How to get successful for micro usb replacement.

Thread Starter


Joined May 3, 2016
I begin :)

The reason in thread are discussed not one tablets is because the moderators. You can see the moderator notes in my posts. Anyway.

This with missing tracks is anymore not in me(God, I Love you). It`s about this procedure at all.

I thought about the procedure again and...

What is "broad tip" ? I cannot translate this. If you can attach photo.

I even dont remember if i added more solder in this case. I want only the board to be safe. I will use the temperature and time you tell me - i talk about the heat gun. If i have used solder 99.9% it was 60/40. I think i have enough micro usb ports and if one fails gonna replace it with other.
About the video - i uploaded it now -
P.S i dont know why but now cannot find this video on WWW.


Joined Jun 15, 2013
There is no question that replacing these micro USB connectors can be a pain but it is really not a difficult process. I don't know which method a professional might recommend but I have replaced several successfully. The reason these cause so much trouble is that the electrical connections are tiny gold plated leaves attached to small pads (that are not easily accessible) while the body is a huge metal mass attached to a large area of copper.

I have two different methods that work well for me:
The easiest and lowest risk method is to use Chip Quik removal kit. This allows you to use a small tip iron to replace the lead free solder at each connection with the low melt Chip Quik and then easily slide the connector off.
If you don't have ChipQuik or don't want to use it then traditional rework methods still work. I had my Chip Quik removal kit for several years before I ever tried it as it didn't really seem necessary).

I preheat the board to about 100°C before any attempt to remove the connector. Using just hot air to try to heat the connector body and the ground plane either takes too long or exposes the tracks to too high temperatures almost guaranteeing a lifted track.
Once preheated, I remove the excess solder with solder wick and an iron (screwdriver type tip 1.5 - 3 mm). After adding more flux, I will use the same tip to apply heat to the case tabs for until I see the remaining solder melt and then switch to hot air, concentrating the airflow on the tabs and the connectors and avoid overheating the plastic guts of the connector. If the board has been well preheated the connector will come free in a very short time. It is always a good idea to test the bond by trying to gently slide the connector laterally before picking it up. Lifting it with one or more traces still attached is sure to damage the PCB.
After cleaning and fluxing the pads, I will apply solder past to all pads and place the new connector on the still warm board. Hot air is applied to the entire connector but as soon as the electrical connections reflow, I stop. I use the iron to finish the body to PCB joints.


Joined Apr 28, 2012
Sure they lift off quite easily.

Broad tip - google it

So heres more detail

Put solder on the lugs first, make them hot, then put solder on the pins.
Heat the lugs again, make the pins solder hot again.

It will just lift off.

You need some helping goodies to resolder, a pump, flux, clean the tip completely so it can take on solder from joints. If it fails sometimes you need to apply fresh solder it contains flux, the yellow flux as such is not always strong enough.

And a magnifier 3x or 4x or you get lost. A good point lamp such as COB LEDs on a metal plate.

Solder one lug first checck alignment to the tracks, solder the other lugs, make good full joints.
Then deal with the pins.

When I just need power lines I break out the middle pins....there are no PCB tracks so you cant get off the solder easily.