OK, so the resistance does not switch to some low value. Now you need to do that same test with the meter set to measure resistance in ohms.
BUT FIRST another simple check, if you can access the terminals of the main power switch. Connect one of the meter probes to both flat pins of the power plug, not the round ground pin. Then probe the terminals on the power switch. At some point there should be some reading less than the open circuit reading, unless the receiver has only remote control of the power function.
Also, check for some connection between the power plug and the fuse on the power circuit board. At least one of the pins on the board should connect to the fuse.
One more question: does the power board, have on it, or connected to it, a transformer?? Most stereo receivers of the older vintage have a power transformer. That will be a good clue as to what we are dealing with.

Thank you

I'll read through everything and answer everything. First I want to say that I thought I was measuring the resistance in ohms. There was an ohm symbol on the screen. The meter said 0L.

 

Thank you

I'll read through everything and answer everything. First I want to say that I thought I was measuring the resistance in ohms. There was an ohm symbol on the screen. The meter said 0L.

The "OL" indicates there is no connection between your two test leads - infinite resistance.

 

Pictures will help a lot.
Show us a picture of your testmeter.
Show us a picture of the insides of the Kenwood so we see how clean/dirty it is.

 

I'm in the middle of changing out some computers. I've temporarily lost the ability to provide a drawing from this machine. I'll see if I can upload a diagram of what's going on when you check for continuity from the two prongs of the power plug. From what I've read it sounds like you have 1) a blown fuse - or 2) a bad switch - or 3) a bad transformer. But there could be other issues as well.

 

OK, on the other machine.

Please note that this is just a guess as to what you have. Nevertheless it should help you understand what you're reading when you check for resistance across the two pins of the pug (not counting the round ground pin if you have one).

In this drawing there are four scenario's that can be the cause of the problem. Understand this is just guesswork so it doesn't necessarily mean it's what you have. But performing the four tests below will help us narrow down where you're having issues. Set your meter to read ohms and touch the two leads of the meter together to make sure you are reading some very low resistance. It's normal to see 0.2 to 0.5Ω or even a little higher. You're reading the lead wire resistance, which for the sake of testing - is unimportant. Just as long as you don't see "OL" when you touch the two leads together. Next check for resistance between the two pins as described. With the switch OFF you should see "OL". With the switch ON you should read some more significant resistance than the test lead resistance. I chose 200Ω for the sake of telling you to expect some sort of resistance value above the test lead reading. IF the switch is on and you get "OL" then one of the three scenario's with the red arrows suggests a potential fault location. It could be a blown fuse - even if the fuse looks good, provided you can remove it and examine it. If you can remove it then check it with the meter still in OHMS mode. You should read just about the same resistance you got when you touched the two test leads together. This indicates a good fuse. A second point of potential issue is a bad switch. When the switch is in the ON position you should read 200Ω (this example only - your actual reading will vary). If you still get an OL and the switch is not the problem then the next likely candidate would be the transformer. Or potentially the wires going to the transformer, which I did not draw.

To recap:
Pin to Pin = 200Ω there is nothing wrong with the fuse, switch or transformer (or wiring to it)
Pin to Pin = OL then the fuse may be blown. The switch may be bad. The transformer may be bad (or the wiring to it)

It's really quite simple once you understand what you're looking for. Keep in mind I show you a transformer in your power supply. This is quite common, but not necessarily going to be the case with your system. Remember, this is just guesswork on my part.

 

Try unplugging and replugging any connectors. AV receivers are unreliable enough already, and sitting outside won't have helped. Check for cold solder joints around relays and transformers and connectors; maybe a marginal connection turned bad with added moisture.

 

Thank you

I'll read through everything and answer everything. First I want to say that I thought I was measuring the resistance in ohms. There was an ohm symbol on the screen. The meter said 0L.

OK, if the meter displayed "OL", you WERE measuring ohms, or at least trying to measure ohms. I got confused when you had mentioned the buzzer mode.
It is possible for a piece of equipment to have a failed power cord, if the cord has been pulled many times, instead of the plug being pulled. It is a failure worth checking for because it is easy to fix. And if moisture got into the plug it could have a corrosion failure. OR it could be OK.
And we still need to know if the receiver has a power transformer. That will be a fair sized part that is quite heavy. Actually, a picture with the top removed will tall us quite a bit.

 

It is possible for a piece of equipment to have a failed power cord, if the cord has been pulled many times, instead of the plug being pulled.

That's one I didn't think of. Yes, the power cord could be bad as well.

 

We still don't know if this receiver has a switching mode power supply or a transformer /rectifier type of supply. and if it has been stored outside there is always the chance that an insect has got into the power switch and blocked the contacts.
As the TS has stated, with the thing not showing any signs of life at all, the other signal connections are not involved, and so are not suspect.
The initial suspects for a totally dead receiver are in the mains input circuit, after which the power supply portion would be checked. So at this point the checking needs to look at the mains connections, the AC power switch, and any series fuse device. A visual inspection of a fuse may not be adequate, they can fail and still appear OK, an ohm meter check is what is required. ALL of the fuses should be checked if it is not totally clear which is the mains fuse.