Hi to all,
I'm looking for advice to chose a power solutions for my mini pc.
So I have a miniPC and it's rated 19v 4A. My idea is to do something like the picture exampleI know that this solutions is not "eco friendly" but I don't have a better idea. What do you think about. Any better solutions?
Happy Christmas

 

Hi to all,
I'm looking for advice to chose a power solutions for my mini pc.
So I have a miniPC and it's rated 19v 4A. My idea is to do something like the picture exampleView attachment 310840I know that this solutions is not "eco friendly" but I don't have a better idea. What do you think about. Any better solutions?
Happy Christmas

What are the limits of error on the 19V?

 

Hi Ian0,
I think you are talking about the voltage stability. If yes I think it can work fine with 18.5-19.5v. I don't know what error percentage go for.

 

Why would you be using a battery to charge a battery?? please explain why. Battery charging for computers is normally done from the mains because it is much more efficient. And normally the battery and the BMS are integral with the computer assembly.
OR are you trying to work around a failed computer battery?

 

hi @MisterBill2 and thank you for your question. I will use this pc to work on the car (I am mechanic). On the car usually you have cigarette lighter but in many car this power go off when you turn the ignition off. That is why this pc need to be powered by a battery. Since I'm working in a car I choose the system I explain on the first post. If you have any better idea please explain it to me.

 

hi @MisterBill2 and thank you for your question. I will use this pc to work on the car (I am mechanic). On the car usually you have cigarette lighter but in many car this power go off when you turn the ignition off. That is why this pc need to be powered by a battery. Since I'm working in a car I choose the system I explain on the first post. If you have any better idea please explain it to me.

With that in mind and you just want to power the PC and want 19 volts @ 4.0 amps maximum I would just run with an inexpensive 5.0 amp buck converter or if you want to simply run off automotive power a 5.0 amp boost converter.

Ron

 

I was thinking to chose something a little bit bigger.

 

I was thinking to chose something a little bit bigger.

You want 19 VDC with a max current of 4.0 amps. I guess if you want bigger you can find bigger. I just like economical and dimple.

Ron

 

The simple plan that I use when Engine-Tuning with "HP-Tuners" Software is a
super-cheap ~100-Watt / 120V Inverter from Wal-Mart,
then just plug-in the standard, factory-supplied, Laptop-Power-Supply.
( I think I paid around ~$25.oo for it )
It's around ~5-years old now,
and has been living under the passenger-seat, continuously, for all that time,
still reliable as ever, and provides more than enough Power.
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Ok but I work on many car. And some of them maybe doesn't have cigarette lighters in working conditions. Often I need to switch on and off the car. So I need a battery to maintain on my pc during this period.

 

Then extend the Input-Wires on the Inverter and connect them directly to the Car's Starter-Battery.

Using anything other than a standard SMPS that came with the Computer is not recommended.

It's far too easy to possibly damage your Computer, permanently,
if You are not extremely careful with how You supply Power to it.
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LQC makes a very good point. As long as the required service does not require driving the car or moving it, a standard inverter package powering the PC's intended mains operated power supply would be the simple and reliable scheme. The reliability is greatly improved if the PC used has a working internal battery supply.
But certainly a separate supply using a direct battery connection and providing an adequate 19.5 volt output would be a good alternative, The one mandatory requirement will be isolation between the input power and the output power, to protect against any external computer connections and the vehicle body common power system. I have not yet seen a suitable switcher to provide the 19.5 volts@3 amps from a 10 to 15 volt source yet, at least not at a reasonable price. So far the 12DC to 120 AC inverter powering the regular switcher supply is the reasonable and cheapest, because I own both already.

 

LQC makes a very good point.

Kindly can you explain the meaning of "LQC"?
You right I already know that I have to isolate the pc from the vehicle during test.

 

It's short for LowQCab,
as in, a sealed Speaker-Cabinet with a very Low "Q" factor.
My "handle" for the last ~35-years.
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