HI
I am not sure where to post this so I have landed here.
I have a question about installing a little alarm/immobiliser on a motorbike that I bought.
I bought this alarm and I have just noticed the seller says it wont work on my bike because its fuel injection. Not entirely sure why.

If I attached the link and the wiring diagram of the bike and the alarm , could someone in the know have a glance over it and tell me why it wont work? If it it should, I dont see why it wont.

Link to ebay motorbike alarm






Many thanks

 

The only reason why this system would not work with your bike is if it is a diesel engine with no battery type of bike.
The system you show can only work on a motorbike that has a 12 volt battery and a spark ignition system.
So if your bike is an off-road only magneto ignition type, it will not work with that either.

Of course for some types it may not be simple to include all of the features.

 

The only reason why this system would not work with your bike is if it is a diesel engine with no battery type of bike.
The system you show can only work on a motorbike that has a 12 volt battery and a spark ignition system.
So if your bike is an off-road only magneto ignition type, it will not work with that either.

Of course for some types it may not be simple to include all of the features.

AH thanks for that.
Yes its a 12v normal road motorbike. Lexmoto lxr.

Strange the company say its not compatible though. I thought it would be

 

It might have a problem disabling the ignition, if that is related to the EFI system. So you might need to add a NC relay contact to switch off the ignition/injection power when the alarm triggers. That would be worst case. That is probably not covered in the installation instructions.

 

It might have a problem disabling the ignition, if that is related to the EFI system. So you might need to add a NC relay contact to switch off the ignition/injection power when the alarm triggers. That would be worst case. That is probably not covered in the installation instructions.

Hi Bill
So , if I connect the red & black to the battery and the two yellows to the indicator's, this creates the basic alarm and movement sensor. All seems to work, can you see a way of creating the immobilizer or if the alarm goes off it can break a ignition circuit ?

 

can you see a way of creating the immobilizer or if the alarm goes off it can break a ignition circuit ?

Check the output of that gray wire when the alarm is armed and disarmed

 

To prevent the engine from running a normally closed relay contact could be added in series with the ignition system power feed. I will need to re-visit that very complex electrical circuit drawing to see which wire that would be. My last engine driven two-wheeler had a magneto ignition system and the wire harness was a single wire to a kill switch. Very useful when the throttle return spring broke one time. It did the "unicycle thing" for quite a distance before I could get the front down and kill the engine.

 

Depending on the output of the gray wire you can chop what Ive marked in red and put in a relay (controlled by the gray wire) or even a hidden switch, all this is the +12v feed side for the fuel pump, injector, coil and ECU,

 

Thanks for providing the drawing! Really, though, the other wire from the spark coil back to the terminal #1 of the ECU connector #2 could be a better choice because it does not carry as much current, and it would be much more difficult to bypass. Consider that all of the current for the engine would be passing thru the contact, it would be a much lighter load in that ignition coil wire.
It is not clear if there are actual breaker points in the supply line to the coil, so there may be an issue that I do not see.

 

Thanks for providing the drawing! Really, though, the other wire from the spark coil back to the terminal #1 of the ECU connector #2 could be a better choice because it does not carry as much current, and it would be much more difficult to bypass. Consider that all of the current for the engine would be passing thru the contact, it would be a much lighter load in that ignition coil wire.
It is not clear if there are actual breaker points in the supply line to the coil, so there may be an issue that I do not see.

Its a coil, the other side as you call it will carry exactly the same amount of current as the +12v feed

 

Thanks for providing the drawing! Really, though, the other wire from the spark coil back to the terminal #1 of the ECU connector #2 could be a better choice because it does not carry as much current, and it would be much more difficult to bypass. Consider that all of the current for the engine would be passing thru the contact, it would be a much lighter load in that ignition coil wire.
It is not clear if there are actual breaker points in the supply line to the coil, so there may be an issue that I do not see.

Thanks I will consider all this an have a go at it