Car Alarm Module + Central Lock Module

Thread Starter

Aleksandr Gonzales

Joined Jan 15, 2016
12
Good day!


I bought a Car Alarm System and Central Lock System. I already tapped the alarm module wires to its designated places, however what I am left to do is to connect the alarm module with the central lock module. My car doesn't have a central locking system, so I placed all the four actuators.
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I followed this guide and left me with Brown and White wires. I assume it should go to the alarm module. Now, I am tasked to know if I have a positive trigger or a negative. What does this mean? Because, if I use my multi-tester, and put probes on brown and white, it outputs 12V. And if they came contact with each other, the actuators will be triggered. Furthermore, I tapped both wires individually to negative, and the brown put the actuators up, and the white put the actuators down. If I am going to connect this to the alarm, is it normal that one of the wire will output positive current? What I thought is it should be waiting for a negative output from the alarm to trigger which state the actuator should go. Of I am totally wrong.
 
Post the instructions for your alarm.

The 5 wire actuator has a switch inside. Not sure of the purpose except to tell if the doors are locked on unlocked. It could also be away to arm and disarm the alarm.

The door lock actuators are motors. You probably have a "lock" or "unlock" signal from the alarm. This can be a contact to ground (negative trigger) or a pulse to +12 (positive trigger). They don't connect to the door lock motors directly.
You can wire relays to utilize one or the other.

Usually, you have to provide external relays to use the lock/unlock signals. You only need two relays to activate all 4 locks. In my case, I used 2 relays per door, I had two doors. I had high current solenoids.

The lock motors will see ground on both wires in their quiesent state.
One side will go to +12 briefly on lock the other side briefly on unlock.

When I installed an alarm, my 2 door car did not have lock motors and I did not provide an internal switch. I did, hoever add two switches to the console:
1. the valet switch (had to be flipped with the ignition on)
2. Optionally unlock the passenger door.

One useful place is here: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

I set this https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/installation-guides/12v-relay-common-uses-with-wiring-diagrams-installation-guide.pdf#page=16 to open at door locks negative trigger. There are other door lock circuits.
 
A negaive trigger (contact closure to ground) on brown or a negative trigger on white. Who knows why there are two activate signals? Front and back doors? Two places? Probably Chinglish for lock and unlock. Why 2 switches in a single box?

There are two "front door driver seat" lock motors? One is a 4-wire and one is a two wire. Cars usually have only one driver seat.

I'm a little confused too.
 
Last edited:

Thread Starter

Aleksandr Gonzales

Joined Jan 15, 2016
12
I test again with a different setup. I only connect the two wires of the actuators (blue and green), and left the two brown and white wires of the actuators.

I noticed that the 12V power on the brown and white wires going to the alarm was gone. And shorting the two wires makes no trigger on the actuators. So I test it by putting individual wires to negative (-), and the brown wire triggers the actuator up, and the white, triggers the actuator down.

By the way, there are two brown and white wires. Two are going to the actuators and the two are for the alarm module. Still, I am confused about the common line wire from the alarm. Hehe.

View attachment 20200803_101650-min.jpg
 
there are two browns and two whites to the lock module. One goes to the actuator (A) and the other goes to the block with the two switches (B).

So, connecting White-B to ground, or brown-B to ground should lock or unlock the doors.

If any of the doors are backwards, you have to switch some wires. Particularly switch the back door wires to the errant actuator.

I was trying to find info on the internet about the function of the actuator with the switch. I saw one instance which makes me believe that moving the lock manually with the existing linkage, should lock and unlock the door.

, but there are three wires (W/B, Y, and W)coming from car alarm module, and I only got two wires from the central lock module (Brown and White).
You have the possibility of 4 wires. If you include +12 and ground. See the little ground symbol. 1596443744613.png

In that box with the two switches?

You have W/B (UP) and White (Down) which are the easy ones. They should use Lock and unlock, but down is probably lock.

Notice that when you look at the alarm module, yellow can be connected to +12 or ground. Thats the key.
The wires from the alarm module should then be potential free. Check.

If you put your meter on resistance or the diode mode between W/B and Yellow, there should be a contact closure for lock for a short time. Similarly between yellow and White for unlock.

So, if that's the case, yellow on the alarm module goes to ground.
W/B and White go to brown-B or white-B. Flip if it's backwards.

1) So, you should be able to lock/unlock the doors by taking brown-B or white-B to ground.
2) make sure all of the locks move correctly
3) Let me know if you manually move the mechanical lock, do the other doors lock/unlock?
4) Common allows the alarm module to do positive or negative trigger. it might be easy to mistake common for ground.
5) What I think you have is a momentary contact closure from the alarm module from common and W/B or Yellow.
You can "assign" common to +12 or ground.


Before doing resistance measurements, use voltage first.

I hate these kind of instructions.
 
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