My point was there are practical exceptions. refrigerators are different.
Dedicated circuits are required by the National Electrical Code (Canada Included) for major electrical appliances such as refrigerators, stoves, washers, dryers, space heaters, and more. They ensure enough power is available so that appliances can operate safely, without overloading the system.
I always observe the above according to code as I am obliged to!
The example I showed earlier would cause trivial effect if the primary one tripped.
Max.

NONE of the places that I have worked o are new enogh to have had that code requirement in place when they were built.

 

NONE of the places that I have worked o are new enogh to have had that code requirement in place when they were built.

But we are not discussing the past.
My first home here had knob and tube wiring, no one would dream of installing that now!
The OP required instructions on a present anticipated installation!
Max.

 

But we are not discussing the past.
My first home here had knob and tube wiring, no one would dream of installing that now!
The OP required instructions on a present anticipated installation!
Max.

I am thinking that the TS is intending to do this on a house that is not totally new.

 

One important thing I haven't seen anyone address is the ground wire, other than to say "Black to hot, White to neutral and Green (or bare) to ground" is that a good and proper ground is necessary. I have a jetted tub that was installed without GFCI's. Both the pump and heater had their own GFCI underneath the tub in the mechanical closet. So seeing there was hot, neutral and ground, I installed GFCI's. When I pushed the "TEST" button neither GFCI would trip (shut off). I followed the ground wire back to where it was grounded, not in the breaker panel (1965 home). Instead it was grounded to the mast where the power came into the home. That was not a good ground. The issue was with the mast that went through the roof to the meter, then into the house. In the meter box the upper mast was not bonded to the lower part of the mast feed that went to the breaker panel. To rectify that I had to drive an 8 foot copper plated steel rod into the ground near the mast and ground both the upper and lower lines. This has resolved my problem. Hence, the need for a good and proper ground, not just one that is "There".

 

Post #9 points out the Test button which would show that kind of thing up.
Max.

 

Not sure if it matters but where I live, GFCI breakers (not outlets) are obsolete. Any new installation needs to be AFCI, arc fault circuit interrupter. This includes GF protection and adds arc “protection”, which can be a nuisance. Lots of things arc a little when you plug them in.

 

Not sure if it matters but where I live, GFCI breakers (not outlets) are obsolete. Any new installation needs to be AFCI, arc fault circuit interrupter. This includes GF protection and adds arc “protection”, which can be a nuisance. Lots of things arc a little when you plug them in.

The "arc fault" breakers fad has passed through Michigan as well. But then it was discovered thata number of correctly functioning common appliances would trip them repeatedly. CLEARLY that bit of regulation was implemented by folks unwilling to consider the secondary results of their actions. How many times have there actually been "arc faults" that caused problems? It seems to have been a solution desperately searching for a problem. And a quite expensive one at that.