Whatever the problem is, it won't be anything complicated or mystical.
Get yourself a voltmeter and measure the voltage at the output of the PSU, after the connector, after the switch and at the motor terminals; the problem will become obvious.

 

I have it somehow I didnt check it I will do it when I go home. Thank you.

Supposing that there are differences or not. What I have to do ?

 

Simply follow the voltage through the system. With the switch closed you should have 5V throughout; the point at which you don't have 5V will indicate exactly where the problem lies.

 

Simply follow the voltage through the system. With the switch closed you should have 5V throughout; the point at which you don't have 5V will indicate exactly where the problem lies.

I used voltmeter and saw that when switch on motor showed 2 V. So it seems there is a problem with button. But I also again try to connect with crocodile cables. Then motor show 4.5V and run it well. So I thinnk there is no problem with button.

I add a video you can see problem from here.

 

Contact resistance due to twisted cables!
Max.

 

Contact resistance due to twisted cables!
Max.

Sorry I don't understand. which cables are twisted. If you mention about button and motor cables, it is same in both of connection types.

 

dont twist the cables together, solder them, or use terminal blocks.

 

dont twist the cables together, solder them, or use terminal blocks.

I couldnt explain myself. Which cable ı dont have to twist. Why it s not work if I twist cables. But it works with crocodile connection even if cables are twisted

 

Twisted wire connection contract/expand in the presence of current, the croc clips are a positive connection.
Max.

 

can you put a voltmeter across the motor with the wires twisted, and post a video..

 

can you put a voltmeter across the motor with the wires twisted, and post a video..

I made it before. For example you saw connections above on video what I made. In first one, powersupply cables are goes to one of the motor terminal, other goes to button with CROCODİLE. In this system I use voltmeter and determined that across the motor when switch on, there was 4.5v which is enough for running motor. Second system that everything are same, only I connect cables by hand (you can see video above) and used voltmeter, across the motor it showed 1.5-2.0v. So it was not enough for run motor and Its behaviour was like what you can see in video above. So if we analyse these treatments, there is no problem with cables which are twisted. I think, problem point is connection of power supply to motor and button.

Thanks for your considerations. In every replies I learn new things.

 

This is a very strange thread

It is a very simple circuit with few components and you have been provided with a testing methodology, it is now up to you to switch on your brain and proceed in a logical manner.... if fixing this problem is your motivation, that is.

 

At last, I remove all components. I have 3 trying you will see video below. First trying that I again used crocodile cables and directly connect with motor. So it was run. Second trying that I remove alligators and directly try to connect with motor terminals and it hesitated to run. Third trying that When I made second one, I recognised that motor can catch current and started to run. Then I tried to fine adjustment and It was run. You can see all of my telling on video below.

Yes, I dont know lot of things about electricity or electronics. But I think it is a simple problem that I couldn't understand..

Thanks

 

Hello my friends,

I ve got a cordless screwdriver which has finished battery and broken button. I decided to get an adapter and connect a button. I made it but I ve got a problem. When I try to connect adapter cables to botton and motor, it s not run. I ve used soldering, socket, connector etc. and it just give movement and stop again give movement and stop. But when I use crocodile cable, It s run smoothly. I couldn't understand that is there a special feature in crocodile cable.

Thank you..

If it uses nickel chemistry batteries - there's no way the adaptor can match them for the current draw.

The best option is a proper repair with new switch and new batteries.

Note that if the original batteries were nickel cadmium, they're pretty much obsolete and nickel metal-hydride may not cope with the current draw either.

You'll probably spend the price of a new one on parts before you get half way!

 

If it uses nickel chemistry batteries - there's no way the adaptor can match them for the current draw.

The best option is a proper repair with new switch and new batteries.

Note that if the original batteries were nickel cadmium, they're pretty much obsolete and nickel metal-hydride may not cope with the current draw either.

You'll probably spend the price of a new one on parts before you get half way!

I checked it and yes it was used ni-cd battery. So problem is chemistry of motor ? Then alligator clips have nickel chemistry that is why they run motor. If I use nickel cables or nickel connectors, is my problem solve ?

 

There seems to be no sign that the twisted wire connection cause has been eliminated, by solder/screw connections etc??
Max.

 

There seems to be no sign that the twisted wire connection cause has been eliminated, by solder/screw connections etc??
Max.

I also tried screw and solder directly, but there is no chance.. Probably ian field is right. I removed some thin parts from old battery that I suppose they are nickel part. Tried to contact motor terminal and it catched current more easier than without this part. I hope that if I can find nickel connector or cables, it will fix.

 

Where did this assumption that the problem is somehow related to nickel come from?

It is clear, from the pulsing, that the power-supply is not suitable for driving this motor.

 

I also tried screw and solder directly, but there is no chance.. Probably ian field is right. I removed some thin parts from old battery that I suppose they are nickel part. Tried to contact motor terminal and it catched current more easier than without this part. I hope that if I can find nickel connector or cables, it will fix.

All the metallurgy I mentionrd is confined within the sealed cells.

AFAICR: the cell cases are stainless steel - you can get an active flux strong enough from a plumbers merchant.

Those batteries don't like heat - if theres any of the spot welded contact strip left, solder to that. keep heat away from the seal at the + end!

 

Where did this assumption that the problem is somehow related to nickel come from?

It is clear, from the pulsing, that the power-supply is not suitable for driving this motor.

If the problem is power-supply why it is work with crocodiles ? it is not pulse..