Yeah, without that unknown component I can't really do anything... what a sad scenario... I have no idea how to find what that lost component is.

About the 6 pin chip, I was going to solder the one knocked off, it looks fine as you can see in the pictures, I could attach some wires to the broken legs.

Is it possible the seller would know what part that is?

If you can find a good picture of another mobo of the same exact type, maybe you can read the part markings. Since it is SMD though that may still be hard to figure out even if you had another mobo of the exact same make and model.

 

Hi R,
You will need a Kapton product to save surrounding componenets.
Note: heating one side of a PCB, can dislodge components on the other side.
Use plenty of liquid flux, this helps with removal and re populating.
when a component has been removed, clean of the old solder, then re-tin.

There electronic repair videos, that you can find online, watch them and get the subtleties, of procedures.

Good luck.
C

 

Hi R,
You will need a Kapton product to save surrounding componenets.
Note: heating one side of a PCB, can dislodge components on the other side.
Use plenty of liquid flux, this helps with removal and re populating.
when a component has been removed, clean of the old solder, then re-tin.

There electronic repair videos, that you can find online, watch them and get the subtleties, of procedures.

Good luck.
C

I've been able to use a fine tipped soldering iron to solder SMD parts. The heat is more focused that way. I still used solder paste though not wire solder.
The idea is to apply the paste carefully, then place the part, then heat each pin.

Unfortunately for all of the SMD repair procedures it is very unlikely we will be able to follow the recommended soldering temperature profile exactly, so there is always that chance that the IC package is thermally stressed too much while being soldered manually. This unfortunately could lead to a premature failure of the part.
Since a lot of stress results in tiny package leaks, a fast-drying conformal overcoat might help reduce the likelihood of a failure, provided the part specs allow that and you don't hit any other parts with the coating.

 

Hi R,
You will need a Kapton product to save surrounding componenets.
Note: heating one side of a PCB, can dislodge components on the other side.
Use plenty of liquid flux, this helps with removal and re populating.
when a component has been removed, clean of the old solder, then re-tin.

There electronic repair videos, that you can find online, watch them and get the subtleties, of procedures.

Good luck.
C

Needed to build a tester for some high resolution QEI encoders. The speed and number of counts per revolution favored a hardware motor control solution for the A/B/Index signals vs a software solution. I had a PIC32MK GP board but needed the MC chip on the board so first the first step was to swap controllers on the board without destroying it.


Kapton tape to shield components, lots of flux and a SMD rework heat gun gets the job done easily

 

Needed to build a tester for some high resolution QEI encoders. The speed and number of counts per revolution favored a hardware motor control solution for the A/B/Index signals vs a software solution. I had a PIC32MK GP board but needed the MC chip on the board so first the first step was to swap controllers on the board without destroying it.
View attachment 319051
View attachment 319053
Kapton tape to shield components, lots of flux and a SMD rework heat gun gets the job done easily
View attachment 319052

Guys... the problem is I cannot find this component:



At first I just thought I would have to fix the one below, which I still have and should work. The problem is I discovered another component there missing, until I can't get that one, it's nonsense to repair the other one. I don't know where to check what component is that one, I don't know where to ask.

 

Hello again,

The only other thought that comes to mind if you are intent on fixing this is to try to trace out that part of the circuit. You might be able to figure out what part is was based on the other parts it connects to. This will be difficult for a multilayer board of course. I did this on several two layer boards in the past with success, but never did one with three layers. It could be very hard or impossible.
Might be able to contact the manufacturer. That's about it, unless the seller knows about this.

I did have a multilayer board one time for a very expensive graphics card. An electrolytic cap broke, but lukily only one lead. The other lead was still holding it on the board and it was clear where the other lead went. Reading the values on the cap body made it easy to know the part, and since one lead was still intact the other lead could be just soldered back on, even though it was shorter now.

I just remembered another fix was with a battery connector. That was multilayer too but the connections were all on the top of the board so careful soldering and it worked again.

So the fixes are possible, but I don't know about finding the part type and values, that only the schematic or manufacturer would know.
The only other way would be to find a board exactly like this one and then maybe you can see what part it is, maybe. If not, maybe another defunct board where you can steal the component from that board and get at least one board working.

Unfortunately, the progress in technology makes a lot of things a lot, lot harder to fix now.