I realize that it needs to be soldered to the PCB, but after opening can closing the socket about 30 or more times, the lever on the arm slides the contact where the solder meets the leads and cracks the solder joint. I need to mount or drill a whole into the zif socket so it doesn’t wiggle within the PCB holes. I thought this could use these zif sockets as a test socket, but maybe there is something different out there in the market ?

Use epoxy under the socket to secure tight to the pcb and this will reduce solder joint breaks.

 

Yes, I think I need to use a glue and a retaining clip.

 

My suspicion is that the 16 position socket you have puts too much strain on the individual pins. Note that
nsaspook's ZIF sockets are 40 position. Any shear force is spread among all of those pins so each individual pin sees less overall force. Irving's and Lundwall_Paul's suggestions to reinforce the socket itself and remove the strain from the pins are very good suggestions.

 

My suspicion is that the 16 position socket you have puts too much strain on the individual pins. Note that
nsaspook's ZIF sockets are 40 position. Any shear force is spread among all of those pins so each individual pin sees less overall force. Irving's and Lundwall_Paul's suggestions to reinforce the socket itself and remove the strain from the pins are very good suggestions.

I've never had to mickey mouse (with glue or screws) a real 3M ZIF 16 pin socket either.

To the OP. Buy a good socket and be done with it.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/216-3340-00-0602J/95238

 

The OP just needs to buy quality parts or at least something better than the rock-bottom clone junk from China. One quality ZIF from a place like ARIES is all he needs IMO.

While there is no doubt the Aries sockets are a superior, if more expensive, design—I have to add my voice to those saying they’ve never seen a broken solder joint caused by a ZIF socket. And 30 cycles?

There is something wrong that isn’t a matter of the ZIF itself but it hasn’t been possible to work out what that might be since the TS has not shown (did I miss a post?) the actual arrangement he’s working with nor the damage he’s experiencing.

The Aries socket might solve the problem but it is very unlikely to be for the reasons implied by the TS. The Textool or similar socket, even the cheapest of them, shouldn’t be breaking solder joints. It would be good to work out the root cause even if the Aries is used for its virtues instead of something else.

 

While there is no doubt the Aries sockets are a superior, if more expensive, design—I have to add my voice to those saying they’ve never seen a broken solder joint caused by a ZIF socket. And 30 cycles?

There is something wrong that isn’t a matter of the ZIF itself but it hasn’t been possible to work out what that might be since the TS has not shown (did I miss a post?) the actual arrangement he’s working with nor the damage he’s experiencing.

The Aries socket might solve the problem but it is very unlikely to be for the reasons implied by the TS. The Textool or similar socket, even the cheapest of them, shouldn’t be breaking solder joints. It would be good to work out the root cause even if the Aries is used for its virtues instead of something else.

I completely agree but some of the issues the OP says (it's hard to understand exactly what) are happening are internal ZIF socket physical motions as the contact pin clamps down, causing tension to the solder pins during the open and closing. That should not happen and will greatly increase the likelihood of a solder joint failure from twisting motions.