I'm going to run my customary 5-mile lap before the sun even sets!

You must be younger than I am. I do a mile, walking, usually in the deep of the night, like 10PM to 4 AM.
It's great for getting my legs to quit trying to run while I'm trying to go to sleep.

I got my windshield squirter working today. Lovely weather!

9 pm and it's 69F outside. I had to abort my exercise walk to go back home and get a jacket!

I remember 70F being an indoor target when I was a child, but that is not normal for Florida.
I am so acclimated to 90+ degrees that 70F makes me tense up toward shivering!

 

I saw 65°F here today under blue skies, before I went in to make wings and watch the Cubs earn a trip to the World Series! 1st time since 1945.

 

watch the Cubs earn a trip to the World Series!

I've heard rumors about a ball club that hasn't won in my lifetime...
I also remember when 50F was the "jacket" temperature.
I lived in Indianapolis at that time and visited Chicago on the weekends.
There are some great museums there!

 

Heat index between 75 and 85F (instead of 95 to 105F) and zero chance of rain for days in a row, is causing feel good to the point of ambition. Lots of car fix happening. Whatever I missed before I was driving it regularly.
Windshield squirters, a noisy axle bearing, really bad shock absorbers, steering wheel isn't centered...the kind of stuff that you don't notice while it's parked in sick bay.
Busy is good!
Especially when I don't have to satisfy anybody but myself and I can take as long as I want to get it done.
Happy winter!
It's Florida's turn to brag.

 

For a Halloween forecast in northern Illinois, this is brag worthy also.

 

I remember a Halloween in Indianapolis when there was too much snow to trick-or-treat.
Kept falling on my butt too many times to make it to the house next door.
Happy global warming. You might get some candy this year.

ps, I got the axle bearing pressed in, all the details cleaned, and all the parts found. I will re-assemble as soon as I feel well enough to hold a 40 pound hub in place with one hand and fit bolts in with the other hand.

 

If I do anything tomorrow other than making wings for the Cubs game, it'll be raking leaves. Brake jobs and such are done for the year. My neighbor taught me how to use his snowblower yesterday.

 

If I do anything tomorrow other than making wings for the Cubs game, it'll be raking leaves. Brake jobs and such are done for the year. My neighbor taught me how to use his snowblower yesterday.

Ugg, That's awful!
The snowblower, I mean.

Closing out the warmest October on record here.
The winter grass is green.

 

If I do anything tomorrow other than making wings for the Cubs game, it'll be raking leaves. Brake jobs and such are done for the year. My neighbor taught me how to use his snowblower yesterday.

When I bought my first house, the old guy across the street said I could use his blower if I did his driveway first - he just told me 10 times not to go off the driveway and damage any grass. Well, I go walking the blower down his driveway very carefully with my eyes fixed on the pavement looking for the grass edge and the blower was efficiently blowing everything down towards the street. Little did I know his son pulled up and pulled a shovel out of his trunk. Suddenly I hear, "hey, hey hey, stooooooop!" I look up and see some guy shoveling the sidewalk and pointing at his car - I filled his trunk up with snow.

 

And I just finished putting the car back together. 2 hours? Not bad!
It sure goes back together faster than it comes apart!

Oh yeah, I learned not to use red Loc-tite on the axle nut.
It's just going to have to be satisfied with 200 ft-lbs of torque.

So happy the weather has cooled down. Work is still work, but it works so much better without stopping to back down from the edge of heat stroke every 30 or 40 minutes.

Now for a long night of pain, probably followed by sleeping until noon.

 

Oh yeah, I learned not to use red Loc-tite on the axle nut.
It's just going to have to be satisfied with 200 ft-lbs of torque.

FWIW I believe Red ThreadLocker yields at 160°C and fuses at ≈ 200°C which being well below the annealing temp of steel? -- But then perhaps you're concerned with possible damage to lubricants, seals or other polymer components?
Ok! So I'm an automotive idgit (sic) but a curious one

Best regards
HP

 

perhaps you're concerned with possible damage to lubricants, seals or other polymer components?

I used red Loc-tite 5 months ago and found the axle nut was stuck before I applied the finishing torque. It took about 400 to 500 ft-lbs to break the red Loc-tite. Then I cleaned the parts and did it over with a torque wrench at 200 ft-lbs.

But of course I am concerned with the vanishing temperature of lubricants and polymers. I just spent over $100 to get a bearing and have it pressed in with a hydraulic press. I had to drive 30 minutes each way, twice. It took at least 8 hours of disassembly, re-assembly, and "go get it" to install each rear wheel bearing. I don't want to burn up the seals and lube in the bearing and start over when all I have to do is get a 1/2 inch breaker bar and bounce on the handle for a few seconds to get the red Loc-tite to break loose.

 

I use red Loctite for just one thing. I have a Seadoo jet boat and the impellers in the jet pumps are screwed onto the pumps' axles with the red.

The first time I tried to remove one, I didn't know about how critical the heat is and tried to just power it off. Not a good idea. The adhesion is so good that you can actually shear metal off the threads and it will sound like broken glass in the threads. Just a few seconds with the torch – much less than you would use to sweat a copper pipe – and the grinding noise disappeared and the torque was hugely reduced. There are a lot of threads on my impeller, and as I was backing it out I could tell as it cooled off and the torque went way up again. A little more heat and it came right off.

The only other place I've been tempted to use it was on the large bolts that hold a brake caliper to the car. I believe most manufacturers use red Loctite there, with about 125ft-lbs I think. I decided to use blue, in case I'm the next guy that has to remove it. On a newer or expensive car, I might have used red. But with 190K, meh. My brake job may outlive the car.

 

It took about 400 to 500 ft-lbs to break the red Loc-tite.

when all I have to do is get a 1/2 inch breaker bar and bounce on the handle for a few seconds to get the red Loc-tite to break loose.

Good deal! -- 'Tho I'm bound to say, with my 'luck', the fastener would strip or shear as per 'general principles'

No need to laugh! I managed to break a RWD axle shaft (immediately 'inward' of its 'wheel-flange') in an attempt to remove a corrosion-seized rim

Best regards
HP

 

with my 'luck', the fastener would strip or shear as per 'general principles'

Fixing machinery often arrives at, "How hard can I push this?"
Sometimes you just have to decide, "It's either going to loosen or it's going to break, but it has to come out."
You get the right tools and push until you see the result.
If you're lucky, it loosens. If you're not, it breaks. Then you just back up far enough to remove the broken parts and start over.
Twist the head off a 1/2 inch bolt? That's what, "Easy-outs" are for.
Bugger the hole? That's what Helicoils are for.
Busted the half-shaft?
That's what junk yards are for.
I prefer to make a withdrawal from the junk yard.
You might decide to make a deposit.

 

Fixing machinery often arrives at, "How hard can I push this?"
Sometimes you just have to decide, "It's either going to loosen or it's going to break, but it has to come out."
You get the right tools and push until you see the result.
If you're lucky, it loosens. If you're not, it breaks. Then you just back up far enough to remove the broken parts and start over.
Twist the head off a 1/2 inch bolt? That's what, "Easy-outs" are for.
Bugger the hole? That's what Helicoils are for.
Busted the half-shaft?
That's what junk yards are for.
I prefer to make a withdrawal from the junk yard.
You might decide to make a deposit.

Ok then... I'm (sincerely) curious as to how you'd have handled the following situation

My 'time honored' remedy for 'frozen on rims' (i.e. corrosive adhesion of the rim to the 'locating hub' of the axle flange) was (slight) loosening of the 'lug nuts' on the effected wheel followed by operation of the machine in such manner as to produce high torque conditions at the wheels (i.e. rapid acceleration from stops and 'locking' of brakes on clean pavement, etc...) - once having thus 'broken' the rust, the wheel was readily removable in the usual fashion....

Then came the exquisitely annoying day wherein said 'remedy' failed! - (FWIW the vehicle was an old, old, old Chevrolet 3/4 Ton C/10 4x4 - the 'problem wheel' being mounted on the left[port] rear axle shaft) -- I went so far (NPI) as driving more than 200 miles over-laden with a 1 ton (2000lbs) payload, then, failing that, heating the rim and axle-flange to ≈ 1000°F followed within 3 minutes by fully-loaded operation including bringing the machine to 'screeching halts' from 50mph! -- All to no avail

Then I got the 'bright idea' of raising the vehicle overhead and striking the lip of the rim with a sledgehammer from inside (i.e. from the 'differential' side) -- after approximately 20 minutes of such treatment the axle shaft 'snapped' immediately inward of the flange with the result that wheel, drum, Axle flange, etc.. 'slipped the shoes' and went 'waltzing' across the shed
As for myself? Well... I was painfully reminded of my 'workout' with the hammer for a week thereafter - with every breath!

So, assuming the correct solution was to have merely cut the rim off the flange -- at what point should I have realized as much?

With genuine curiosity
HP

 

Ok then... I'm (sincerely) curious as to how you'd have handled the following situation

My 'time honored' remedy for 'frozen on rims' (i.e. corrosive adhesion of the rim to the 'locating hub' of the axle flange) was (slight) loosening of the 'lug nuts' on the effected wheel followed by operation of the machine in such manner as to produce high torque conditions at the wheels (i.e. rapid acceleration from stops and 'locking' of brakes on clean pavement, etc...) - once having thus 'broken' the rust, the wheel was readily removable in the usual fashion....

Then came the exquisitely annoying day wherein said 'remedy' failed! - (FWIW the vehicle was an old, old, old Chevrolet 3/4 Ton C/10 4x4 - the 'problem wheel' being mounted on the left[port] rear axle shaft) -- I went so far (NPI) as driving more than 200 miles over-laden with a 1 ton (2000lbs) payload, then, failing that, heating the rim and axle-flange to ≈ 1000°F followed within 3 minutes by fully-loaded operation including bringing the machine to 'screeching halts' from 50mph! -- All to no avail

Then I got the 'bright idea' of raising the vehicle overhead and striking the lip of the rim with a sledgehammer from inside (i.e. from the 'differential' side) -- after approximately 20 minutes of such treatment the axle shaft 'snapped' immediately inward of the flange with the result that wheel, drum, Axle flange, etc.. 'slipped the shoes' and went 'waltzing' across the shed
As for myself? Well... I was painfully reminded of my 'workout' with the hammer for a week thereafter - with every breath!

So, assuming the correct solution was to have merely cut the rim off the flange -- at what point should I have realized as much?

With genuine curiosity
HP

Raising overhead seems like a mechanical disadvantage. I would have raised it 2 or 3" off the ground and, with a 16 lb sledge in a nice pendulum stroke, hit the rubber of the tire near the tread. Rotate 1/6 turn and repeat. It should pop loose. If that fails and anything breaks, to the junkyard.

 

The only twisting I expected in this thread, is from a tornado.

 

The only twisting I expected in this thread, is from a tornado.

Look at it this way ... ambient humidity caused said rim to rust and get stuck to the locating hob of the axle flange ... so you could say that this conversation is still weather related

 

Ok then... I'm (sincerely) curious as to how you'd have handled the following situation

My 'time honored' remedy for 'frozen on rims' (i.e. corrosive adhesion of the rim to the 'locating hub' of the axle flange) was (slight) loosening of the 'lug nuts' on the effected wheel followed by operation of the machine in such manner as to produce high torque conditions at the wheels (i.e. rapid acceleration from stops and 'locking' of brakes on clean pavement, etc...) - once having thus 'broken' the rust, the wheel was readily removable in the usual fashion....

Then came the exquisitely annoying day wherein said 'remedy' failed! - (FWIW the vehicle was an old, old, old Chevrolet 3/4 Ton C/10 4x4 - the 'problem wheel' being mounted on the left[port] rear axle shaft) -- I went so far (NPI) as driving more than 200 miles over-laden with a 1 ton (2000lbs) payload, then, failing that, heating the rim and axle-flange to ≈ 1000°F followed within 3 minutes by fully-loaded operation including bringing the machine to 'screeching halts' from 50mph! -- All to no avail

Then I got the 'bright idea' of raising the vehicle overhead and striking the lip of the rim with a sledgehammer from inside (i.e. from the 'differential' side) -- after approximately 20 minutes of such treatment the axle shaft 'snapped' immediately inward of the flange with the result that wheel, drum, Axle flange, etc.. 'slipped the shoes' and went 'waltzing' across the shed
As for myself? Well... I was painfully reminded of my 'workout' with the hammer for a week thereafter - with every breath!

So, assuming the correct solution was to have merely cut the rim off the flange -- at what point should I have realized as much?

With genuine curiosity
HP

We really need a funny button.