It took a bit to decipher "Shaved Door Latch " was a secret code describing the system for remote unlocking a car door. I have had that on cars since at least 1967, totally stock on vehicles that had all the OEM door handles in place.
Those are usually high power momentary action solenoids that do require a high current momentarily to operate.
So that 12 volt &30 amp momentary pulse will be a real requirement if using that sort of scheme, because they really do require that much power.
So a relay that can handle that current will not be a small one in a cheap module. 30 amps x 12 volts=360 watts.
And now we have the whole picture, which is that the TS wants to use the audio output speaker voltage from a remote video camera to operate a gate unlatching mechanism. And this is to be accomplished without any electronic circuit assembly or any arduino programming. What we know is that the audio voltage is quite low, showing about 50 millivolts on some AC voltmeter.

Once again, a "sound activated switch" module, possibly from a security systems vendor, seems like the way to go.
But an additional power supply is going to be required because the camera power supply is not able to power anything else.

 

Project completed and working using a low current motorized mechanical lock.

 

It took a bit to decipher "Shaved Door Latch " was a secret code describing the system for remote unlocking a car door. I have had that on cars since at least 1967, totally stock on vehicles that had all the OEM door handles in place.
Those are usually high power momentary action solenoids that do require a high current momentarily to operate.
So that 12 volt &30 amp momentary pulse will be a real requirement if using that sort of scheme, because they really do require that much power.
So a relay that can handle that current will not be a small one in a cheap module. 30 amps x 12 volts=360 watts.
And now we have the whole picture, which is that the TS wants to use the audio output speaker voltage from a remote video camera to operate a gate unlatching mechanism. And this is to be accomplished without any electronic circuit assembly or any arduino programming. What we know is that the audio voltage is quite low, showing about 50 millivolts on some AC voltmeter.

Once again, a "sound activated switch" module, possibly from a security systems vendor, seems like the way to go.
But an additional power supply is going to be required because the camera power supply is not able to power anything else.

Yes, popper solenoid for shaved door handles. Ive used them for my traps but i went through a 100A relay. And it wasnt triggered with audio signal from camera.
That style of control was with a kiaotime switch (which required a sim card) also paid for sim card for reolink camera. That system had 2 cellular devices.
The new way is less expensive (1 cell sim card) and no longer needs a 12v car battery and solar panel. (no standing draw of current on battery)
The new way is to use the audio signal from reolink speaker (cut speaker wires and hardwire (solder onto) and tie into a solid state relay 3v-32v control. Output of of relay only draws from battery when relay is triggered from reolink camera speaker wires. However the audio signal needs a boost to trigger the relay. Input to control relay is the issue. I have about 3 different setup on my traps. I has the popper solenoid with kiaotime switch. 1 has audio signal to a audio relay with toggles a secondary 100amp relay to popper solenoid. 1 has audio signal to audio relay direct wire to a southco latch (very minimum current draw to open) last design is using audio signal to the solid state relay (3-32v control) to toggle relay which then opens southco latch (mentioned above) that style, needs a little boost of juice to toggle relay. (I have 1 that works and 1 that doesnt.) I guess 1 camera puts out a little better voltage than the other. (LED on both SSRs light up verifying signal from reolink)

 

Yes, popper solenoid for shaved door handles. Ive used them for my traps but i went through a 100A relay. And it wasnt triggered with audio signal from camera.
That style of control was with a kiaotime switch (which required a sim card) also paid for sim card for reolink camera. That system had 2 cellular devices.
The new way is less expensive (1 cell sim card) and no longer needs a 12v car battery and solar panel. (no standing draw of current on battery)
The new way is to use the audio signal from reolink speaker (cut speaker wires and hardwire (solder onto) and tie into a solid state relay 3v-32v control. Output of of relay only draws from battery when relay is triggered from reolink camera speaker wires. However the audio signal needs a boost to trigger the relay. Input to control relay is the issue. I have about 3 different setup on my traps. I has the popper solenoid with kiaotime switch. 1 has audio signal to a audio relay with toggles a secondary 100amp relay to popper solenoid. 1 has audio signal to audio relay direct wire to a southco latch (very minimum current draw to open) last design is using audio signal to the solid state relay (3-32v control) to toggle relay which then opens southco latch (mentioned above) that style, needs a little boost of juice to toggle relay. (I have 1 that works and 1 that doesnt.) I guess 1 camera puts out a little better voltage than the other. (LED on both SSRs light up verifying signal from reolink)

It might be that one SSR is more sensitive than the other SSR. That happens some times.

 

Followed this thread down the internet rabbit hole. I to am in the same situation. I measured the vvoltage on the speaker output when I hit the talk button and I'm getting 2 volts. Finding a 2v relay to trip the larger solenoid on the trap seems to be impossible. Did anyone of you figure out how to make this work. The camera I'm using is the xega.

 

Followed this thread down the internet rabbit hole. I to am in the same situation. I measured the vvoltage on the speaker output when I hit the talk button and I'm getting 2 volts. Finding a 2v relay to trip the larger solenoid on the trap seems to be impossible. Did anyone of you figure out how to make this work. The camera I'm using is the xega.

Welcome to AAC.

Well, there's this:

Project completed and working using a low current motorized mechanical lock.

But reading through the thread I can't find where this is coming from, perhaps @sghioto can clarify?

But, in any case there is a sort of design problem here. I believe the most proper design for a solution has been mentioned and even sketched out in the thread. For robustness and reliability the right way to use the audio signal is to treat it as an audio signal, not a voltage.

Using a tone—subaudible if preserving the talkback function is required, or a convenient frequency if the speaker will be disconnected—is the most sensible route. If there is an app that must be used and no access to inject the tone I would make the activation via a bandpass filter that matches the normal range of the operator's whistle.

Operation would be key the mic and whistle to drop the door.

But apparently some solution has been found, so I wait for @sghioto's response with curiosity...

 

Did anyone of you figure out how to make this work.

Yes. Depending on your setup there are several options. Does your camera have a siren output?

 

Yes. Depending on your setup there are several options. Does your camera have a siren output?







[/QIUOTIE]
I don't think it does. It has the function but I can't see anywhere I can actually manually make the alarm sound.

 

What is the exact model # of the camera?

 

What is the exact model # of the camera?

Name Xega model XG-02 3G/4G LT































I was wondering if I could add a voltage ampliier just wired up to a bigger battery. I have experience running alot of wire just not much with transistors and relays

 

I was wondering if I could add a voltage ampliier just wired up to a bigger battery.

Yes that is the idea and have several circuits to do that depending on your setup.

 

Yes that is the idea and have several circuits to do that depending on your setup.

If you could help point me in the right direction I would be greatly appreciated. I've looked on Amazon for all types of stuff. I have the camera apart now with the 2 speaker wires pulled up and out the top.