Possible to Repair AC Terminal of Burnt Toaster PCB?

Discussion in 'Technical Repair' started by LL77, Jan 12, 2019.

  1. LL77

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 12, 2019
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    0
    Hello,

    Our toaster oven started buzzing and smoking. I was able to disassemble and easily see that the AC terminal of the circuit board was fried (images are attached).

    Is it practical to repair by simply purchasing a new terminal and soldering with a thickness equivalent to the existing? Or is that not an option since the board itself is damaged?

    Thank you very much -
     
  2. AlbertHall

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jun 4, 2014
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    There are two possible problems with the fried PCB.
    Does it still have the mechanical strength to support the new terminal?
    The black bits of PCB can become conductive and so current can go where it isn't supposed to.
    I can't tell from the pictures whether either of those will apply to this board.

    It will be normal solder.
     
  3. ericgibbs

    Moderator

    Jan 29, 2010
    6,573
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    hi LL77,
    Welcome to AAC.
    Looking at the damage to the PCB and track and not knowing what caused the failure, I would recommend that you do not attempt a repair.
    E
     
  4. Alec_t

    AAC Fanatic!

    Sep 17, 2013
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    Welcome to AAC!
    That depends on what caused the toaster to start buzzing and smoking. Either the terminals (all four mains terminals, judging by the board blackening) were inadequately rated for their expected duty, or something else developed an over-current fault.
     
  5. MaxHeadRoom

    Expert

    Jul 18, 2013
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    What you could attempt is to remove all the burnt board back to the tinned trace on the board and then solder a 14g stranded wire to the cleaned trace, bring the wire through the hole to the terminal side, on the other end of the short length of 14g, attach a insulated in-line stake on male terminal, if the female end has a insulated cover then it should be OK, otherwise replace with the shielded type female stake-0n.
    Max.
     
  6. wayneh

    Expert

    Sep 9, 2010
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    I'd prefer lead-free solder in my toaster. To me, "normal" means lead.
     
  7. AlbertHall

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jun 4, 2014
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    The pdf asks whether high temp solder would be required. That is the question I was answering.

    By now, surely, normal solder means lead free.
     
  8. wayneh

    Expert

    Sep 9, 2010
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    Not until my roll of leaded solder runs out. ;)
     
  9. LL77

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 12, 2019
    3
    0
    Thanks for the quick input. Much appreciated.
     
  10. MaxHeadRoom

    Expert

    Jul 18, 2013
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    Good luck, let us know how it turns out if successful!
    Max.
     
  11. ericgibbs

    Moderator

    Jan 29, 2010
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    hi 77,
    The next up connector/track looks open circuit, clean up and resolder. [boxed in Red]
    I still would suggest that you do not repair the PCB, if you do so, as an initial test, run it out doors.
    E
    AA1 12-Jan-19 19.45.gif
     
  12. LL77

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 12, 2019
    3
    0
    Thanks Eric. So against better judgment, I did repair (perhaps).

    When I cleaned up the board, everything looked really good except bottom connection. I've run it for over an hour now. So far so good, but since I don't know why it failed in the first place, I'm keeping an eye on it.

    In any event, for the time being, it's a satisfying fix for me. Thanks for the input, Team ABC. .
     
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