S4025 for the SCR.
Paste does NOT substitute for the thermal pad. !

 

It has S4025, so I can swap that out. Will also get thermal pads.
Thankyou!

 

Did you check the mechanics to be sure there are no problems there? additional mechanical load?

 

Yes.
Testing was done with the board disconnected from the motor. When tested on the motor, the drive belt is removed. The motor was tested with 18vdc on its own, both directions and it spins like butter. Soft butter. Yummy. I like this motor, as you can tell.
Will update when the new parts are on - 3 of the 4 parts on the heat sink are being replaced. Per MaxHeadRoom, I pulled S4025 and it fails too.
For all that have entered data on this forum, thank you. This has been fun learning for me.

 

So, its all back together.
No errant DC V coming off the board now.
The treadmill does not start - I do not get DCvolts off the board at all now. Should I hear a relay at all when the unit starts?

 

Is it possible to get a pic of the board?

 

Sure, here they are. The incline wiring was disconnected for the pics.

I have not checked for console speed control output voltage yet to the board yet.

Tested the two wires that come from the DC motor and there was continuity - and the board powers up (green light on).

Thanks for looking at this today - but its not a rush. I am just trying to beat it without spending $95 on a board refurbish or $200 on a replacement board.

 

I have never seen that version before, but some things look the same, the earlier versions had the status LED, I don't seem to see one on this board?
The 8 pin connector looks like it may be a similar interface to the console as the HD2 on the MC2100 ver.?
The colours are the same with pin 4 (blue) being the 20Hz PWM input, which if the same would allow running it on a bench to test with a suitable PWM source.

 

I tested the blue (pin 4) and black wire, adjusting the speed setting on the control panel. I see shifts in the vdc reading, higher peaks as we adjust the speed up? When no speed signal is given, I get low mV readings. Still no output from the board.
Status LED is steady green.
The console registers speed feedback when I spin the motor by hand.
MaxHR, I see how you spelled colour. Are you Canadian too?

 

British->Canadian !

If this board is the same as the MC2100 HD2 8 pin connector, pin 4 would be a 20Hz PWM signal, it also has a status LED that indicates stop/run/fault etc.

 

Yeh, the LED isnt indicating anything. I think its getting beyond what I can fix....
My other guess was British.

 

MaxHR, I see how you spelled colour. Are you Canadian too?

If also CA What province are you in?

 

Was in Ontario. Now in Utah.

 

Hello,
I am new to this forum but joined just to reply to this thread.
I have a NordicTrack C1000 and in less than two years it stopped working in the middle of a cooldown session after a 1h walk.
The symptoms are: belt is not working but it can incline up and down.
I disassembled the panel covering the motor and can see that when I try to start a session the red LED blinks a couple times and there is a quick bump on the belt but nothing else.
Interestingly, in the previous weeks I started to notice that the belt would stop out of the blue, but only during a cooldown.
I contacted Nordictrack/iFit and found that it would cost me ~150 CAD$ for the first technician visit and another $115 for the second one plus another $228 for the motor controller board.
That is when I decided to try to fix it by myself.
I removed the board and started researching about the MC1648DLS board and found this forum.
I also took my bench power supply and tested the motor by applying 20V, it seemed to run fine so I knew the motor was not the issue and it should be the controller.
In my case, the board is a MC1648DLS ZE0824.
The power electronics has a TO247 MOSFET (Q5, IRPF250M), a TO247 ultra-fast diode (D2 BYC30W) and a SCR for the soft starter (Q1 JCT625A).
Since the incline is working fine, LEDs (driven by a Cypress MCU a PSOC CY8C24223A) are also lighting and blinking (showing the MCU is probably working) and so is the incline, I decided to remove all the power actives (Q2, Q5 and D2) and check them. I found that Q2 and D2 seemed ok on a diode check with a DVM, but Q5 was shorted.
Since I did not have any of the components in stock I decided to visit Digikey and order a few of each just in case (I saw a post of someone saying that they replaced the MOSFET and it burned again right after). With that in mind I decided to also order a slightly more power MOSFET so I order a few IRFP260M along with the 250Ms (the 260M is rated at 50A while the 250M is rated at 30A).
Yesterday the order arrived and I installed the IRFP260M in place of the 250M and reinstalled Q2 and D2 (the original ones).
I also oiled the belt (since most probably the issue was with the friction), reinstalled the board and it worked!
I left it running for five minutes without load and then added load to it (my 82kg) and it seems to work fine!
Thanks everybody for sharing here!

 

Thank you for the info, After replacing multiple mofsets one after another I just ordered a new board. But my nordictrack commercial 2450 still will stop randomly and the ifit still thinks that the belt is moving. I will turn it on and back off and sometimes it will work through my whole workout. I installed a fan in the compartment with the electronics and it ran at 9mph for 10 min without interruption but I haven't tried a workout yet. It kind of kills the wanting to run when you have to keep restarting the equipment. Please update us in a few weeks or workouts if your treadmill continues to work properly. Thanks

 

... Please update us in a few weeks or workouts if your treadmill continues to work properly. Thanks

Two-week update: the treadmill had several workouts (totalling about 15 hours and ~80km) and so far it is working fine!

 

Two-week update: the treadmill had several workouts (totalling about 15 hours and ~80km) and so far it is working fine!

I did the same thing on mine. In fact, I have two controllers and tested that MOSFET (Q5) and ended up replacing with an IRFP260M. Works great but ran for about 9 minutes of running and the controller electronics are still good but it threw a 20A breaker. I think it would have ran longer if I didn't run on it.

Do you think it is a matter of lubrication? The great thing is that the control electronics are still fine but the treadmill isn't useable if it pulls more than 20 amps.

 

I did the same thing on mine. In fact, I have two controllers and tested that MOSFET (Q5) and ended up replacing with an IRFP260M. Works great but ran for about 9 minutes of running and the controller electronics are still good but it threw a 20A breaker. I think it would have ran longer if I didn't run on it.

Do you think it is a matter of lubrication? The great thing is that the control electronics are still fine but the treadmill isn't useable if it pulls more than 20 amps.

Update: I lubricated my tread and in fact overlubricated with silicone spray so I ended up cleaning much of treadmill. Once I got it back together, it actually moved faster than it used to while I was running and I haven't had a problem yet since cleaning and lubricating the belt.

 

Hola a todos, necesito ayuda adicional con esta placa. Aquí está el contexto. Cinta de correr Nordictrack 1750. La banda funcionaba durante una fracción de segundo y luego se detenía. El LED en la placa de control del motor parpadeaba 4 veces (controlador defectuoso) y otras veces 3 veces (consumo excesivo de corriente al motor). Pedí un nuevo reemplazo de placa de control del motor pn#MC1648DLS (que reemplaza al MC2100LTS-50 original) e instalé la placa. El motor funcionó durante unos 30 segundos y se detuvo. El mismo problema y el mismo parpadeo del LED. El motor se probó bien con una batería externa, pero lo reemplacé de todos modos porque era viejo. Instalé un nuevo motor y encontré los mismos problemas. Descubrí que la resistencia R36 cerca de la cuchilla de tierra se quemó en la nueva placa después del intento original de funcionamiento. Reemplacé la resistencia y todavía tengo el mismo problema. Acabo de tomar una medición de voltaje en los terminales A+ A- en la placa al seleccionar el inicio en la cinta de correr. El voltaje va directo a 166 VCC. Parece que la placa envía el voltaje máximo al motor inmediatamente, lo que provoca un consumo excesivo de amperaje y la placa se apaga y parpadean 3 LED. ¿Parece correcto? De ser así, ¿qué componente de la placa lo controla? ¿Hay otras cosas que probar? De ser así, ¿cuáles? Soy principiante en esto, pero no quiero que el problema se agrave. Agradecería cualquier ayuda. ¡Gracias!
[/CITA]
Saludos debes revisar el transistor de potencia de tu placa va a estar dañado el Culpable tu motor viejo lo quemó luego cambiaste motor nuevo pero no revisaste tu transistor antes de instalarlo y un motor en buen estado deberá estar en .22 mA de consumo pasando a .40 o .50 ya esta malo Saludos

 

You need to test board and motor on the bench, it needs a 20hz pwm signal into pin 4 of HD2 and pin 1 (common).
It sounds like you have a shorted SCR (on the heat sink.