I doubt very much that there are "factory repairs" ever done. just Factory Replacements , because the labor price of a tech able to do any repair effort is more than the cost of a complete replacement. Some products may not be worth repairing,based on the producer's costs, which are much less than the consumer's prices. AND, how would the tech open the enclosure?? What tool works for ungluing??

 

Probably only for torn speaker dome if even that... From what it is on You Tube, most of their problems are due to the ring of foam holding the speaker dome to the frame deteriorating.

 

I have a few speakers like that!! Why does an otherwise good product use the most inferior foam material for speaker supports?? I have seen speakers with soft leather used, which should last a lot longer, but my choice would be some mix of urethane material, possibly foam, treated to prevent oxidation. I have not developed a scheme to hold the cones in perfect alignment while new supports are glued in place.. THAT is always the problem. WOW!!!) Really off topic. Sorry about that.

 

How about, for a permanent fix, use some 1mm diameter solid wire to match the center pin connection, and a section of tube to match the larger diameter connection, and then attach them to a "single hole mount" Phono jack that will fit into the opening. When the fit and function are verified, epoxy the jack into the opening and install a phono plug onto the cable. Phono plugs and Jacks are also known as "RCA connectors".

 

I like RCA connectors! Actually, they are NOT phono plugs and jacks, see below. They seem to have fallen out of general use but were pretty popular in past. The mono and stereo Phono plugs and jacks are more popular today. Which is why I'm baffled at BOSE using a custom power barrel connection in this case even when all the other audio connectors they used are Phono jacks and plugs? The original barrel of the connector is some fairly hard chrome plated metal with a plastic interior insulating sheath so I'm reusing it. I thought about solid wire for the pin but decided to use hardened brass rod instead due to the stiffness of it compared to the annealed softness of solid wire.

Male RCA connector

 

Prior to the adoption of the original version of the current style plugs, there were some really unusual plug and socket schemes for adding a phono input to a radio. The strange one that I came across was similar to the push and turn base of a small #47 pilot light It had a complicated steel stamping like the light base, and a plastic insulatorwith what looked like an eyelet in the end for the center conductor to solder to. The mating part was very similar to a pilot light socket, with an insulator disc and a spring.
ones similar to the one in post #25 were available at Radio Shack and many other distributors. Also the much cheaper ones without the plastic housing. It is probably still the cheapest fully shielded, reasonably reliable connector around.

 

Bayonet plug and socket. Came in many different variations. This is an old pre-plastic one. Precursor to BNC connectors which are similar.

Mostly replace by these. Microphone plug and socket. Which has a screwed nut fastener that started out as an aircraft antivibration cable connection.


The plastic molded RCA connector cables were very popular Radio Shack products. Used often with reel-to-reel tape decks and early HiFi system units. I remember them being used with cloth covered cabling in old TVs and have a few of those old fittings in one of my parts drawers that have been there for probably 50 years or more.

The Glynco Naval Air Base (WWII Helium Blimps for marine patrols and later Jets) was decommissioned (60s?) and the 8,000-foot runway airport given to the county. Our Glynn Amateur Radio Association was given access (80s) to some of the old decommissioned naval radar buildings at the airport. They were filled with Mil-Spec Silver Plated Amphenol PL-259 and SO-239 connectors and miles of Mil-Spec RG-8 coax but in short pieces. All the hardware had been pulled from the racks, but all the cabling and connectors were left in place in the racks and wire troughs. Wish I had brought some of those home...

 

As I recall, those were called DNS connectors. Commodore used a 5 pin version for their peripherals like printers and floppy disks.

 

The 1mm brass rod came in and it was a hair too big for its socket so... Sanded and filed it down a bit and stuck it into the socket until it hit bottom. Put remains of the barrel over it and seated into its part of the socket and gluing it in place with gel super glue. Gel so it won't weep down into the socket. Once it cures I'll continue with it hopefully tomorrow. If the glue holds, it's a simple task of soldering and heat shrink wrapping the connector feed.


More later...

 

Got a bit impatient so I hurried the glue along with some accelerant and added a bit as needed. Then a simple solder job with a bit of shrink tube insulating the brass rod. I could trim the center pin back a bit but that is where it bottomed out and helps to align it into its socket, so I left it long.

.


A layer of shrink tube.



Another layer of shrink tube to cover the barrel solder and a right-angle bend of the brass rod. Cheap chinesium shrink wrap is kinda gnarly but does the job at least. I'm more for go than show.



All done!

 

Got a bit impatient so I hurried the glue along with some accelerant and added a bit as needed. Then a simple solder job with a bit of shrink tube insulating the brass rod. I could trim the center pin back a bit but that is where it bottomed out and helps to align it into its socket, so I left it long.

.View attachment 361709


A layer of shrink tube.
View attachment 361708


Another layer of shrink tube to cover the barrel solder and a right-angle bend of the brass rod. Cheap chinesium shrink wrap is kinda gnarly but does the job at least. I'm more for go than show.
View attachment 361707


All done!
View attachment 361706

OMG! I would put a healthy retaining clip on the speaker (maybe a good sticky block with a ty-rap) for that cable to take any stress off of the 'connector'.

 

OMG! I would put a healthy retaining clip on the speaker (maybe a good sticky block with a ty-rap) for that cable to take any stress off of the 'connector'.

Believe me that pin is very snuggly seated in the socket. I shaved it down, but it is not that easy to remove. If it breaks off, I'll simply solder it over again, but I doubt that it will be a problem. Also, one of the reasons for the right-angle bend is to lessen any lateral strain on the connection from a bending moment due to the long shaft that I left on the back of the pin. That and the double layer of shrink tubing. I don't plan on stressing it any by removing it either. It's in there to stay! It should have been right-angle to start with.

 

It is always rewarding to see a bit of creativity solving a problem. Thanks for sharing the images !