I've been doing a lot of reading I know that it's much easier to use two 9 volts and bring it down, by the way I'm a noob and I'm 38 hahaha. okay, I'm building my own irrigation tools which means I'm going to activate a 24 volt AC solenoid with a single 9-volt battery tucked neatly inside an old Atari controller... (Hell yeah).
The 9v is rechargeable and ill integrate some sort of plug- not important. I need a small circuit to jump from 9 to 12 just long enough to activate it, then I can hold it with 9v. I'm going to run the 12 directly to the orange button and I'm going to run the 9 directly to the toggle switch that will be hidden inside the stick. the stick is modified so it won't be as unwieldy in the field... any help would be greatly appreciated thank you and I'll be making my own wire tracker as well but that's at a later date much later.

 

Have you done any experiments where you actually tried this to know how much current is drained from the 9 volt DC battery keeping the 24 volt AC solenoid on?

How much voltage doesit need to kick on? I'm guessing you don't have any fancy measuring equipment but do the two 9 volts together bang this on?

 

Have you done any experiments where you actually tried this to know how much current is drained from the 9 volt DC battery keeping the 24 volt AC solenoid on?

How much voltage doesit need to kick on? I'm guessing you don't have any fancy measuring equipment but do the two 9 volts together bang this on?

I know they sell one commercially.. Here's one that does both toning and sol activation off one 9v.

Really I just need To gain 4v for a second... I have components on hand if I need a cap or diode. Once it latchesl you can hold it open with 9 apparently

Because they're something like reluctance or reactance that's missing allows me to latch and open with a 12-volt DC instead of 24ac

 

I have no idea what "toning and sol activation" is but here is one idea. You need that cap plus two switches:



S1 is the main power switch, turn that on to engage the solenoid. It will not turn on till you hit S2 which switches in the booster cap. S1 just needs to handle the normal solenoid current, but S2 needs to be on the beefy side because when you release it the cap charges up quickly, with a big slug of current which can burn out the switch contacts.

How big? well... big. There is no limit on the current it will be pulling out of the battery until it charges so its the battery limit. Usually mechanical inertia will keep the solenoid closed until the switch reengages in the other position.

So S1 is a SPST (single pole single throw), S2 is a DPDT (double pole double throw).

The cap is whatever works for you, you can mock this up with some wires. Charge the cap across the battery, put in series with the battery, and see if the solenoid clicks in. I would try that before buying any switches.

 

I have no idea what "toning and sol activation" is but here is one idea. You need that cap plus two switches:

View attachment 124380

S1 is the main power switch, turn that on to engage the solenoid. It will not turn on till you hit S2 which switches in the booster cap. S1 just needs to handle the normal solenoid current, but S2 needs to be on the beefy side because when you release it the cap charges up quickly, with a big slug of current which can burn out the switch contacts.

How big? well... big. There is no limit on the current it will be pulling out of the battery until it charges so its the battery limit. Usually mechanical inertia will keep the solenoid closed until the switch reengages in the other position.

So S1 is a SPST (single pole single throw), S2 is a DPDT (double pole double throw).

The cap is whatever works for you, you can mock this up with some wires. Charge the cap across the battery, put in series with the battery, and see if the solenoid clicks in. I would try that before buying any switches.

Thanks this will work. Ill use a temp push switch for my q2v for activation.

 

I have no idea what "toning and sol activation" is but here is one idea. You need that cap plus two switches:

View attachment 124380

S1 is the main power switch, turn that on to engage the solenoid. It will not turn on till you hit S2 which switches in the booster cap. S1 just needs to handle the normal solenoid current, but S2 needs to be on the beefy side because when you release it the cap charges up quickly, with a big slug of current which can burn out the switch contacts.

How big? well... big. There is no limit on the current it will be pulling out of the battery until it charges so its the battery limit. Usually mechanical inertia will keep the solenoid closed until the switch reengages in the other position.

So S1 is a SPST (single pole single throw), S2 is a DPDT (double pole double throw).

The cap is whatever works for you, you can mock this up with some wires. Charge the cap across the battery, put in series with the battery, and see if the solenoid clicks in. I would try that before buying any switches.

Thanks again. Although I haven't completed this yet I do now understand how a capacitor works and discharges which is far more valuble to me. I'm going to use a push button momentary that I grabbed for criminal prices at a local Radio Past... I mean Shack. Oh it was hard to leave anything in the drawers at 90%off. Now on to 5th Gregg to grab some more lol. Anyway I'm still a bit cloudy on ... It just clicked for me. Lol. Ok dbl polee db throw meaning it cuts power to both +& -...that's what I noticed on my mini bb as I was experimenting that the cap had to be blanked to discharge. Would adding a diode and or a small coil or two on either side of the cap let me access the 5th dimension? Jw. Ty again.