I have infiniti g37xs with inop cluster after repair. None of the gauges work. Do i need a new cluster or is there a simpler fix.

 

Was the cluster repaired or something else on the vehicle?
Have you checked all the connectors to insure they have proper connections?

 

I had a key programming tech, service the cluster bc it was dim. He mentioned something about having to set the original eeprom aside to be able to correct the issue. I took the cluster out and reinstalled to make sure of that and its still the same issue

 

I would say the tech inadvertently caused another issue. Put the original eeprom back in.

 

could you recommend the best programmer to this, myself?

 

I'm not familiar with the cluster from infinities but Even with a "eeprom" bad or completely missing you should still see some activity. The way clusters are usually laid out the eeprom memories will have little to nothing to do with lighting or gauges. If it was dim the tech probably would be working more with a voltage regulator or at worst the main mcu flash programming. Which if done wrong would not power or control anything. Another possibility could be they removed the eeprom to read and save its memory and then installed it backwards creating a short in vcc/gnd, this is the only way I would consider a eeprom to render it totally inop.

Maybe he is referring to a voltage regulator as a eeprom since they can look similar? I would send it to another tech who specializes in instrument clusters. It shouldn't be hard to fix for someone who knows clusters well enough. Maybe @bwilliams60 will chime in. I believe he knows them pretty well.


Also, make sure to check your fuses.

 

Whenever I hear something like this, I always look back to the starting point and work from there. The cluster was dim but it worked. He removed the EEPROM (not sure why) and now it doesn't. @narkeleptk I think has it right. If he installed the EEPROM backwards, you could end up with the symptoms you describe. The good thing about this is that it may not hurt anything (no promises). Most of the time, you can remove it and reinstall it properly and everything will work again. That is the best case scenario. Option B is that he shorted something and now your cluster is toast. I would get someone that knows what they are doing, remove the EEPROM and reinstall it 180 degrees.
As for the dim lighting, I would send the cluster to someone who does this on a regular basis. If you want, PM me where you live and I can probably send you to someone who is good at it. It sounds like you have maybe lost a string of LEDs which can spread across the cluster or you have issues with voltage being lost somewhere in the car or on the board. These clusters are not known for a lot of issues. Anything can happen though.

 

@bwilliams60 This is very true. I do not like to use clips and always remove eeproms to read so I have placed a few backwards in my days that's for sure. The only reason to pull the eeprom on these is for mileage. That is pretty much all that is in it. I commonly save flash programming and eeprom data when I am working on units in case things go south. There are some units, like BMW cas modules or Mercedes eis units that I back up manually on bench before doing anything else even if my work on them is only through obd. They tend to corrupt their data if you even look at them funny and its not fun work coding in replacements with out original data.

@altracargo What is the year of your car?
Looking over some of my files I see most all of my Nissan cluster work has been done in eeproms I read as S93cXX
If your handy enough, feel comfortable to to disassemble your cluster and know how to work a dmm you can verify if the eeprom is placed correctly. I'm pretty sure you have to remove the needles and face for these models to get to the eeprom. It will be one of the few soic-8 chips and labeled s93c66 or maybe RL66 if your closer to my2009 and S93C76/86 if closer to my2013.

Pin 1 will be indicated by a indented dot or painted white dot.
The pin out for vcc and gnd is:
1 * 8 Vcc
2 7
3 6
4 5 Gnd

Set dmm to continuity mode.
Hold one probe to pin 5 of the s93cxx.
Find a smd electrolytic capacitor and and hold your other probe on the ground tab (black label side). It should beep/show continuity. Other pins should not show any continuity with the exception of pin 7 which is a no connect pin and may or may not be grounded.

You may also get visual clues of what happened with out doing any work if the tech was sloppy you will know exactly where he was working. The solder will not look like the other joints and your likely to see left over flux. Your welcome to post pictures with any questions and I'll help further to see what happened if I am able.

 

@altracargo, if you can post some pictures of the PCB, nice and clear, we can help you through this. There are tons of programmers out there to choose from. If the chip does not have an indented dot or notch in the end of the chip, it may have a chamfered edge as an identifier for number one as well. If you put the chamfered edge on the left side, pin 1 is usually if not always the top pin.
@narkeleptk has left with you with everything else you need to figure this out. Good luck.

 

you could always try getting ahold of a specialist for that and see if they can fix it or if they know where to get a new one that wont cost you an arm and a leg..