My little infrared project

Thread Starter

Deck

Joined Feb 8, 2017
12
Not sure, because of the lack of the use of a ucontroller. In IR controls, the "length of the pulse" determines if it is interpreted as a 1 or a zero. The length is, I thin, the length of time the carrier is on.

From there, the better protocols use a carrier burst as a start bit so the receiver (TSSOP) module can adjust it's gain. Then you have the protocol definition. Lots of commands/devices can be controlled this way

Using the wrong magnitude of the units as an illustration: 1 sec burst toggles device A, x, a 2 second burst toggles device b... a 10 sec burst toggles device 10.

or, a frequency of 500 Hz, 750 Hz, 1000 Hz does the same sort of thing.

The carrier (38 kHz) is being turned on and off in a predictable manor.

Here http://techdocs.altium.com/display/FPGA/NEC+Infrared+Transmission+Protocol is a little example of what makes up the NEC IR protocol.
Isn't this getting too complicated? Perhaps it's simply because there is a good amount of words I don't know the meaning of. How do I make it so that the receiver measures the length of the pulse? Is there and easier way?
 
I've been busy in the past few days. You have to bear with me for a bit because my mode of operation is to suggest ideas without regard to actual solutions. That always comes later.

Having a definite set of specifications helps. Initially it was one thing and now, I think it's a few with a reluctance to use a micro.

I would like you to look at www.picaxe.com because it's simple platform that fifth graders can use. What it may be lacking is a low power mode.

I think some of the Tauntek devices would work for you along with some random remote that you don;t use. You could, say use a universal remote and train a receiver to respond to 0-9 on the keypad and train the receiver to accept those commands. So, you then have an easy 9 devices. Repeaters would likley work, so other options open up for you. You still need some sort of "glue logic" to tun a "toggle" to an on/off/
Simpler, would be a 0 is on. 1 off of device a; 2 is on, 3 is off device B, etc.

You could be in some part of the world where part procurement is difficult.

The uP is the easies to measure frequency and/or duty cycle with hysteresis. Some silence would set up another detection of a toggle.

I was hoping that Linear technology Timerblox series would have something useful.

So, three basic ideas at this point.

Commercial universal remote
a) Use number 0 to 9 for toggle or specific on/off
b) Use the Tauntek learnable receiver
Advantage: the remote can be used for multiple things.

Tauntek transmitter and Tauntek receiver
You have to make your own case.

Transmitter possibly using a 555, variable duty cycle
Receiver using a micro
You might have issues with low power and turn on unless you use a single button.
 

Thread Starter

Deck

Joined Feb 8, 2017
12
Sorry for taking so long to reply. Ok so I'm gonna go through all three ideas.

First, the one with the remote. I don't really like this one, because my original idea was to use my smartphone to trigger the emitter, or make the phone itself transmit infrared signals.

Second, the tauntek transmitter and receiver sound kinda like the Arduino products, which I don't really feel comfortable with. I might be wrong because I don't really know the way they work. I must admit though that the Tauntek products are fairly smaller.

Finally, 555 and micro. How would I use/program said micro?

Thanks!
 
The page has a selection of processors. Part of the question is the supply voltage.

What they don't appear to have is mechanisms to put the processor into a sleep state, but that may not be a problem for you. Since it has an IRout and IRin, that may help immensely.

They have a few development boards and you might want to get one of those. You do need a USB serial programmer cable. So, I's suggest working with development boards first and then making the project smaller.

Since it's battery powered

[quote[
All the latest (M2 and X2) PICAXE parts can be run at 3V, 4.5V or 5V. Most people generally use 4.5V from a 3xAA cell battery pack. There is no need to build special interfacing circuits to run with 3V parts like GPS or XBee modules - simply run the PICAXE at 3V as well.

Remember - never connect a 9V PP3 battery directly to a PICAXE chip…[/quote]

So, two AA/AAA or even a CR2032 battery may work for you. The CR2032 has a flat discharge curve. The IR receiver may be 5V only.
A crystal MAY be required for the IR to work reliably.

Transmit seems easier. If the receiver can be powered from a wall wart then 5V makes sense for that.

3 and 5V interfacing sometimes gets tricky.

The Tautek learnable receiver and your own smaller transmitter might be a good choice.
 
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