I'm working on a side project in which I use a 12v battery ran through a 600 W boost converter to boost the voltage from 12v to 34v in order to power the LED. When I hook everything together and try to adjust the voltage and/or current regulators on the boost converter nothing changes and I'm still left with it putting out 12v and nothing being boosted. I have attached a picture of the circuit and I am new to electronics and circuits so I apologize if it something simple.

 

Need a URL to the Datasheet for that LED.
Does that LED require Constant Current Source Power Supply.

 

Here is the amazon link : https://amzn.to/2JMicsD

 

Do you have a schematic or reference to the boost converter? (It seems its not actually switching).

 

Be aware if you run the led at recommended voltage and current, as pictured , with no heat sink , it will burn out after 10 minutes.

The drain on the battery will be about 10 A ... can the battery deliver that?? And for how long ....

Probably much better to buy 2 more identical batteries and wire in series with the one you have , and drive the led directly , perhaps with a very low value resister (a good length of wire)

But a good heat sink is all important.

 

Here is the amazon link : https://amzn.to/2JMicsD

What the heck is that? It seems to be some kind of you tube link that is forwarding you somewhere else.

Without a proper datasheet I don't see how anyone is going to be able to help. Why are you boosting to 34v? Typical LEDs have a forward voltage and need to have their current limited to the limits of the LED. As long as the supplied voltage exceeds the forward voltage the LED is going to light.

 

What the heck is that? It seems to be some kind of you tube link that is forwarding you somewhere else.

Without a proper datasheet I don't see how anyone is going to be able to help. Why are you boosting to 34v? Typical LEDs have a forward voltage and need to have their current limited to the limits of the LED. As long as the supplied voltage exceeds the forward voltage the LED is going to light.

I think he meant this:
https://www.amazon.com/LOHAS-White-...0b-20&linkId=f9336b55fa39b83676fb07e3f050d425

 

The URL took me here ...
https://www.amazon.com/LOHAS-White-...Z75TWA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1528849367

It looks like your typical - RAW 100 Watt LED that needs 3000ma Constant Current Source @ 30 - 35 volts

 

What the heck is that? It seems to be some kind of you tube link that is forwarding you somewhere else.

Without a proper datasheet I don't see how anyone is going to be able to help. Why are you boosting to 34v? Typical LEDs have a forward voltage and need to have their current limited to the limits of the LED. As long as the supplied voltage exceeds the forward voltage the LED is going to light.

It needs a 3000ma Constant Current LED Driver @ 30 - 35 volts = 100 Watts

Something more like this ...
https://www.amazon.com/d/Low-Voltag...V-Waterproof-Transformer-Aluminium/B01NBXZUS3

A Constant Current Source is more appropriate...

 

When I hook everything together and try to adjust the voltage and/or current regulators on the boost converter nothing changes and I'm still left with it putting out 12v and nothing being boosted

Check the battery voltage on the input to the Boost supply.
The photo shows what appears to be a DROK 600 watt boost.
SG

 

I'm working on a side project in which I use a 12v battery ran through a 600 W boost converter to boost the voltage from 12v to 34v in order to power the LED. When I hook everything together and try to adjust the voltage and/or current regulators on the boost converter nothing changes and I'm still left with it putting out 12v and nothing being boosted. I have attached a picture of the circuit and I am new to electronics and circuits so I apologize if it something simple. View attachment 172984

How many ah is that battery? It looks tiny by comparison. At 3+ amps it likely won't last for more than a couple of hours.

 

For this project I should've mentioned the LED will only be on for very small increments of time less than a minute. That is also the correct booster sghioto. My power source 5Ah and sorry I am very novice with this project

 

I think he meant this:
/QUOTE]
Yes this is the one when I tried to use the one directly from amazon the site wouldn't let me but I could use the one from the youtube video and it took me directly to the amazon page so sorry for any confusion and it still won't which is why I removed it from the quote

 

Check the battery voltage on the input to the Boost supply.
The photo shows what appears to be a DROK 600 watt boost.
SG

Yup that's the one and it still give's me 12v on the input

 

You may still want to use a heatsink as even in 1 minute it will get VERY hot.. but anyhow... Have you tried twiddling the presets potentiometers, for the current and voltage to see if they do anything?

 

You may still want to use a heatsink as even in 1 minute it will get VERY hot.. but anyhow... Have you tried twiddling the presets potentiometers, for the current and voltage to see if they do anything?

Yes that it what I was referring to when I said I was "adjusting the voltage/current regulators and I have a PC heatsink I could use with some thermal paste if that would do.

 

Hmm.. ok thats not a good sign then.. and the fuse is OK I guess or you would not see anything out of it at all.
With a boost converter, when you get the same voltage out as you put in it implies that the switching part of the regulator isn't switching.

I think I would start negotiating / threatening the seller to be honest.. as the next stage would be to work your way through the circuit and figure out what part is responsible. Which will be very hard without a circuit diagram.

 

Actually... is your LED the correct way around - Positive and Negative? It looks like your green wire is connected to the bottom side of the LED in the photo, and this seems to be the positive terminal, according to amazon.

 

Actually... is your LED the correct way around - Positive and Negative? It looks like your green wire is connected to the bottom side of the LED in the photo, and this seems to be the positive terminal, according to amazon.

If you look closely there are silver metal plates that aren't connected that run from the positive and negative signs engraved on the actual LED and I followed them over to the side and the wires look connected on the bottom but they aren't they are just held onto a hole on the side and I have tested this while putting the wires on top but I couldn't hold the wires and take the photo I will test it really quickly with switching the terminals but I don't believe that is the problem

 

I can confirm that it wasn't the terminals it still didn't work. I was thinking it may be something to do with the "short circuit" thing labeled on the product page for the booster because that's something I don't understand