OK.... you all did a great job with approving my last circuit for a 12VDC version of this request, but after getting my hands on the actual schematic I found that I was misinformed as to the source voltage of the RV's Refrigerator's heater, it is actually 120VAC. So upon looking at the specs the heater draws 450 watts (3.7 Amps on AC). These fridges are now installed in RV's as an option and are powered off of a 1000 watt inverter connected to the battery(s). When connected to shore power this is not an issue, but if you are dry-camping (no shore power) and the defrost heater kicks in, it hits the battery(s) for 37+ amps. The heater runs for 24 minutes each request about 2 or 3x a day. Needless to say the battery(s) will drain very rapidly. The switch part is not an issue as it will disconnect the heaters supply voltage, nor is the POWER "ON" LED (A), but it is trying to add a LED (B) to indicate if the thermostat is open or closed while the heater is disconnected.
The DC version would have worked out OK, but now that the circuit is actually powered by AC, I am thinking that the same wiring will work, because it has a current limiting resistor and diode(s) enclosed in the LED housing. The Granger 120VAC led statistics states it is 4.4mA. See the diagram attached.
Original Post with 12VDC circuit:
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...er-while-monitoring-thermostat-status.134790/
Thanks and Your thoughts again,
Don
The DC version would have worked out OK, but now that the circuit is actually powered by AC, I am thinking that the same wiring will work, because it has a current limiting resistor and diode(s) enclosed in the LED housing. The Granger 120VAC led statistics states it is 4.4mA. See the diagram attached.
Original Post with 12VDC circuit:
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...er-while-monitoring-thermostat-status.134790/
Thanks and Your thoughts again,
Don
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