I'm trying to bypass this switch between my 3 phase converter and the motor (for a belt grinder in my workshop)

however I'm unsure how to connect the blue neutral wire

I assume I can just bypass the switch connecting the green, grey, black and brown wires to their counterparts on the converter however I don't know where to connect the blue wire.

In the second photo you can see the connections in the switch I intend to bypass, the blue not having a counterpart after the switch

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Connect each wire going through the switch to whatever the switch connects it to when the switch is in the ON position.

 

Probably the green wire is a frame ground connection on the grinder motor.
Now for the questions: The photos do not help very much, at least not as I am able to view them.
My suggestion is to connect three bypass "jumper" wires across the switch, and leave the wires in their original positions on each side of the switch.
With the power disconnected from the grinder, you should be able to identify both sides of each switch connection by use of a continuity tester, or an ohm meter with a low resistance range.
For the connection to the 3-phase converter, you will need to arrange the three line connections to provide the correct rotation of the grinder motor. AND you will need to verify that the green wire is the safety "ground" connection tying the grinder frame to the earth ground of your converter.

 

I'm trying to bypass this switch between my 3 phase converter and the motor (for a belt grinder in my workshop)

however I'm unsure how to connect the blue neutral wire

I assume I can just bypass the switch connecting the green, grey, black and brown wires to their counterparts on the converter however I don't know where to connect the blue wire.

In the second photo you can see the connections in the switch I intend to bypass, the blue not having a counterpart after the switch

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Looks like to me you tape off the wire and not use it. Because it looks like to me just a neutral wire for a power indicator on the switch.

 

NORMALLY a green wire is used for a frame ground connection, not as a power connection,I seriously suggest a continuity check before giving somebody a serious shock, or killing them.

 

NORMALLY a green wire is used for a frame ground connection, not as a power connection,I seriously suggest a continuity check before giving somebody a serious shock, or killing them.

It also has a yellow stripe, which is reserved for GND conductor only!.

 

I'm trying to bypass this switch between my 3 phase converter and the motor (for a belt grinder in my workshop)

however I'm unsure how to connect the blue neutral wire

I assume I can just bypass the switch connecting the green, grey, black and brown wires to their counterparts on the converter however I don't know where to connect the blue wire.

In the second photo you can see the connections in the switch I intend to bypass, the blue not having a counterpart after the switch

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It looks like an undervoltage release switch.
3 jumper connections 3-4, 5-6, 7-8.
And remove connection 4-2

 

The three 'phase' wires are the Brown (L1) Black (L2) and Grey (L3) they can be connected across where the switch was. The Green/Yellow goes to the Earth (or ground) connection and must continue through to all ground points. The Blue Neutral wire is only required for single phase... not required to run a 3 phase motor.
In Australia we would have the colours Red (L1) White (L2) and Blue (L3) while our Neutral would be Black.
Using any one phase and the Neutral will give you 240V single phase. while using the 3 (and No Neutral) gives you 415V 3 phase.
If the motor turns the wrong way when started, swapping any 2 phase wires will reverse direction.
3 phase wires should always be wired as per the colours above, with care taken that a Red/White/Blue connection has a BLACK Neutral, while a Brown/Black/Grey combination uses a BLUE Neutral

 

Really, if the TS has access to a multimeter then it would be simple. And even simpler if there is no need to remove the switch that is being bypassed. Carefully remove the wire from the T1 position and then loosen the screw for the L1 position and insert the T1 wire into the terminal along with the L1 wire, which should remain in the L1 terminal. Then loosen the T2 terminal screw and insert that wire into the L2 position after loosening the L2 terminal screw. Then do the same with the wire from the L3 terminal, installing it in the L3 terminal along with keeping the L3 wire there.

As for the blue wire, it certainly seems that a great deal of description has been left out. So really all that has been offered is a string of best guesses based on only a very small bit of the needed information.
The appearance is that the one photo is of connections to either a switch or a contactor, and the blue wire connects to one side of the operating coil. The other photo sowing a hand with some wires, and some other device with a large assortment of wires, really needs an accurate description of what it is and what is connected to it, to provide any value at all.

Given that we have no hint as to what is in the other photo, I made the guess that it was the L terminals and T terminals that needed changing. There are all sorts of connections shown in the second photo and not one word of explanation provided.

Also, my guess in post 3 can cause a problem. Do not follow it!