkeyword=enclosure

ak

 

I use Greenlee punch set for holes in panels, a step drill can also be used.
For a cheap engraved front to the panel, Use reverse engraved Lamacoid, most local engravers can do it, in my case I supply a Acad DWG to my local engraver.
The advantage with reverse engraved is different colour legends can be made, and also no grooves for dirt contamination.
Max.

 

I use Greenlee punch set, a step drill, reverse engraved Lamacoid

Show off!
I just pencil out the shape I want, drill as many round holes as will fit in the outline, and finish with a nibbler and a file.

 

Ahh, so that's where I was going the wrong way: I had been looking for a pre-drilled guy. There's a plethora of boxes that let you lay it out yourself, nice!

I guess the next step is to figure out basic "control" types and find some shared panel-mount sizes. Hopefully I can find a "one hole size fits all types" kind of guy! Low power stuff, standard 5v microprocessor variety.

Thanks guys! I had a hunch I was approaching it wrong, glad to see I was right on that!

 

You can certainly find "push button/indicator" enclosures with predrilled holes. (automation direct,etc...) but those are more for "industrial control boxes" and they sell indicators/buttons that drop right in.. But they start around $60-70 each for metal enclosures..
But for something like that all you need is an off the shelf blank plastic box and a drill..

I too have the greenlee knockout die sets and they are fantastic for adding holes to metal enclosures (and plastic too).

 

Some switch companies, usually the industrial control panel guys, make switches and indicators in the same bodies, so one hole shape and size can be used for both. These are not 10-cent hobbiest parts, but they are intended exactly for your question.

ak

 

@AnalogKid What's the pricing on the switches and dials and such you mention? I don't need to limit myself to 10 cents per unit, but $50 per control is high enough that I'd probably find parts that fit the bill from DigiKey or Mouser or such.



I'm thinking the approach to take with the controls is find a few suitable guys that all have round hole requirements, match them up close enough (1mm off isn't going to make or break a 1/4" hole, for example), and go from there. That part may be easy or difficult depending on if DigiKey or Mouser have filters by size.

I'm around Cleveland, Ohio, those are the only two I know of that have the in-depth filtering and ships here -- if there's other sites that do that at all, I'm interested, even if they don't ship here! In lieu of that, I will start digging this weekend to see what I can find.

 

https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...Subpanels_-z-_Thermal_Management_-z-_Lighting
https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pushbuttons_-z-_Switches_-z-_Indicators
The "industrial control" options here ^^ 22mm switches/indicators,etc.. are really common.. and the boxes have the holes for them..
Expect around $100 or more just for the box and buttons/lights easily.. But its "industrial"

 

I'm around Cleveland, Ohio,

If you know what you want/need and decide on 'industrial' you are close to a good place. Go to HGR, they have or did have tons of industrial grade (Allen Bradley and similar) stuff much cheaper than you'll find elsewhere. Don't just go by what they list online, they have much, much more than the small amount shown there, kind of like going to an industrial flea market.
https://hgrinc.com/

 

https://hgrinc.com/

Holy -- wow, that place has some awesome stuff for dirt cheap! Sorted by price low-to-high, already found 4-5 things of interest before I hit the $5.00 range! That's nuts! Might not be in the best condition, but heck, walking out with 3-4 fairly large storage bins and a few hard hats for $25 has me planning a weekend visit already.

Good thinking on the surplus stores! These are one-offs, not production units, I don't mind a used part as long as it works.

 

I think I might have found one of the types of "industrial" buttons you guys are talking about:

https://hgrinc.com/productDetail/Electrical/Used-Push-Button-/01170991636/

Is that the right kind? This gives me a visual. "Industrial control panel" seems to be the most commonly-used term to describe the controls thus far, I will keep looking.

EDIT:
Found what I was after: "Industrial ____" is what pulls back a ton of them. So, Industrial Button, or Industrial Dial, etc., these are great! Prices are far lower than expected too, I'm finding a bunch for under $5, I was expecting about $10 per control minimum. 22mm is the most common cutout size, will see what I can find! Controls that big would make the box a bit large, with the benefit of indicators built into the controls. Thank you everyone! Learning all the time.

 

My favorite is the Telemecanique ZB2 style, the switches come in all kinds of heads and actuators including illuminated types, and are interchangeable with the switch sections that can be stacked, and mix and matched to provide just about any function.
They used to be sold by Group Schneider but now are made in China and can be had for a fraction of the price on ebay.
Max.

 

My favorite is the Telemecanique ZB2 style, the switches come in all kinds of heads and actuators including illuminated types, and are interchangeable with the switch sections that can be stacked, and mix and matched to provide just about any function.
They used to be sold by Group Schneider but now are made in China and can be had for a fraction of the price on ebay.
Max.

Yeah all the switches contact blocks at automationdirect can be stacked up to 2 wide x 3 deep in NO/NC or whatever you need..

 

Holy -- wow, that place has some awesome stuff for dirt cheap!

I've bought a few machines and much other stuff there. And If you get over like $50 ask if they can do a better price, most times they'll do it. And not everything is used, some is what is called NOS(new old stock). They buy out entire factories that are going out of business, and give a very good price. The building is an old GM factory, think they made automatic transmissions there at one time.

 

I've bought a few machines and much other stuff there. And If you get over like $50 ask if they can do a better price, most times they'll do it. And not everything is used, some is what is called NOS(new old stock). They buy out entire factories that are going out of business, and give a very good price. The building is an old GM factory, think they made automatic transmissions there at one time.

I've never seen prices like that. Multiple pages worth of Fanuc servo motors for <$100? Hard pressed to find a good used one under $500 on eBay. Smells too good to be true, and I wonder why they don't sell on eBay; maybe because they would have to list everything in "unknown" or "for parts/not working" condition? I imagine everything is acquired in bulk and untested, sold with no guarantee. But still, at those prices, I think it's worth a shot. When I go to build my CNC plasma table maybe I roll out a real servo solution instead of crappy china steppers.

 

I make lots of custom boxes out of standard enclosures you can find at DigiKey or Newark to name two. I prefer plastic boxes when possible as they are easier to machine (an exacto knife works well for odd shapes) but will do metal when there is power involved.

My basic starting point is 8 1/2 by 11" label paper. I make the full layout showing openings and symbols, tape this down to mark centers, then drill and mill. After the holes are in the sheet gets placed down once. Tape it in place first or shavings WILL get under the edges.

Any program that gives you one to one sizes can be used. MSPaint is not good, but Publisher or Autocad are great.

The one open item I have is a clear covering. Contact paper no longer works as it is may be "repositioned" meaning it doesn't permanently stick. I've tried Duck brand which is listed as permanent but gives varied results.

I have a few sets of stepped drills which can make virus size holes quickly. As I said an exacto knife works for plastic, for metal you can use a nibbling tool which cuts out small rectangles each time you make a cut. A file works too.

I've seen some boxes after a decade of use still look good, though the company logo is very far out of date ;-)

 

The one open item I have is a clear covering. Contact paper no longer works as it is may be "repositioned" meaning it doesn't permanently stick. I've tried Duck brand which is listed as permanent but gives varied results.

I've done exactly as you described. My clear coating is a lamination pocket, one side removed, and ironed* on. Works great. Haven't tried it on a plastic box though.

*EDIT: I also remember using a heat gun. I can't remember which is the right way to go.