OK, I got it working. The voltage wasn't showing correctly on the third fixture because I did not do a good job connecting the white wires at the fixture and there wasn't a good connection. So, the original issue was actually the switch. I just didn't know it because I installed the new switch after I put the third ceiling fixture in (the regular incandescent one), It still wasn't working, so i though it was something else. But, actually.....it was my crap job twisting and capping the wires on the fixture itself.

Regardless, the troubleshooting steps above....led me to recheck the fixture connection. So, I GREATLY appreciate the help on this thread. Cheers!

 

But, actually.....it was my crap job twisting and capping the wires on the fixture itself.

Aha !!

a Screwit or Marrette connector in the ceiling fitting may have come loose. #3

Max.

 

Excellent! Happy you got it to work, but it reminds me of a story.

The licensed electricians in my area all seem to sport the same bumper sticker: "Wiring is not a hobby. Call an electrician!" Most people here are familiar with that slogan. So every time my sister asks me if I can help her with some electrical problem I always say "sure I can help. Wiring is my hobby!"

It always gets a pause, a laugh, and then she makes me help her anyway.

Thanks for stopping back and telling us the good news!

 

it was my crap job twisting and capping the wires on the fixture itself.

If a wire nut connection is carrying significant current, make sure it's tight. Resistance in the connection will cause heat. Temperature cycling can loosen poor connections further. More resistance means more heat; enough heat means fire.

If you're using LED or CFL, it isn't as much of a problem for the connection to the light. If you have downstream connections from that connection, make it's tight.

 

When I practiced in the UK, wire nuts or Scruit's as they were known were eventually banned, not sure if they are still.
The N.A. Marrette was invented by a Scotsman, William Marr, who emigrated to Ontario, hence Marrette.
I do not feel comfortable using them still.
You very rarely see them in control cabinets and IMO, never should.
Max.

 

When I practiced in the UK, wire nuts or Scruit's as they were known were eventually banned, not sure if they are still.

I have never seen any used here so they probably are banned.

 

In the US "Wire Nuts" (or "Screwit's") are common place. Even on new build homes.

I just discovered an approved connector that can be buried behind the wall without the need for a junction box and access. I haven't used one yet but if ever - I now know they exist.

 

I'm surprised Home Depot has it, I did buy some for a project I haven't completed. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-Romex-Splice-Kit-2-Wire-1-Clam-CPGI-1116377-2/202204326

 

Home Depot has it

Yeah, that's the ticket. But I saw mine at Lowe's.

 

I don't have too much problem with the twist connectors (though the new type of push-in connectors now available in the UK are much better!) but what does astonish me is that the earth wires in the picture posted by the OP are bare! That would be absolutely forbidden over here as it would be too easy for one of those bare wires to touch one of the live ones!

If there's a poor connection between the earth wires and the house earthing point, that could cause the box/screws etc to become live. Accident waiting to happen?

 

...f those bare wires to touch one of the live ones!

If there's a poor connection between the earth wires and the house earthing point, that could cause the box/screws etc to become live. Accident waiting to happen?

No, it is quite safe.

Workboxes used to be all metal by code. They still may be all metal, and if so they must be grounded.

A big piece of grounded metal means anything coming loose will touch ground before it pokes out the front an incapacitating passerby's.

 

If there's a poor connection between the earth wires and the house earthing point, that could cause the box/screws etc to become live. Accident waiting to happen?

I have 'fond' memories of running lead sheathed 3/029.
Max.

 

I hate armored or BX cable. It has a flexible metal sheath (often steel) spiral wrapped around the conductors. All too often, if installed improperly, the sheath pierces a conductor. Or two. Sometimes you get a direct short and hopefully the breaker or fuse blows. It if is the hot line, the entire cable sheath becomes hot with disastrous results possible.

Ask me how I know..

 

I hate armored or BX cable. It has a flexible metal sheath (often steel) spiral wrapped around the conductors. ..

I would agree regarding BX, however I use liquid-seal metallic flexible conduit and this product is much more resistant to failure as it is intended for continuous periodic flexing.
Max.