While reading this thread this morning "crutschow" mentioned a device in post #3 that I have never heard of before. I think this device and a mosfet in each leg of the driver output may solve your problem. It's output current is very low so the switching speed will be quite be quite slow due to the time taken to charge the source gate capacitance of the mosfet.

Les.

Hey Jones,
Did you know how to solve the below one

Hi Everyone,

With continuation of my testing what i found is When i am keeping the light on the table where oscilloscope, Wattage meter etc... were kept and when i am touching the light LED's are ON if i lift light by holding cable connected to LED it is off what i am feeling is it is because of ESD suppression for eliminating ESD suppression i tried TVS Diode but issue not solved can any one have idea how to eliminate ESD suppression with low cost

 

Hi Saiteja,

Connecting a 48V low wattage incandescent bulb across the LED supply may help.

Regards,

Nandu.

 

Without more information I can't be certain, but it sounds to me (or looks to me) like @Saiteja chinthalapati is trying to use one of these, or something similar. I have this one under my cabinets and here's how it works: You plug a power pack (wall wart) into a switched outlet. Turn power on and you can control the brightness with a built-in dimmer pot. I suppose some models may even come with a switch. Possibly Saiteja's unit is so equipped. If so - I must guess that it performs the same basic function as an outlet controlled by a switch. BTW, mine is controlled via a switched AC outlet.

Without knowing the internal electronics of such a unit it would be very difficult to answer your question accurately. I have to go back to your block diagrams to be sure, but I think you're wanting to replace a switch inside the power module with something you don't have to manually switch, but be able to switch it remotely using some other means - be-it an Arduino or other BlueTooth receiver. Again, without knowing the internals, we can give you our best guess, but it's going to be just that - a guess.

If you don't want a relay clicking on and off then - and this is also a guess - possibly an IGBT will do. Easily driven by an Arduino or other control device but still able to shut off power to nearly full zero. I don't know specs on IGBT's I've only recently learned a little about them and am currently building a project using one.

Another thing we don't - and need to - know is whether the original switch was before the load or after. For that fact, it could be something internal to the circuit. Again, guesswork on our part.

 

Connecting a 48V low wattage incandescent bulb across the LED supply may help..

I've actually done that myself. My basement lighting consisted of incandescent bulbs. When I put a motion detector switch in (PIR) - the lights operated normally. But when I replaced the incandescents with fluorescents they'd stay slightly illuminated. The PIR switch was not built to operate fluorescent or LED lights. Putting a single low wattage inc-bulb the tubes went completely dark when the switch was off (or supposedly off). Later on I upgraded to LED lighting. Removed the inc-bulb and the LED's would flicker and/or stay slightly lit at all times when the switch was off. Keep in mind this is a Passive Infra Red (PIR) motion detector switch. Had to put one inc-bulb in to quiet the operation so the LED's weren't destroying themselves trying to light up.

 

Your description of the tests in post #41 are not very clear. I think you are saying that when the LED light is close to something that is grounded the lights are on dim when the control is at the lowest setting but if they are not close to anything that is grounded then they go out. This is the effect I was describing in post #30. You have not yet responded to post #20 Post pictures of the oscilloscope traces (In two channel mode.) for D+ and D-. Have the scope plugged into the same supply as the lighting unit so the devices have a common ground. DO NOT connect the scope ground to the output or control connections on the LED power supply. Post pictures with the control set to full brightness, about half brightness and then minimum brightness. (All these tests with the LEDs connected.) It is also worth doing what was suggested in post #42. Some pictures of your test setup may be useful so we have an idea what the LED lighting unit is like and cable lengths etc.

Les.

 

Your description of the tests in post #41 are not very clear. I think you are saying that when the LED light is close to something that is grounded the lights are on dim when the control is at the lowest setting but if they are not close to anything that is grounded then they go out. This is the effect I was describing in post #30. You have not yet responded to post #20 Post pictures of the oscilloscope traces (In two channel mode.) for D+ and D-. Have the scope plugged into the same supply as the lighting unit so the devices have a common ground. DO NOT connect the scope ground to the output or control connections on the LED power supply. Post pictures with the control set to full brightness, about half brightness and then minimum brightness. (All these tests with the LEDs connected.) It is also worth doing what was suggested in post #42. Some pictures of your test setup may be useful so we have an idea what the LED lighting unit is like and cable lengths etc.

Les.

As i didn't have option to use phone during office hours. I can't share the photos

 

i Pulled down LED- to earthing through resistor problem solved.