thanks, Bertus ... as a matter of fact, I'm quite familiar with dancer roll mechanisms. What I ignored was what they were called in EnglishHello,
The internet is full of images for dancer roll tension control:
dancer roll tension control
Bertus
Please, look at my post #40Danko, I'll be aquiring two of these for testing purposes. I'll also buy a few of the caps they say are needed, those caps are easy to find where I am, but I just want to make sure they're the right ones. The page says that it's a 1.3uF cap, but the picture says that it's 1.3MFD ... and I'm wondering if it's 1.3 millifarads instead (I doubt it)
I did read the post, thank you. But the motor in post #40 is rated at 1.1 oz-in torque, while the other one has 1.8 oz-in. I'd rather have that extra torque in case I need it, and I can always bring it down by using a smaller capacitor. Plus, the motor I chose has a straight shaft and is easier to adapt to what I'm doing, while the other one is a spline. And a $6 dll difference is not that important.Please, look at my post #40
There is more cheaper motor.
OK. This is your circuit: Black capacitor is 1.3uF. Red capacitor you will select for tension, you need.I did read the post, thank you. But the motor in post #40 is rated at 1.1 oz-in torque, while the other one has 1.8 oz-in. I'd rather have that extra torque in case I need it, and I can always bring it down by using a smaller capacitor. Plus, the motor I chose has a straight shaft and is easier to adapt to what I'm doing, while the other one is a spline. And a $6 dll difference is not that important.
Just to verify, and to make sure that I understand what you're saying, for testing purposes I need a 13µF for the black capacitor, and 1.3µF for the red one? So the black capacitor stays fixed at 13µF, and then I just change the value of the red one to adjust torque?OK. This is your circuit: View attachment 151167Black capacitor is 1.3uF. Red capacitor you will select for tension, you need.
1.3uF - it is value for full speed of motor, but in your case motor is stopped.
For this mode max torque will with value of black capacitor about 13uF. Torque is almost proportional to value of C_black.
Then you will select C_red for torque you need.
Yes, you are right.Just to verify, and to make sure that I understand what you're saying, for testing purposes I need a 13µF for the black capacitor, and 1.3µF for the red one? So the black capacitor stays fixed at 13µF, and then I just change the value of the red one to adjust torque?
Yes, I thought about a mechanical solution to the problem as well. A spring is one of them. But that is what I call a passive mechanism, which would still need a slip-clutch or a friction "shoe", and the spring would vary the tension on the wire when it becomes stretched, which is undesirable. Also, I intend to run the winder backwards in parts of the process which will change the direction of the winding (by reversing rotation) where needed. So in some parts the motor applying tension to the wire will rotate forwards and in other backwards, as it is being dragged or released by the winder motor. A spring and/or a clutch or friction brake are incapable of compensating for that. In the end, it is much simpler (mechanically speaking) if a counter-motor directly coupled with the spool is used. Such as I intend to do.I see a much simpler solution using a physical spring. Wondering if that would make sense to anyone.
Danko, your advice (which I'm sure is based on experience) is proving invaluable. I want you to know that I thoroughly appreciate all the help you've been giving me on this (and other) threads. Many, many thanks.Yes, you are right.
Because of stopped (start) mode, black capacitor should be 1.3 * 10 = 13uF for max torque.
Then experiment with C_red. Begin with small value, about 1uF.
Crude drawing - I saw some better drawings on subsequent posts....Not familiar ... a sketch would indeed be appreciated ... thanks for the offer
I see nothing wrong with your work of art ... ... seriously, it's easy to understand and that's what countsCrude drawing - I saw some better drawings on subsequent posts....
I'll be sure to put it on my refridgerater tonight!!!I see nothing wrong with your work of art ... ... seriously, it's easy to understand and that's what counts
I am embarrassing.Danko, your advice (which I'm sure is based on experience) is proving invaluable. I want you to know that I thoroughly appreciate all the help you've been giving me on this (and other) threads. Many, many thanks
First thing we need avoid is mechanical contact wire to anything, because of possibility of enamel damage.I see a much simpler solution using a physical spring. Wondering if that would make sense to anyone.
yes, that's another factor I forgot to mentionFirst thing we need avoid is mechanical contact wire to anything, because of possibility of enamel damage.
That's how wire winding was controlled where I worked. But it was on way bigger rolls of wire than C is using. Though we called them "dancer arms".Use a dancer roll - if not familiar, let me know and I'll draw up a brief sketch...
Oh yeah... I'm familiar with big winders ... but winding a gauge #32 to #42 in tiny coils with 10 mm id is an entirely different thingThat's how wire winding was controlled where I worked. But it was on way bigger rolls of wire than C is using.
Before going into an electronic solution, the ones in Albert and Alex's posts #8 and 9 would be what I would try. With the tensioner in those posts on the center of the supply spools axis there shouldn't be a problem with over shoot/backlash in the winding. Another felt buffer on the supply spool would probably take care of any that did come up.Oh yeah... I'm familiar with big winders ... but winding a gauge #32 to #42 in tiny coils with 10 mm id is an entirely different thing