The schematic is a circuit that pulses an LED with the seconds movement of a 1.5 volt battery clock magnetic coil. The TL082 works but the LF353 stays lit continuously. I want the LF353 to work so what is wrong with my schematic?

 

Both your dual opamps do not work properly in that circuit.

 

Both your dual opamps do not work properly in that circuit.

I'm not sure if both opamps don't work in each chip but I tried different LF353s and it failed to work. I believe miraculously the chip design changed for the worst. I never had problems with them before. It is impractical to require two volts on the non-inverting input. Your conclusion will not explain why the TL 082 works. I tried the lm358 and it worked with about half a milliamp of current and an output of zero volts with no pulse. The tl082 also used half a milliamp of current which is good for several months with AA batteries connected for 9 volts. I already have the prototype working in one of my wall clocks with a tl082. The output of the LF 353 was 6v with a power supply of 7 volts so definitely that can't work because the LED will remain lit. The output of the tl082 was 0 volts with a power supply of 7 volts. This is the voltage when the LED does not blink from the battery powered clock. The coils from the battery powered clock and the amplifier are inductively coupled and in close proximity to each other.

 

Is it okay to use the TLV272 or LMC 6492. It's more expensive but rail to rail. Can I have the input of the non-inverting or inverting input be at 0 volts compared to ground? Is that the common mode input voltage I'm thinking of?

 

Is it okay to use the TLV272 or LMC 6492. It's more expensive but rail to rail. Can I have the input of the non-inverting or inverting input be at 0 volts compared to ground? Is that the common mode input voltage I'm thinking of?

The TLV272 should work. Ground to battery +V for in and output.

 

You do not have enough voltage between the inputs and the negative power supply. Read the datasheet -everything you need it there.

If you switch over a an opamp that was intended for single supply operation, such as the pin-compatible LM358 it should start working.

An alternate solution would be to use a negative power supply of 3 volts or more on pin 4.

 

You do not have enough voltage between the inputs and the negative power supply. Read the datasheet -everything you need it there.

If you switch over a an opamp that was intended for single supply operation, such as the pin-compatible LM358 it should start working.

An alternate solution would be to use a negative power supply of 3 volts or more on pin 4.

Thanks for your suggestion dick. I did try the lm358 and it worked. I am using 9 volts of battery power and I don't have a split supply so I can't use the lf353. Do you have any idea why the tl082 is working good? Since I'm not an engineer I guess that is why I don't understand the data sheet.

 

Thanks for your suggestion dick. I did try the lm358 and it worked. I am using 9 volts of battery power and I don't have a split supply so I can't use the lf353. Do you have any idea why the tl082 is working good? Since I'm not an engineer I guess that is why I don't understand the data sheet.

Where did you get your TL082? If it was from AliExpress it may be a fake, probably a 358, so would work.

 

Since I'm not an engineer I guess that is why I don't understand the data sheet.

Whether you are an engineer or not, you need to learn to read data sheets if you are going to design electronic circuits.