Hi all.

Please bear with this long post.

I know how to change a fuse. I know how to wire a plug. I know how to change a light bulb. I know..........

Actually. that's about it.

When registering here I had to tick my interests. I didn't understand what any of them meant so just picked two.

As you can probably tell...... I'm out of my depth.

I work for an architectural marketing company and an area we're going into is 3D printed models for our clients. This will be one of my areas.

The 3D printing isn't the issue.

However, I currently have two problems.

I'm hoping someone here can help me with one or both.

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LIGHTING UP PRINTER

I want to do timelapse recordings with my printer but it isn't a lit system. I either need to keep my bedroom lights on for X amount of days while printing or light the printer another way.

I've thought about just getting a couple of LED desk lamps (the lights shouldn't give off any heat as this can mess up the print) but I'm getting more interested in learning how to wire up and control lighting myself...... Ideally without killing myself in the process.

Where my type of printer is concerned, I can see loads of people doing loads of different things to light up their printers.

Me, I don't feel confident wiring stuff to the printers PSU (as some do).

I see a lot of people using this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-coo...282110309131?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

It seems to give off decent light. I can print something to attach it to the printer. It's the electrics that I'm nervous about.

Ideally, what I'd like is to be able to connect this LED to an on/off switch and either to a USB or a UK mains adapter.

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LIGHTING UP MODEL

Next on my list of aspirations...... to light up my printed models.

Giving a client a printed version of their property is all well and good but if the model could be lit from the inside, it'd add that extra touch.

Here's my test/example/showcase model. I'm going to be using 1mm perspex for the glass.

Because I don't know what the hell I'm doing when it comes to lighting, I'm delaying the printing of this because I don't want to spend ages printing it and then have to reprint when it comes to lighting it.

It can either be lit from the roof or the floor. However, the roof will be removable so I won't want wires seen all over the place.

The more I'm typing this, the more I realise how out of my depth I am so might just leave this here and hope that someone can give me some kind of advice other than to give up.

Thanks.

Sean

 

Welcome to AAC!

What is the purpose of the model lighting?
Is it to simulate internal house lighting at night time, or is it to illuminate the exterior with flood lighting?

Do you want incandescent light bulbs that have a warmer temperature but low efficiency or white LEDs that are more efficient?
Will the lights be powered by batteries or from AC mains power?

 

Welcome to AAC!

What is the purpose of the model lighting?
Is it to simulate internal house lighting at night time, or is it to illuminate the exterior with flood lighting?

Do you want incandescent light bulbs that have a warmer temperature but low efficiency or white LEDs that are more efficient?
Will the lights be powered by batteries or from AC mains power?

Hi.

It'll be to light up the interior of the house. However, once I understand this stuff, which most of you could probably do in your sleep, I can then expand to external too.

I was thinking a warmer light, however, with these LED strips, you aren't limited to one colour..... but yes, warmer.

This video (go to 2mins in) shows a RGB led strip lighting up the base.

The difference with mine is that the roof will be removable so the LEDs would be visible when looking inside the model.

Powering.... swings and roundabouts. I'm not sure. If a 9V battery only lasts a day, then mains. But batteries would be more portable.

Again, until I learn about this stuff, and can modify to my needs, I'm not overly sure or concerned about how it's powered.


I think it's a good idea instead for me to just buy some stuff to do tests and use this forum for the learning process. Instead of me trying to do something for something that's quite important without having a clue of what I'm currently doing.

However, what do I buy?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073W6K...colid=G5J8YI32UMOG&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002L5Y...colid=G5J8YI32UMOG&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I've also been looking at this company for a few days:

https://www.led-supplies.com/

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As you can probably see. I'm slightly overwhelmed with this but you have to start somewhere.

 

Can you embed objects into the model?

If so, you could embed some surface mount warm white LEDs into the roof, and run very thin wires to some point that wont be noticed, and make simple contact connections.

Run the feed wires up to where you need them, say inside a corner, or a "drainpipe" or two, or inside the chimney.

Print a base that will hold the batteries, switch and resistor.

When you place the roof on the model the connection will be made...no loose wires hanging around. (must be tight, or weighted)

You could also get fancy and print sconces or touchiere lamps and place them in the model, instead of using the roof, but I don't know what you are capable of at this point.

 

Last year I had some old coin batteries that were used and no longer able to provide the current needed to perform the operations they were meant for. (garage door opener remote batteries and such). Having these old batteries laying around I decided to drain them of their remaining power, so I stuck an LED (one of those single LED's that you wire into a project, and NOT an LED lamp like what you put in the home lighting fixtures). Starting out with dead batteries (relatively speaking) they powered the single LED for quite a few weeks. I can't imagine how long a NEW coil battery would last, though I suppose it could be calculated. Used some old 2032 coin batteries - without a resistor.

Anyway, the point is that you can use coin cell batteries and LED's incorporated into your roof and have the rooms lit in a manor that would reflect ceiling lighting fixtures in your model. You don't even need to use a switch. Just a thin plastic tab that can be pushed in between the contacts on one side of the battery to create a disconnect. Pull the tab out and the light comes on. Push the tab back in and the light goes off. Using such an arrangement will likely be able to power your model for an entire year (not continuously), so it can be something you keep in the office to showcase what you can make. Coin cells are much smaller than a 9 volt battery and can reduce the number of wires you need to run power to different rooms.

There's probably a little bit you need to learn about hooking up such things; and you'll have to figure out where you want to print a battery holder, and you'll also have to figure out some way to make contact to the battery terminals. But with your project, wiring up some lighting shouldn't be difficult at all. And I think I speak for most of us here, we'd LOVE to see your finished work.

Feel free to post more questions and ask for advice on "How To". The guys here are pretty darn smart and have helped me with a number of projects too. I really like this website. And I have come to know (not personally) some of the characters here. Follow us and you'll likely see some good articles. And some good laughs too.

And welcome to AAC.

 

One quick thought that occurred to me - build your roof in two parts (wafers, upper and lower). The lower part can house your LED's, batteries and wiring and the upper part of the roof assembly can be your cover. A couple screws to hold the two together, and you can disassemble the upper from the lower any time you need to change a battery. Using the coin cell batteries will not take up nearly as much room as a 9V battery.

 

My choice would be to go with "grain of wheat" doll-house bulbs, available in different voltages from 1.5V to 12V.

LEDs have a narrower beam while incandescent bulbs illuminates 360° and have a warmer tone.
For power, you can use AAA or AA cells in a battery holder and a miniature slide switch or you can use an AC wall adapter. Incandescent bulbs will be just as happy with AC power. DC is not required.