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Hello guys,
I have this micro usb pin and i want to solder 5 wires to it. I do have soldering iron but not the precision rod. What i wanted to ask if can solder using a heat gun and smd paste? I saw a guy on youtube using smd paste on circuit board to solder smd chips using heat gun. Can the same method applied to this?

Thanks

 

Don't see any reason why you couldn't use solder paste and a hot air tool with the smallest nozzle you have.

You'll probably be better off if you do one wire at a time (so they don't become misaligned). And do it in an order where you can shield the wires that have already been soldered.

 

Don't see any reason why you couldn't use solder paste and a hot air tool with the smallest nozzle you have.

You'll probably be better off if you do one wire at a time (so they don't become misaligned). And do it in an order where you can shield the wires that have already been soldered.
View attachment 149455

Awesome thanks. Well if possible will cover these with shrink tube.

One last thing, is there any difference in smd paste available on the market. I'm unable to find here in India. I see some of these options which I can order (link below). They have some numbers like SP30, XG40, XG50 and XG80 as well. Are these make any difference or I should order anyone of my choice?

https://goo.gl/LmzZTw
https://goo.gl/oHJL6c
https://goo.gl/2JHaP5

 

They have some numbers like SP30, XG40, XG50 and XG80 as well. Are these make any difference or I should order anyone of my choice?

The only difference I could discern is weight. They're all 63/37. If you can use solder containing lead, I don't think you need to worry about the type of flux used.

Solder paste has a shelf life (mine is 6 months) and it's expected to be refrigerated (I don't refrigerate, whatever you do, don't put it where food is stored). For hobby work, the expiration date seems irrelevant. My paste expired in 2008 and it still does the job. Just don't let it dry out. If it does dry out, I've found that adding liquid flux restores it's usefulness.

 

Standard solution for too big hammer problem at last 200 years had been one. Only at last 10 years the micro-hammers was laid in stores. Just what is needed is one large hammer below soldering copper bar, and smaller over. Shiver it whilst the copper becomes narrow conically as knife (by one coordinate). Then slightly appreciate the form be nice, using the grinder tool (angle flex-machine) - the copper bar must be at very tip about 0,3 mm thin and 6...l8 mm wide, what is about 10...15 grades angle thickening until gets normal round shape. By the way, dont use a grinder from vbery beginning, the hammer against hammer is very important factor to hit-in the life longevity into copper. Eliminating this operation means much shorter time, and so thin material logically will erode very fast.
More - when solder so narrow places, the best results bmay be got using instead of colophonia flux the colophonia soluted in ethanol or add to, say, tea-spoon of colophonia resin the two teaspoons of spiritus vinae purificatum and quarter of teaspoon of aspirin tablet (one to two tablets but be careful not those what contains the microcellulosae, it must be old type ie bad for stomack type). If add the glycerin, about half spoon, it will make the process more fine, and if to add the quarter spoon of H2NH4 it will get the larger sharpness.