The jack plug could house R1 and J1 something like this :
View attachment 130852
Make sure you identify the pinout of J1 correctly.

Here's a layout guide for the adapter part. It's not critical. Depending on the physical size of the components you source, you may be able to make the layout more compact than this example :
If you're new to Veroboard, the components go on the top of the board and their legs are soldered to the tracks on the underside of the board. In this pic, regard the board as transparent. Observe the correct polarity of the 100uF electrolytic cap if used. This cap should have a 16V rating or greater.
View attachment 130853

Edit:
No on/off switch is needed. When the jack plug is disconnected from the guitar the current draw is zero (apart from the odd microamp of leakage ).

Alright I guess I can get some of that board and build this into a pedal enclosure, what is the value of the stripey thing in the jack? and on the board? what is that semi-circle shaped object in the jack? I can order parts and solder them together, that's all I know, if the circuit is just a few caps, maybe a hand wired sketch is in order for me to "get it" either way thanks! why don't you go into business? state to players around their world that their volume controls are faulty haha! I personally think they are anyway.. is there any way to just build this into a pedal enclosure and use a normal cable or is that pushing it too far? I feel like putting this into a "mooer" sized pedal with 9v power etc.

Nobody's going to pay $1000 (Retail) for the ultimate tone amplifier when an FM transmitter on their belt will do the same job for half the price. That's why my design is not available in public. It's bleeping brilliant, but the economics of the market place will not support production line quantities.

Pretty much, after learning about the transmitter the only reason I want a cable is because I feel the transmitter is overkill for casual open mic gigs etc yet I still want to retain sound.

 

what is the value of the stripey thing in the jack?

That is R1, with a value of 2.7kΩ. A 1/10W or 1/8W rating will suffice. Look at the post #7 circuit.

and on the board?

That is R2 with a value of 3.9kΩ (1/10W or 1/8W). [Edit: Oops. The colour coding in the pic is wrong. The bands should be orange, white, red].

what is that semi-circle shaped object in the jack?

That is the j-FET (2N3819 or J113 type). Download the datasheet for whatever FET you get, so that you can verify the pinout.

is there any way to just build this into a pedal enclosure and use a normal cable

Not with my circuit. The j-FET and R1 need to be at the guitar end of the cable.
If you do build this I'd advise first doing a prototype with a bit of cheap cable, rather than chopping up an expensive cable. The jack plug at the guitar end of course needs to be one with a removable barrel.

 

That is R1, with a value of 2.7kΩ. A 1/10W or 1/8W rating will suffice. Look at the post #7 circuit.

That is R2 with a value of 3.9kΩ (1/10W or 1/8W). [Edit: Oops. The colour coding in the pic is wrong. The bands should be orange, white, red].

That is the j-FET (2N3819 or J113 type). Download the datasheet for whatever FET you get, so that you can verify the pinout.

Not with my circuit. The j-FET and R1 need to be at the guitar end of the cable.
If you do build this I'd advise first doing a prototype with a bit of cheap cable, rather than chopping up an expensive cable. The jack plug at the guitar end of course needs to be one with a removable barrel.

Alright yeah of course make up a prototype first, I have an idea, I could put the large part into a "mooer size" effect pedal enclosure and drill a jack socket input/output, to use in conjunction with the cable, I still don't get it, maybe I'm stupid but I don't know what to buy, I'm more familiar with hand wiring but I could use the board also.

I just wish there was an easier way, I know science could make it happen, we just don't have the knowledge.

 

I'm more familiar with hand wiring but I could use the board also.

There are so few components that you could eliminate the Veroboard and simply wire the components together or use 'chocolate-block' type connectors for them.
For a prototype you could also eliminate the 100uF capacitor. That would leave you with the following shopping list of through-hole (not surface mount) components :-
1 off 2.7k 1/8W or 1/4W resistor,
1 off 3.9k 1/8W or 1/4W resistor,
1 off j-FET (2N3819 or J113),
1 off 1uF (or could be reduced to 220nF if a slight reduction in the bass extent to ~15Hz is acceptable) plastic film capacitor,
1 off 100nF plastic film capacitor,
9V battery,
Connectors for battery,
Enclosure for battery and components,
Jack plug with removable barrel, to house R1 and J1.
Jack plugs/sockets if you want, for the enclosure.

 

There are so few components that you could eliminate the Veroboard and simply wire the components together or use 'chocolate-block' type connectors for them.
For a prototype you could also eliminate the 100uF capacitor. That would leave you with the following shopping list of through-hole (not surface mount) components :-
1 off 2.7k 1/8W or 1/4W resistor,
1 off 3.9k 1/8W or 1/4W resistor,
1 off j-FET (2N3819 or J113),
1 off 1uF (or could be reduced to 220nF if a slight reduction in the bass extent to ~15Hz is acceptable) plastic film capacitor,
1 off 100nF plastic film capacitor,
9V battery,
Connectors for battery,
Enclosure for battery and components,
Jack plug with removable barrel, to house R1 and J1.
Jack plugs/sockets if you want, for the enclosure.

Thank you, okay cool I have noticed other similar circuits of this design around the web also, in saying that I have also found a newly released "cable" which simply contains a micro buffer in it's guitar side 1/4' jack housing, it is powered by two button cell batteries.. http://rmtonetech.com/

A great and new product however in saying that I actually dislike using batteries and think that the phantom powered circuit we are discussing is a better option and I have the ultimate idea for it, you know that part in the 1/4' jack housing? build that into a 1/4' adaptor, then the pedal itself and adaptor could be used with any guitar cable of choice! that would be far superior to even that new product, not to mention you don't have to cut up your own lead from it and even if you did you still don't need to replace batteries.

I can't say when I will get around to doing this up, so as of now this thread may kind of die off, either way I have learnt a lot and it has been progressive.

 

you know that part in the 1/4' jack housing? build that into a 1/4' adaptor, then the pedal itself and adaptor could be used with any guitar cable of choice!

Good idea, if you can find a 1/4" female to 1/4" male adaptor with accessible space inside . It does mean, however, extra bulk at the guitar end.
If you're not happy building this gizmo yourself, perhaps an electronics guy at your local Maker Space would build it for you (and might even have components to hand).

you still don't need to replace batteries.

Yes you do. The adapter at the Amp end needs a PP3 (which should last ~200-300 hours in use).

 

Here's a (sort of) related article - might be of interest:

http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/