I found this forum looking for answers about a Ryobi 40volt situation I had ...great people here! helpful!

The current doors on my ford are the cranky crank hit your chin on steering wheel, plus doors are rusted out.

I was able to find awesome doors, but they are Full power doors for everything...

All I want to do is just buy a basic relay and fuse, find my power, perhaps use the trucks window switch and have window go up and down.

Don't care about power locks...mirrors or such....don't care about driver door being able to put down pass door window...

Any idea's or perhaps a diagram of how I need to properly wire this up?

 

It really depends on the year of your ford truck. Later models the window motors are powered by the body controller.

 

If you can get any pictures of the motors or any name plates with details please.

 

I found this forum looking for answers about a Ryobi 40volt situation I had ...great people here! helpful!

The current doors on my ford are the cranky crank hit your chin on steering wheel, plus doors are rusted out.

I was able to find awesome doors, but they are Full power doors for everything...

All I want to do is just buy a basic relay and fuse, find my power, perhaps use the trucks window switch and have window go up and down.

Don't care about power locks...mirrors or such....don't care about driver door being able to put down pass door window...

Any idea's or perhaps a diagram of how I need to properly wire this up?

On some you can wire up your own switch, but I suppose this would vary with the make and model of the car.

Some will have a built in control module, but you can wire up the actuator yourself if you wanted to. Just have to find out what kind of actuator you have and see what terminals power it to get the window up, and to get the window to go down.

 

Hi ya all!! Also posed this question on a ford forum... I thought I'd need a relay and fuse. But it looks like I can do just a 30amp fuse near battery and run wire to the main switch grid panel in the driver's door and go from there. Now I'm looking for a wire diagram to take the wires from driver door and run them to pass door so I can control that as well. It's going to boil down to a really good wire diagram for a 2002 ford F350 basic cab/chas truck at the driver's door. Thought in the back of my mind..."relay" makes it so that there's not a draw at ALL times...right? so where would I put the relay? Actually, I just did a relay...was it on a golf cart? I think it came built in with a fuse set up!! umm any education anyone can give here? I know that this is a 30amp deal on this ford door set up! Trying to remember here...I think the relay was for the lights on the golf cart...a short lead came from battery to this relay then almost right away it went to (on that) it was a 10amp fuse...then to switch then that operated the lights ...that sounds right...right ??? how does that relay know it's triggered to open when the switch is turned on? I'm thinking now I'd be better with the direct wire relays that are used on winches? That relay or drain protector is one wire in one wire out...more like a one way resistor than a relay....anyone following my bird brain thinking here...I'm not smart in this field ...I'm great with mechanic's...but learning cuz this electrical mixes in A LOT with mechanical these days!! I can't see where a window motor, door locks or mirror adjuster would pose a "drain" unless the button-switch was stuck? but they say...safe than sorry?? Again thoughts and learning accepted! thanks!

 

It really depends on the year of your ford truck. Later models the window motors are powered by the body controller.

U are right! Another truck I had ..... all the junk was controlled through the GEM...body controller....umm? this is a basic roll windows down cab chas truck...the doors however came from a fancy model ford truck...not sure of the year...umm.. I'm really gonna need a good wire diagram of the stuff in the drivers door.............what the heck they thinkin' adding windows in the main brain of the truck?.....beyond me the purpose of that....some safety thing? ...U know...I did just look at a diagram...but it was not the best...if I recall the "controller" was BEFORE my issue...the 30amp came out from there....so I'm actually not in trouble, cuz the wires do not go back and loop through the "controller"...thinking out loud here is all

 

The very first step, if the doors actually fit, Then a study of the wiring inside the drivers side door. Some models have switches for rear door windows also. The next step is to get connectors to match the door side connections, because otherwise the project will be a pain.

 

The very first step, if the doors actually fit, Then a study of the wiring inside the drivers side door. Some models have switches for rear door windows also. The next step is to get connectors to match the door side connections, because otherwise the project will be a pain.

Yes sir the doors fit...that much I've gotten cleared away! Thankfully the truck the doors came off of...no rear door windows. as for connections ...according to one post in ford forum, I can put a 30ampfuse(Cbreaker) at bat...run one wire to inside driver door...it will run all my power stuff off that main control...but the kicker will be running the 5 or more wires from driver door to pass door to have that work from the driver door panel.. I'm now looking for a better wire diagram of all in driver door..... as I just posted else where here...perhaps a one way resistor would be a good idea to prevent any "drain"...there should not be...but...?? kinda like what's used on winches...?? Again, still in the investigative stages right now....thank U!

 

Trying to remember all the different things I get into...I think this was what I used for the golf cart...and it was a 30 amp not a 10amp the 10amp was in a Yamaha golf cart...this 30 relay/fuse from Amazon that I used was in a Club Car.
30 Amp Relay Wiring - Search Images (bing.com)
so I thought I'd have to use something similar for the Ford door deal...???? not sure I follow the "86" lead, plus I did not really study how switch was tied in?? Just throwing things that are in my head out in the open here
Amazon.com: APIELE 4 Pin Relay 12V 40A Relay with 30A Fuse DC SPST Fused Relay Normally Open 1NO with 14 AWG Harness Socket for Car Truck Motor : Automotive 86 is the ground coming back from the lights? umm? not what the above link said?
I KNOW I KNOW....this guy(me) is on several topic's...but it's how my brain works..probably not too well...lol... Was just thinking that if the Ford Door set up needed a RELAY and fuse...this would be a way to do it? but again in the ford forum the guy only mentions and uses just a 30 amp fuse....perhaps the door switch control panel has relays in it? I doubt it....umm?????????????????????????

 

Most power windows need to have at least the accessory position selected for the windows to move. That prevents the constant drain problem.
And the passenger door needs connections for local operation +12 and ground, as well as the two motor connections for the driver control. UNLESS the driver switches can disable the passenger window control.
Certainly you need that circuit drawing.

 

Most power windows need to have at least the accessory position selected for the windows to move. That prevents the constant drain problem.
And the passenger door needs connections for local operation +12 and ground, as well as the two motor connections for the driver control. UNLESS the driver switches can disable the passenger window control.
Certainly you need that circuit drawing.

FUNNY!! but GREAT!!! look what I found as U were posting this!!!!!!!!!
POWER WINDOWS – Ford Cab & Chassis F350 Super Duty 2002 – SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS – Wiring diagrams for cars (portal-diagnostov.com)

 

Hi ya all!! Also posed this question on a ford forum... I thought I'd need a relay and fuse. But it looks like I can do just a 30amp fuse near battery and run wire to the main switch grid panel in the driver's door and go from there. Now I'm looking for a wire diagram to take the wires from driver door and run them to pass door so I can control that as well. It's going to boil down to a really good wire diagram for a 2002 ford F350 basic cab/chas truck at the driver's door. Thought in the back of my mind..."relay" makes it so that there's not a draw at ALL times...right? so where would I put the relay? Actually, I just did a relay...was it on a golf cart? I think it came built in with a fuse set up!! umm any education anyone can give here? I know that this is a 30amp deal on this ford door set up! Trying to remember here...I think the relay was for the lights on the golf cart...a short lead came from battery to this relay then almost right away it went to (on that) it was a 10amp fuse...then to switch then that operated the lights ...that sounds right...right ??? how does that relay know it's triggered to open when the switch is turned on? I'm thinking now I'd be better with the direct wire relays that are used on winches? That relay or drain protector is one wire in one wire out...more like a one way resistor than a relay....anyone following my bird brain thinking here...I'm not smart in this field ...I'm great with mechanic's...but learning cuz this electrical mixes in A LOT with mechanical these days!! I can't see where a window motor, door locks or mirror adjuster would pose a "drain" unless the button-switch was stuck? but they say...safe than sorry?? Again thoughts and learning accepted! thanks!

Oh yes a fuse is always a given on most electric stuff.
Also, you probably do not need a relay unless your switch is limited, and the switch probably has to be a momentary type so when you release it the voltage stops getting to the door lock (or window motor).
The switch might have to be a DPDT momentary with center off. I think that would be harder to do with a relay anyway. That's unless the door lock or motor has two sets of coils that are not wired together in any way. If it has separate coils for lock and unlock, then you can use two push button switches which would be easy to set up. If you have to reverse the voltage to unlock for example, then you need a DPDT momentary switch with center off. That means when you push it one way the voltage is applied as a certain polarity, then when you push it the other way the voltage is reversed. When you release it, the power is cut off.

 

OK, now you have the diagram and it gives connector position letters so you are all set. Now the really hard part will be creating that connection cable between the doors.
SO HERE IS A SUGGESTION: check with wherever you got the doors and see if they will sell you the wire harness. EVEN if it is damaged it will be a very good investment because the Ford designers designed it to be able to make all of those turns behind the dashboard.