Hi - Thanks for taking the time. I am really not sure where to turn to for advice.

We are ocated in Australia in a regional area with no local electronics repairers, so I am just wanting some advice or options with the following.
We have 8 "trail counters" we purchased second hand that have become unreliable and some not working. They are about 10-12 years old and are manufactured by Diamond Traffic in Oregon USA. We have contacted them and basically told "buy new ones" which runs out to around $1000 aud each. They also weigh around 2 kilograms each so freight is a killer. As far as I know there are limited number of electronic repairs in Australia, at least that have a web presence or return contacts.

So my question is given we paid around $200 ea for them and new is around $1000, what would you do?
1. Throw them away? and just buy new ones
2. Repair them? by sending circuit boards only
3. Get a new circuit board built and refit them.

Thanks again
Dave

 

Welcome to AAC.

More information is needed to understand your problem and offer possible solutions.

First, can you provide:

A model number
An FCC ID if there is one on the device
Internal photos if possible (this would be very helpful)
A description of the problems needing repair

Second, the answer to this question is partly fiscal. Can you afford to replace them?

And, if you replace them will repair under warranty be good enough that distance and shipping costs are not a problem? And, do you gain any useful functionality with new ones?

Finally, it would be helpful to have a short description of just what the device is and how it is used.

 

OK, after doing a little research I find that at least the current version of the device is maddeningly weak. It is a niche product and while several important aspects of its operation (ruggedness, immunity to false counts, mounting) benefit from a long evolution, the electronics and related things are shockingly out of date.

This is made worse by proprietary hardware (serial data communications) and software for data collection and analysis. I haven’t looked at pricing for these things but I feel safe in assuming it’s not cheap.

The UI, and the use of proprietary components to get full functionality from the device is compounded by the conspicuous lack of GPS for location and time, and wireless connectivity for data collection. This is a throwback to an earlier, less happy time and everything about the UI and data collection reflects that.

I take it this is a small company, and it is a very niche product so they probably don’t have much competition. It would be very easy to design a cheaper, better device to do this job (save the experience to solve the false positive count problem, but that‘s doable).

As far as what you have, it would be my inclination to see if repair is something simple. This is where a complete description of the problems you are having, along with sharp, well lit photos of the exterior and any internal wiring/PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards) are really needed.

Given the age, the fix may be very simple. Some components (such as electrolytic capacitors) tend to degrade over time and if you have high average temperatures there the device spends its time, that can accelerate the process. This could be as simple as replacing a few cheap components—in fact there is an excellent chance of this. But there is no way to tell without this information.

 

Thanks for your time. Yes I agree, to me they look prehistoric but robust. I will take better photos of boards and internals and post them

 

Where in Oz are you?

 

Far South Coast of NSW, Narooma

 

Sunshine Coast. I'd have a look at them but it's a bit far.

 

 

 

 

There can't be much wrong - there's not much in them. A gradual failure across all your units? Given the heat you guys have been getting down there, it's probably electros.

 

Great photos. What are the symptoms of the failure and was it progressive or sudden?

With no other information available, the big capacitor on the reverse of the board is my first suspect (though visually it doesn’t seem a problem (no swelling)). Nonetheless, removing and testing it would be a good start.

Is the display connectorized? It appears it could be using a pin header but it could also be soldered directly. If it is a pin header, getting a look under it will be helpful. After that, the next step is to identify the ICs. The might be scrubbed, but if not, and you can’t read them (I can’t from the photos which is not uncommon) you can make the laser etching more visible using something like liquid paper correction fluid or chalk.

Careful not to make a mess put a very little bit on the IC, then wipe it off so the etching is filled with the contrasting color. Or, if you happen to have a highlighter marker and a UV flashlight, mark the chip, wipe it, then light it up.

 

There can't be much wrong - there's not much in them. A gradual failure across all your units? Given the heat you guys have been getting down there, it's probably electros.

This was happening before the heat, and yes a gradual failure
I actually sent one to Buderim 6 months or more ago. To Jerry, who had lots of work on and is now quite unwell but saying he will get to it. I have a friend in that area is it possible to get it across to you?

Jerry is "All Electronic Repairs" 18/80 Burnett Street, Buderim

 

I'm happy to have a look for you. The technology seems about the same as my Moultrie Game Cameras, which I am ALWAYS repairing :-(

 

Great photos. What are the symptoms of the failure and was it progressive or sudden?

With no other information available, the big capacitor on the reverse of the board is my first suspect (though visually it doesn’t seem a problem (no swelling)). Nonetheless, removing and testing it would be a good start.

Is the display connectorized? It appears it could be using a pin header but it could also be soldered directly. If it is a pin header, getting a look under it will be helpful. After that, the next step is to identify the ICs. The might be scrubbed, but if not, and you can’t read them (I can’t from the photos which is not uncommon) you can make the laser etching more visible using something like liquid paper correction fluid or chalk.

Careful not to make a mess put a very little bit on the IC, then wipe it off so the etching is filled with the contrasting color. Or, if you happen to have a highlighter marker and a UV flashlight, mark the chip, wipe it, then light it up.

Progressive failure, and they kind of work but seem to miss readings. We changed the wiring from battery to circuit as it had corroded/aged (not acid corrosion) so I am thinking the entire circuit board would have similar problems. They all start up but vary from no readings to intermittent.

I will have a go at looking at your suggestions
Thanks

 

I'm happy to have a look for you. The technology seems about the same as my Moultrie Game Cameras, which I am ALWAYS repairing :-(

That would be great, how do I get to you. Just not sure how we do our address/phone privately??

 

There's a 'private message' function somewhere on this site. I'll see if I can find it and message you so you can send me your phone number.

 

Ok I sent you a message

 

My wild guesses would be bad connectors, possibly cold solder joints that become problems after a little corrosion takes place. I'd look at that connection from the battery. It's not encouraging that they didn't clean the flux off in several places, or apply conformal coating.

 

Personally I think that remanufacturing the current units or redesigning the functionality are not practical/economic steps to take.

Either the current units are repairable otherwise new ones purchased.