I need help with a basic circuit that I’ve been working on consisting of 2 NC switches that I’ve been using to power the coils on 2 24v sp relays individually.

Through the contacts I’ve wired in series an led that comes on when both switches are in there dead state.

I also want to have individual leds for each of the switches I tried to use the NC contact on the relays but end up with one of the leds permanently live as it’s fed from the 24 supply for the series circuit as described before

any ideas please

 

I need help with a basic circuit that I’ve been working on consisting of 2 NC switches that I’ve been using to power the coils on 2 24v sp relays individually.
Through the contacts I’ve wired in series an led that comes on when both switches are in there dead state.

Is this the circuit as is now?

And is this what you are trying to achieve?

 

Not quite its pretty close, 24v common rly1 -NO - common rly2 - NO Feeding LED

 

why don't you draw a circuit and explain what is it that you really want to accomplish?is this a homework? it sure sounds like it.

 

Not quite its pretty close, 24v common rly1 -NO - common rly2 - NO Feeding LED

That's what I show. The relay contacts are shown closed as the relay coils are energized through the NC switches.

 

Using the schematics in post #2 as examples, post your own schematic showing how you have things wired now. Remember to include a unique reference designator for each component to facilitate discussion.

ak

 

I need help with a basic circuit that I’ve been working on consisting of 2 NC switches that I’ve been using to power the coils on 2 24v sp relays individually.

Through the contacts I’ve wired in series an led that comes on when both switches are in there dead state.

I also want to have individual leds for each of the switches I tried to use the NC contact on the relays but end up with one of the leds permanently live as it’s fed from the 24 supply for the series circuit as described before

any ideas please

Next time, please post a more descriptive title than just "Help Needed".
Something like "Help needed with 2 switches and 2 relays" would give the casual browser more information.

 

SWITCHES DO NOT HAVE A "DEAD STATE"!!!! a switch is either OPEN or it is CLOSED. In the OPEN position the bridge is up and no electrical current can cross. In the CLOSED position the bridge has closed the gap and electricity may pass thru in either direction, as is appropriate for where it is going.

 

I would like the LEDs in series with the switches to be able to be off when the LED on the relay contacts is powered.

 

This is what I make of your circuit:

This is drawn without the negative lines shown. Rather, the negative is shown as common ground points (the downward triangles). Your drawing shows the push buttons closed (pressed) but the relays are shown open. I've taken the liberty to show the switches in their disengaged states, same for the relays (in NC positions). In this configuration no LED will be lit. First, the LED's are backwards. Second, unless the LED's have their own built in current limiting, AND assuming proper orientation, the LED's can't light because the current is reversed. Your drawing also doesn't label components so I can't say 'If you press SW1 - - - " without having to paint a picture verbally as to which is which. Disregarding labeling, under no circumstances will any LED's light up.

Give me twelve minutes and I'll post a corrected drawing with labels.

 

Now ASSUMING you know how much current you want through the LED's (D1 - D3) the resistors (R1 - R3) will need to be properly sized for the amount of current AND the wattage they will handle.

In this configuration, pressing and holding SW1 will activate K1 and light D1. Pressing and holding SW2 will activate K2 and light D2. Pressing and holding SW1 & SW2 will activate K1 & K2 and will light D3.

LED's MUST have current limiting or they will burn out faster than you can let go of the button. Think of them as a flash bulb without the resistors. Also note the simplicity of following along with the diagram by eliminating all the negative lead wiring you show in your drawing. Don't know where you got that drawing from but it's wrong wrong wrong. LED's backwards, no current limiting resistors (unless the LED's have their own internal current limiting), push button switches shown pressed but relays NOT shown energized. We have no information on the LED's at all. We can't begin to guess what the forward voltage is on each. Color would help but doesn't specifically answer that question.

Sometimes the harsh truth is the best way to learn from your mistakes. None of us are here to bash you. Rather, educating you and helping you solve problems is our goal.

 

Couple followup points: If you don't want to hold down a button then you need to draw a different type of switch. A toggle is a common type of switch that can be flipped and it will stay ON or OFF, depending on how you switch it. Also, your source of power is unidentified. If it's battery powered and you want only one LED lit, you will be wasting power because when one LED is lit its associated relay (K1 or K2) will also be energized and drawing power. The battery will run down much quicker. If you have a lines powered power supply that supplies 24VDC then you have no time limits on how long you can light the LED's.

I've assumed 24VDC. If you are using 24VAC then you run the risk of blowing the LED's because they don't handle much reverse current. Since AC is always switching the direction of the current half the time they will light and half the time they won't. You won't be able to see any difference, but the LED's will. With too much reverse current they will blow. With too much reverse voltage they will blow. So I've assumed you're talking about a DC power source, be it a power supply or a battery.

 

The circuit in post #11 doesn't address the issue stated in post #9.

 

would like the LEDs in series with the switches to be able to be off when the LED on the relay contacts is powered.

If they are in series with the switches, they are ON when the relay is activated.

To have them OFF when the relay is activated, the should be in parallel with the switches, but, depending on the current required by the relay and the LED, that could end up activating the relay.

 

Just a guess but I would assume the OP wants the two LEDs to be off until the switch is pushed.

IE: No buttons pushed no LEDs lit.

Both buttons pushed both LEDs off and the one connected to the relay contacts = on.

 

Just a guess but I would assume the OP wants the two LEDs to be off until the switch is pushed.

He says the opposite:

I would like the LEDs in series with the switches to be able to be off when the LED on the relay contacts is powered.

 

Just a WAG based on the OP's circuit where the LED turns "on" when the button is pressed.

And I assumed it should remain on until the other button is pressed as well.

The OP can clarify.

 

The switches are normally closed per post #1 and as shown in post #9.

 

The switches are normally closed per post #1 and as shown in post #9.

Right you are, so I'm guilty of skimming and using Tony's post as the example.

 

I would like the LEDs in series with the switches to be able to be off when the LED on the relay contacts is powered.

This is what I come up with which might be what the TS is trying to achieve.
Added diodes D1 and D2. Is that cheating?
R2 and R4 would need to be 20% or less the resistance value of the relay coils to actually work. Not efficient.