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Perhaps some clarification is warranted. Beginners on electronics? If so, what type of electronics are you looking to do: repair of existing equipment, design of gadgets using basic parts (transistors and passive components) or using microcontrollers?
The intersection points among the choices above are a soldering iron plus solder, a multimeter, a variable output power supply, some cables with alligator, banana and J-clips to interconnect things, screwdriver sets with various standards such as Philips, Bristol, etc. and a set of pliers (I might be forgetting something for this basic set, but I am sure others will chime in with their suggestions).
From that point things diverge: a breadboard is of little use if you are repairing equipment, a cheap soldering iron is of little use if you are repairing notebooks or cellphones and so on.
The intersection points among the choices above are a soldering iron plus solder, a multimeter, a variable output power supply, some cables with alligator, banana and J-clips to interconnect things, screwdriver sets with various standards such as Philips, Bristol, etc. and a set of pliers (I might be forgetting something for this basic set, but I am sure others will chime in with their suggestions).
From that point things diverge: a breadboard is of little use if you are repairing equipment, a cheap soldering iron is of little use if you are repairing notebooks or cellphones and so on.
for repairing equipment and other household works
NOTE: I've written more than I planned but haven't yet finished this. I have to abandon it for the moment as other matters need attention but if there is interest I will complete it later. I don't know if the time invested will help anyone, so feedback is very helpful —Ya'akov
Welcome to AAC.
If you are starting from scratch, you will need essentials from some of the the categories that all tools come from:
Turning Tools: screwdrivers, nut drivers, wrenches, spanners, Allen keys, &c
Holding Tools: pliers, clamps, vises, tweezers, &c
Striking Tools: hammers, mallets, sledges, punches, &c
Boring Tools: drills, reamers, deburring tools, &c
Cutting Tools: saws, knives, &c
Joining Tools: soldering irons, hot glue guns, &c.
A kit that covers the basics for electronic repair will have most of the same tools no matter what you are repairing but there will be some differences. This is how I would start:
Toolbox/Tool Bag
Something that allows your tools to be organized and portable. It should be spacious so you can find the tool you need and include compartments that will hold small parts without loss or jumbling, as well as spaces large enough for long tools.
If you will exclusively work at a bench, wall hanging storage or drawers can replace the box.bag—but as a beginner, it is almost certainly best to make your tools mobile even if they will he used at the bench most of the time.
Turning Tools
A set if fastener removal/installation tools is fundamental to repair. This is an area where there can be distinct differences since various types of repair targets feature various fasteners—some high specialized. Still, there are basic drivers that represent the bulk of what you will encounter.
"Standard" Drivers
This category includes larger and midsized drivers of four types:
The table below might be helpful in getting an idea of how these drivers relate to applications and each other.
Notes
PH4/PZ4 are rare, usually in heavy construction or machinery.
Torx sizes span ranges because head dimensions vary by manufacturer.
In US wood screws:
Welcome to AAC.
If you are starting from scratch, you will need essentials from some of the the categories that all tools come from:
Turning Tools: screwdrivers, nut drivers, wrenches, spanners, Allen keys, &c
Holding Tools: pliers, clamps, vises, tweezers, &c
Striking Tools: hammers, mallets, sledges, punches, &c
Boring Tools: drills, reamers, deburring tools, &c
Cutting Tools: saws, knives, &c
Joining Tools: soldering irons, hot glue guns, &c.
A kit that covers the basics for electronic repair will have most of the same tools no matter what you are repairing but there will be some differences. This is how I would start:
Toolbox/Tool Bag
Something that allows your tools to be organized and portable. It should be spacious so you can find the tool you need and include compartments that will hold small parts without loss or jumbling, as well as spaces large enough for long tools.
If you will exclusively work at a bench, wall hanging storage or drawers can replace the box.bag—but as a beginner, it is almost certainly best to make your tools mobile even if they will he used at the bench most of the time.
Turning Tools
A set if fastener removal/installation tools is fundamental to repair. This is an area where there can be distinct differences since various types of repair targets feature various fasteners—some high specialized. Still, there are basic drivers that represent the bulk of what you will encounter.
"Standard" Drivers
This category includes larger and midsized drivers of four types:
- Slotted: frequently misnomered as "flathead", these are the simple wedge shaped tools that fit screws with a slot in the head. It is important to have a range of sizes as an ill-fitting slotted driver can easily damage the head of, or be damaged by, the oversized slot of a tight fastener. The basic set comprises:
3.0–3.5 mm (1/8″)
5.5–6.5 mm (7/32″–1/4″)
8.0 mm (5/16″)
- Phillips (PH) : these cruciform or crosspoint drivers are very common and even more fraught concerning proper sizing than slotted drivers. Phllips drivers were intended as an improvement to slotted screws and in many ways they are. But, the geometry of the recess is designed such that the selecting the proper sized driver can be difficult for a neophyte. There is a tendency to select a driver at least one size to small. The rule is to use the largest driver that fits into the head, and only the tip of the driver will be in the head.
The recess is designed to "cam out", that is, to have the driver climb the wall of the recess if "excess torque" is applied. This is problematic because the fasteners are often employed in cases where the proper installation and/or removal torque is at the limit of the fastener when hand tools are used. The Phillips head depends on sufficient, constant pressure applied to the driver into the recess in addition to the turning torque. It iw very easy to damage the head or driver by poor alignment and/or insufficient insertion force.
For this reason, while Phillips might be preferable to slotted in many cases, more modern types are preferable if you are choosing a screw for a project or repair. You can replace Phillips head screws with otherwise equivalent versions using PZ, R, or TX heads for ease of future repair.
The basic set comprises:
PH 1: small screws used, for example, to fasten covers to portable equipment. Roughly equivalent to the ~3mm slotted driver
PH 2: medium screws used, for example, to fasten things to structures, within cabinets and cases, or sometimes overlapping with PH 1
PH 3: large screws used, for example, to fasten heavy things or things that need high clamping force. Though it is less common than the other two, it is important to have a PH 3 driver on hand because using a PH 2 driver will almost certainly damage the head and/or driver.
- Pozidriv (PZ): Pozidriv was developed in 1962 as an improved Phillips. It as specifically designed to eliminate the "cam out" feature of the Phillips by using straight walls (as opposed to Phillips slanted walls) and a flat tip (instead of the rounded tip of Phillips). This allows for more torque to be applied to the fastener and for better engagement—and so better retention of the screw on the driver when installing. Phillips driver/screw combinations offer retention that ranges from excellent to non-existent depending on the driver/screw pairing.
It is very common in Europe where it was widely adopted as a Phillips replacement but not in the US where Phillips remained dominant. Nonetheless PZ heads do appear in the US and you should be prepared to handle them properly.
PZ fasteners look like PH—but the are not interchangeable. The head of a PZ screw will have four lines radiating from the center between the recesses and at 45° angles to them. When you see these, do not use a PH driver. You will almost certainly damage the head or driver if the fastener is torqued down at all, even if you manage to remove it.
If you have no choice, concentrate on providing maximum insertion pressure as you rotate the driver ("push down hard and twist slowly"). Of course is much better to have the proper driver on hand.
The basic set of PZ drivers comprises:
PZ 1
PZ 2
PZ 3
Unsurprisingly, roughly corresponding to PH 1, 2, and 3.
- Torx (T or TX): Torx was designed as an improvement in 1967. It was intended to high torque powered installation in manufacturing, with by hand and by automated systems. It was rapidly adopted by the automotive industry where it offered much more reliable assembly line operation.
Torx may also be called star drive if the Torx name is not licensed. The patent expired allowing companies to produce compatible products but the name is still owed by Camcar Textron, who have introduced "Torx Plus" in a bid to reestablish a proprietary standard. This has not been widely adopted but be careful as it is similar to the PH/PZ false equivalence. Another problem is that "star drive" may refer to something star-shaped but dimensionally incompatible with T.
Torx is a hexalobular geometry, that is, with six "lobes". It has excellent retention and a massive contact area compare to PH and PZ. It is particularly good for tiny fasteners where the diameter of the head makes a PH or PZ recess dodgy. It is particularly important to get high quality driver for the smaller sizes because it is quite easy to twist the driver's tip into a helix attempting to remove a screw that has been torqued down with a better driver or has had thread locker applied.
Be aware that very small, T-like head exist which can lead to confusion. A prime example is Apple's pentalobe using five lobes instead of six. Use magnification if drivers don't seem to engage—damaging fasteners with attempts to brute force incorrect drivers is very easy.
The basic T set comprises:
T6/T7
T15
T20
Again, this roughly follows the PH 1, 2, and 3 pattern
The table below might be helpful in getting an idea of how these drivers relate to applications and each other.
| Screw Size (approx.) | Thread Dia. (mm) | US Gauge (#) | Slotted Blade (mm) | Phillips | Pozidriv | Torx |
| Small electronics | 1.5 – 2.0 | #0 – #1 | 1.5 – 2.0 | PH00 | PZ00 | T4–T5 |
| Light hardware | 2.0 – 2.5 | #2 – #3 | 2.5 | PH0 | PZ0 | T5–T6 |
| Small machine screws | 2.5 – 3.0 | #4 | 3.0 | PH1 | PZ1 | T6–T7 |
| General light wood | 3.0 – 3.5 | #5 | 3.5 | PH1 | PZ1 | T7–T8 |
| Common household | 3.5 – 4.0 | #6 | 4.5 | PH2 | PZ2 | T8–T10 |
| Medium wood/metal | 4.0 – 5.0 | #8 | 5.5 – 6.0 | PH2 | PZ2 | T10–T15 |
| Structural / light lag | 5.0 – 6.0 | #10 – #12 | 6.5 | PH3 | PZ3 | T15–T20 |
| Heavy lag / coach | 6.0 – 8.0 | 1/4″ | 8.0 | PH3 | PZ3 | T20–T25 |
| Large bolts / specialty | 8.0 – 10.0 | 5/16″ | 10.0 | PH4* | PZ4* | T27–T30 |
Notes
PH4/PZ4 are rare, usually in heavy construction or machinery.
Torx sizes span ranges because head dimensions vary by manufacturer.
In US wood screws:
- #6 = most common household screw → PH2 / PZ2 / T10.
- #8 = very common in cabinetry & furniture → PH2 / PZ2 / T15.
- #10–#12 = deck, lag, or structural → PH3 / PZ3 / T20.
Dave Lowther
- Joined Sep 8, 2016
- 332
I find that my most commonly used gadget / tool is a continuity tester with an instantaneous audible beep. I don't like using a multimeter if I have to look at the display to see if it's 0 ohms. Even the multimeters I've used that have a beep function haven't been quick enough for me.
MaxHeadRoom
- Joined Jul 18, 2013
- 30,593
The list has been covered, but in repairing, I have always had Dry Wick and a solder sucker on hand.
Especially where PCT 's are concerned.
BTW, dry wick is also useful for repairing burnt traces that carry significant current.
Ok, re-reading your original post and this, I can think of several tools that I used as a beginner that are still very useful until today. I also found out better tools as I got more practice.
- As I mentioned before, a soldering iron (even a cheap one) is very useful for repairs in general: fix a broken wire, cables, cold solder joints, replace damaged components and so on. The quality of the tip and shape are critical; I personally think that conical tips create a lot of frustration since the heat transfer is impaired - prefer the slot-shaped tips at various widths depending on the size of the parts that you are going to use. Also, if you get a super cheap unbranded soldering iron but can't make a single good connection, sometimes it is ok to blame the iron. Regrettably, the sky is the limit for prices and types, but if money is short I would start with *at least* a branded one from Weller (they tend to have the lowest prices) or Hakko.
- Good quality solder. Over the years I used good and terrible quality solder. Don't skimp on this. The preferrable composition is Sn/Pb 63/37, but 60/40 works well as well. I like brands such as MG Chemicals, Kester, and some brazilian brands that are found nowhere else (Best, Cbix)
- Pliers. Apart from the traditional long nose and cutting pliers, over the years I found those micro cutters (Hakko CHP170) are excellent for precision work. Also, curved nose pliers and long flat nose pliers ("duck bill") are excellent additions to the basic set. A set of tweezers is an excellent helper as well.
- A way to hold things together to solder. In other words, a vise. I have a Panavise with accessories that can hold boards and larger objects for repair, but over the years I found out that a drill press vise is an excellent helper, since it sits very flat on the table and therefore helps a lot with it being stabilized. I have a 4'' one from Wilton but I am sure others will have their preferences. I never liked those "third hand" holders with alligator clips on their ends - too unstable for practical work.
- I also would take a relatively cheap but still mildly robust multimeter with me. I personally recommend (and tested on my channel) the Richmeters RM113D as a good balance between features and robustness (disclaimer: I take no $$$ out of this recommendation). I sill have mine and it is my go-to when portability and function are required. Others will have their preferences for this entry level. One thing that is quite common these days is being auto-range (so as a beginner you don't risk destroying your equipment) and a range of functions that can be useful such as fast continuity with beeper, frequency meter (good for 50~60Hz quick checks), a relatively accurate capacitance meter (if you need to check things such as starter or run capacitors) and a good NCV (non-contact voltage detector). On this last one, I also use since forever one of those neon lamp screwdrivers to verify if chassis are live (caused by insufficient grounding) - others will tell you to stay away from those and claim they are evil. If you have one of reasonable quality, it is a very useful tool.
- Cables with alligator clips on both ends and of various jaw sizes. These are definitely helpful to make temporary connections to test things.
- A good power supply with variable voltage control (0-15V, 0-30V) that can be used to supply boards or circuits outside of their housing. Preferrably, one with current limiter as well - something that computer power supplies don't do well, unless you put some extra circuitry to it.
Those are most of the items that come to mind at this time. I am pretty sure there are others but that is a reasonable start.
MaxHeadRoom
- Joined Jul 18, 2013
- 30,593
I cast some lead I had to make a heavy base to bolt onto my bench vise base, allows for heavy work, using miniature hacksaw etc,
If limited for $$, look at the cheap battery-portable 'scope's by FNIRSI , the do a reasonable job!
If limited for $$, look at the cheap battery-portable 'scope's by FNIRSI , the do a reasonable job!
panic mode
- Joined Oct 10, 2011
- 4,927
soldering iron or station
fume extractor with HEPA filter and activated carbon.
flux, solder, tip cleaner, solder sucker, wick
DMM (or two). one of them should be a clamp meter if working on devices that use high current. note that some can only measure AC (keep that in mind if planning to work on high current DC circuits)
bench PSU (0-30V, 0-5A or 0-10A)
scope (real one, not USB scope or hobby etc.), preferably also differential probe for it.
ESD mat and wrist strap
power bar
microscope or some other hands free magnification.
with that one can do a lot... and make own gadgets (PSU, milliohm meter, LCR meter, logic probe, signal generator,...)
fume extractor with HEPA filter and activated carbon.
flux, solder, tip cleaner, solder sucker, wick
DMM (or two). one of them should be a clamp meter if working on devices that use high current. note that some can only measure AC (keep that in mind if planning to work on high current DC circuits)
bench PSU (0-30V, 0-5A or 0-10A)
scope (real one, not USB scope or hobby etc.), preferably also differential probe for it.
ESD mat and wrist strap
power bar
microscope or some other hands free magnification.
with that one can do a lot... and make own gadgets (PSU, milliohm meter, LCR meter, logic probe, signal generator,...)
A great deal depends on your background in related areas. For example, I basically taught myself power electronics using LTspice from a background in software engineering. It has often been noted that LTspice has a steep learning curve, and the LTspice Help pages are not noted for being user friendly, but in most cases the information is there. My background in compiler writing and programming language development was helpful. I don't think my level of understanding for Switch Mode Power Supplies could have come in any other way. Would I trust myself with an actual commercial design? No, but under proper supervision I could probably mange to do a credible job.
you helped me a lot very very thanks to you
