Mounting UNO reliably on a base?

Thread Starter

Terrypin

Joined Feb 5, 2016
113
How do other UNO users mount their boards please?

My initial approach shown below proved unsatisfactory because removal from the four plastic pins was much harder than I'd expected.

I want to use plastic because those holes are very close to components and tracks.

 

SamR

Joined Mar 19, 2019
5,470
Typically the UNO is rotated 90° CW from what you have. All of mine have metal machine screws and there is not an interference problem. There are 4 spacers on the screws between the UNO and base for clearance. Mounting as close to the breadboard as possible keeps the commercially available jumper in range. I tend to power and ground the rails and then jumper into the circuit from the rails. I use a custom gnd and pwr jumpers from bottom to top rails to provide connectivity from both sets of rails.
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,237
Depends on your final application, but I’ve used another method.

I purchase Industrial strength Velcro tape. I cut a price slightly smaller than the Uno footprint. I remove the protective backing from one side and press it onto the Ardunio. Then, I remove the other protective backing and press the assembly onto the base. Easy install & removal.

PS I’ve also used nylon spacers and metal machine screws.
 

narkeleptk

Joined Mar 11, 2019
586
I just use 328 standalone and get rid of the uno all together. It can have a very minimul build.
to commuicate with it for programing you can use a chipless uno via rx/tx lines or a flash programmer. A 8pin header will cover both methods.
 

Thread Starter

Terrypin

Joined Feb 5, 2016
113
Thanks all. I like Yaakov's rivets but they don't deliver to UK. The Amazon kit is also attractive but delivery to UK makes it expensive. In both cases I'm looking for similar from UK.

Also like the Velcro idea. My breadboard in the photo used that. But I find it very hard to separate the two items when necessary, especially with the heavy duty type, and wonder about damage to the UNO? Also, is it completely non-conductive?

I tend to make my own spacers from miscellaneous stuff, but finding 2.5 or 3 mm plastic nuts and bolts of varying lengths is proving harder than I expected.
 

sagor

Joined Mar 10, 2019
1,046
I use nylon spacers with nuts/screws(bolts) to fasten things that need electrical isolation and to prevent the board from touching anything.
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,237
More important than what we have done, is what you need to do.
  • What is the material for your base? This determines if you can screw the Ardunio, have to use machine screws and nuts, or whether you can and what type of adhesives.
  • How often will your Ardunio/shields be removed and replaced. This is a factor in the type of connection you select. There are threaded posts which can be used on opposing corners, while the other corners are screwed down. If the Ardunio is to be moved often, this design only requires removing two screws.
  • How much space do you have behind the Arduino and shields? ...on top of the shield? You need space behind the Arduino to attach any mounting posts. Space must be allowed on top to unscrew any mounting screws (as well as all external connections.
The strength of Velcro holding the Arduino is dependent on the square inches used. I have used a full sized loop piece of Velcro with narrow (1/4”) strips of hook Velcro on the Arduino. I have had no conductivity issues with Velcro at all.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
10,226
Thanks all. I like Yaakov's rivets but they don't deliver to UK. The Amazon kit is also attractive but delivery to UK makes it expensive. In both cases I'm looking for similar from UK.

Also like the Velcro idea. My breadboard in the photo used that. But I find it very hard to separate the two items when necessary, especially with the heavy duty type, and wonder about damage to the UNO? Also, is it completely non-conductive?

I tend to make my own spacers from miscellaneous stuff, but finding 2.5 or 3 mm plastic nuts and bolts of varying lengths is proving harder than I expected.
Those are generic items, you should be able to find a UK source.
 
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