LED blub technology has changed rapidly in recent years.

Aside from reducing brightness, the other reason to modify a bulb is to reduce power consumption. Most bulbs are driving the LEDs pretty hard – reducing the light output a little will greatly extend bulb life.... although I have seen few failed bulbs recently.

 

Hi.
With the only intention to avoid further skidding from the exact topic; my intention is to dim the light of whatever existent LED bulb in a ceiling by installing a current limiter in parallel to the wall switch. Not modifying the bulb.
Switch on=full normal light. Switch off=faint light

In a couple of houses I installed on the ceilings, the additional light source to avoid turning on the normal 'blinding' at midnight walk to pee and to get a drink. Now the intention is to use the same already installed typical ceiling lamps/lights/bulbs as a faint light source.



The 3 whiter contraptions fasten to ceiling; protuding at the center, 2 series - 2 antiparallel = a cluster of 4 white LEDs. Capacitively wired parallel to the wall switch. Made many.
The wall plate on right has added 2 antiparallel white LEDs, also energized when switch is off. Both ways been working for a decade.

 

For at least 50 years I have been aware of "illuminated" light switches that include a small neon light inside the toggle lever. I don't know if they are still available. The very funny thing about them as that as they age they reach a point of needing additional light energy to illuminate.

 

Light switches with a neon bulb do not illuminate peanuts in a room, jut tell were the switch is.

 

To provide that dim light constantly will require a dimmer in parallel with the switch. IFthe installation is to-code, then the power feed is to the light J-box, not theswitch. So the second dimmer can be installed at the light position quite conveniently. Inconvenient to adjust, but it does not need frequent adjustment.

 

To provide that dim light constantly will require a dimmer in parallel with the switch. IFthe installation is to-code, then the power feed is to the light J-box, not theswitch. So the second dimmer can be installed at the light position quite conveniently. Inconvenient to adjust, but it does not need frequent adjustment.

Maybe I'm not following this, but I thought that the normal way that most lights are wired is that power comes into the junction box where the switch is, as this makes it the most convenient way to switch the hot conductor before sending it on to the light. If it comes into the light, you would then need to send it out to the switch and back to the light. I don't have a copy of the NEC and couldn't find anything on line that indicated that code requires that power come into the junction box with the light. Could you provide a link to a reference for that? Thanks.

 

IFthe installation is to-code, then the power feed is to the light J-box, not theswitch

I can find nothing to support this claim (assuming NEC in the US).

An interesting new feature is that in most cases, neutral conducts must be included in most junction boxes to support smart sockets & switches which require power. This means running a 3 conductor + ground cable to a remote light socket.

 

I can find nothing to support this claim (assuming NEC in the US).

An interesting new feature is that in most cases, neutral conducts must be included in most junction boxes to support smart sockets & switches which require power. This means running a 3 conductor + ground cable to a remote light socket.

OK, power going first to the light-fixture is the rule in my city. The explanation I got is that it allows fans to be powered without affecting the light control.The simple scheme is to run 3-conductor cable from the ceiling box to the switch box. THAT allows all the options.