Hello,

Our toaster oven started buzzing and smoking. I was able to disassemble and easily see that the AC terminal of the circuit board was fried (images are attached).

Is it practical to repair by simply purchasing a new terminal and soldering with a thickness equivalent to the existing? Or is that not an option since the board itself is damaged?

Thank you very much -

 

There are two possible problems with the fried PCB.
Does it still have the mechanical strength to support the new terminal?
The black bits of PCB can become conductive and so current can go where it isn't supposed to.
I can't tell from the pictures whether either of those will apply to this board.

It will be normal solder.

 

hi LL77,
Welcome to AAC.
Looking at the damage to the PCB and track and not knowing what caused the failure, I would recommend that you do not attempt a repair.
E

 

Welcome to AAC!

Is it practical to repair by simply purchasing a new terminal and soldering with a thickness equivalent to the existing?

That depends on what caused the toaster to start buzzing and smoking. Either the terminals (all four mains terminals, judging by the board blackening) were inadequately rated for their expected duty, or something else developed an over-current fault.

 

What you could attempt is to remove all the burnt board back to the tinned trace on the board and then solder a 14g stranded wire to the cleaned trace, bring the wire through the hole to the terminal side, on the other end of the short length of 14g, attach a insulated in-line stake on male terminal, if the female end has a insulated cover then it should be OK, otherwise replace with the shielded type female stake-0n.
Max.

 

It will be normal solder.

I'd prefer lead-free solder in my toaster. To me, "normal" means lead.

 

I'd prefer lead-free solder in my toaster. To me, "normal" means lead.

The pdf asks whether high temp solder would be required. That is the question I was answering.

By now, surely, normal solder means lead free.

 

The pdf asks whether high temp solder would be required. That is the question I was answering.

By now, surely, normal solder means lead free.

Not until my roll of leaded solder runs out.

 

Thanks for the quick input. Much appreciated.

 

Good luck, let us know how it turns out if successful!
Max.

 

hi 77,
The next up connector/track looks open circuit, clean up and resolder. [boxed in Red]
I still would suggest that you do not repair the PCB, if you do so, as an initial test, run it out doors.
E

 

Thanks Eric. So against better judgment, I did repair (perhaps).

When I cleaned up the board, everything looked really good except bottom connection. I've run it for over an hour now. So far so good, but since I don't know why it failed in the first place, I'm keeping an eye on it.

In any event, for the time being, it's a satisfying fix for me. Thanks for the input, Team ABC. .