First Post - Greetings All!
I've had my hands in electricity for over 50 years, yes, shocked a few times..
Anyway, I'm responsible for a fireworks show each year on the Fourth of July.
The launch system is all hard wired and this year I'm building a new launch box that will have indicator LED lights letting me know I have a solid circuit ready for firing by running a small voltage (3 volts DC) out to the firework element (not enough to spark). After sending higher voltage (120 volts AC) out to burn the element (igniting the firework) the LED will now be off since it was dependent on that circuit.
I have a row of Double Throw-Double Pole switches with a LED just above each switch. Each switch is a ON-ON configuration with one side being MOMENTARY. The 3 volts is wired to the ON side of the switch, when you pull back the spring loaded toggle switch the 120 volt side is activated (and disabling the 3 volts) and when you let go of the switch it springs back to the 3 volt side. Here is a worded schematic. Sorry, not any good with computer pics and loading and stuff)
3 Volts (+) -------------( ON ---- ON ) -----------------LED-------------------------------------------FIREWORK ELEMENT
^ ^
( double throw-double pole switch ) ^ ^
^ ^
120 Volts (+) ----------( ON ----- MOMENTARY) ------------------------------------^ ^
^
^
^
3 Volts (-), 120 Volts(-) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, so my issue is about 50% of the time my LED permanently blows and also about 50% of the time my DTDP switch shorts out internally.
I've used the same wiring configuration with 2 separate switches and the LED survives each time but I do not want to have to pull 2 switches for each firework. It may be that I just need a better insulated DPDT switch. These are rated 250 volts 2 amps, 120 volts 5 amps so I think I'm good there.
I'm stumped on why my configuration works about 50% of the time with the LED surviving. I know running AC and DC current through the same line could probably be a problem but if it were the problem I'd probably be getting 100% failure.
My thoughts as to the issue, the direct short at the firework yields such unstability and abruptness in the flow of electricity it literally jumps around inside the DTDP switch and finds the other low voltage side sending current (ac) out to the LED.
I'll figure something out. Just putting it here in hopes someone sees an easy fix with out changing the LED status light and the spring loaded toggle switch. Like I said it might just need a better insulated switch, but I really like these miniature ones. Thanks to all who are at least intrigued. ALL insights into this are encouraged and welcomed.
I've had my hands in electricity for over 50 years, yes, shocked a few times..
Anyway, I'm responsible for a fireworks show each year on the Fourth of July.
The launch system is all hard wired and this year I'm building a new launch box that will have indicator LED lights letting me know I have a solid circuit ready for firing by running a small voltage (3 volts DC) out to the firework element (not enough to spark). After sending higher voltage (120 volts AC) out to burn the element (igniting the firework) the LED will now be off since it was dependent on that circuit.
I have a row of Double Throw-Double Pole switches with a LED just above each switch. Each switch is a ON-ON configuration with one side being MOMENTARY. The 3 volts is wired to the ON side of the switch, when you pull back the spring loaded toggle switch the 120 volt side is activated (and disabling the 3 volts) and when you let go of the switch it springs back to the 3 volt side. Here is a worded schematic. Sorry, not any good with computer pics and loading and stuff)
3 Volts (+) -------------( ON ---- ON ) -----------------LED-------------------------------------------FIREWORK ELEMENT
^ ^
( double throw-double pole switch ) ^ ^
^ ^
120 Volts (+) ----------( ON ----- MOMENTARY) ------------------------------------^ ^
^
^
^
3 Volts (-), 120 Volts(-) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, so my issue is about 50% of the time my LED permanently blows and also about 50% of the time my DTDP switch shorts out internally.
I've used the same wiring configuration with 2 separate switches and the LED survives each time but I do not want to have to pull 2 switches for each firework. It may be that I just need a better insulated DPDT switch. These are rated 250 volts 2 amps, 120 volts 5 amps so I think I'm good there.
I'm stumped on why my configuration works about 50% of the time with the LED surviving. I know running AC and DC current through the same line could probably be a problem but if it were the problem I'd probably be getting 100% failure.
My thoughts as to the issue, the direct short at the firework yields such unstability and abruptness in the flow of electricity it literally jumps around inside the DTDP switch and finds the other low voltage side sending current (ac) out to the LED.
I'll figure something out. Just putting it here in hopes someone sees an easy fix with out changing the LED status light and the spring loaded toggle switch. Like I said it might just need a better insulated switch, but I really like these miniature ones. Thanks to all who are at least intrigued. ALL insights into this are encouraged and welcomed.