IN4007 it is...confirmedHello Ron,
About the diodes:
The 1N4007 is a higher voltage version of the 1N4004.
That will work fine in the amp.
About the capacitor:
The working voltage must be the one stated in the schematics.
The 35 Volts can be used. A 50 Volts version may even be better.
(I am in favour for the High temp types).
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=020-1670
Perhaps change C4 too, that is of the same age.
I alway use a capacitor that is rated 1.5 times the working voltage or higher.
About the LM234:
I asked to check the 57.6 K (R190 / R290) resistors before, but the 226 Ohms resistors can be checked too.
(you said you had no access).
Greetings,
Bertus
PS Digikey and Mouser are also very good part suppliers:
http://www.digikey.com/
http://www2.mouser.com/Home.aspx
There you will also find a lot of SMD parts.
C4/C5 = 24V x 1.5 = 36V(thus 35V by design)....is bigger(50V=24V x 2.1) always better, or is that a condition where using an extra strong cap, etc....could allow "more components" to burnout if a spike occurs....?
(Just asking to understand why certain values are chosen by design)
I'll check digikey & mouser also......I've checked them for other parts, but thought they had large minimum orders, more suited to big business, but I could be wrong.....I'll check them out again....and I couldn't find Crown parts online, but found their policy on page 5-3......tough doing things by phone here(press 1, press 5, wait, wait.....no humans avail..??)
Yes, you are correct about checking resistors around LM234(also D119 - page 3-6), so we are of the same mind here, and correct, I had no access......the board will have to come out for that, and probably to do D1-D4, C4/C5 if I'm not mistaken, as these are not SMD, and would be soldered from the rear.....correct..?
Can I do a workaround to just remove those 6 components from the top, temporarily wire these 6 new components with wire extensions, and see if I get back to my original operating condition(before the latest Blowup) to see if I ruined anything else, or should I just open it all up and "dig in"......as other components "may" have been Fried as well........? To powerup with board out I may need the service kit wire extension pack(page 2-3,4)......any way around that..?
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