Hi, I'm trying to make a PCB with a digital-analog converter for the Arduino. I found a circuit that I want to use however there's a capacitor in it that I don't know. I look up caps on Digi-Key website and there are a lot of different types. Anyone have any idea what this one is? Its c4 a 10uf cap, looks to have polarity.

 

Electrolytic cap

 

that didn't take long, lol, thanks! Just like the old can style?

 

Yes

 

I don't see a C24?
If C4 it can also be a Tantalum for small footprint
Max.

 

Sorry c4, I did see those expensive tantalum's, the cap is 1206 package.

 

I don't see a C24?
If C4 it can also be a Tantalum for small footprint
Max.

You have to be careful with tantalum - they're very intolerant of any reverse voltage!

 

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...Capacitors/_/N-5g8m?P=1z0wrkrZ1yx4avtZ1yzmoty

 

What's the difference between tantalum and electrolytic?

When I look on digikey for something I don't have electrolytic as a category. Which one is good? I believe I need at least 16v cap because the circuit is 12v DC and 1206 package would be nice.

https://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en?keywords=10uf

That mouser link is ceramic, those aren't polarity concerned. Those are what I'm using as bypass caps.

 

I don't see a problem with a lack of exploding if you install the capacitor backwards.

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Ceramic-Capacitors/_/N-5g8m/

If you simply don't like ceramic capacitors, use the search engine to find something else. Aluminum electrolytics and tantalums are polarity sensitive, but the tantalums last longer.

 

thanks but I still don't understand the difference? If this circuit was designed with a polarity sensitive cap shouldn't it still have that type? There must be some differences in all these. Right now my understanding is it doesn't matter what 10uf cap I put there but I know that's not correct.

 

You have to be careful with tantalum - they're very intolerant of any reverse voltage!

As are just about any polarized capacitor or electrolytic!
Max.

 

thanks but I still don't understand the difference? If this circuit was designed with a polarity sensitive cap shouldn't it still have that type? There must be some differences in all these. Right now my understanding is it doesn't matter what 10uf cap I put there but I know that's not correct.

Not absolutely necessary to go electrolytic, just that once you get into that value, the physical size can become an issue.
Tantalum usually offer a smaller physical size than common electrolytics.
Max.

 

Ah, so there is no SMD electrolytic cap? Tantalum would be the one to replace it if you want SMD?

 

Ah, so there is no SMD electrolytic cap? Tantalum would be the one to replace it if you want SMD?

Plenty avail in aluminum/ SMT http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/UWX1C100MCL2GB/493-2099-1-ND/590074
Max.

 

Thanks, that ones a little big for the board, its full. How about this one, I know cost is more but smaller board means cheaper overall.

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/T491A106M016AT/399-3687-1-ND/819012

 

That should work, per post#5.
Max.

 

Thanks Max and everyone else, just wanted to be sure. Simple things aren't always simple when you don't fully understand.

 

What's the difference between tantalum and electrolytic?

When I look on digikey for something I don't have electrolytic as a category. Which one is good? I believe I need at least 16v cap because the circuit is 12v DC and 1206 package would be nice.

https://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en?keywords=10uf

That mouser link is ceramic, those aren't polarity concerned. Those are what I'm using as bypass caps.

Multilayer ceramic chip capacitors have surprisingly large capacitance for such small sizes, mostly they're SMD but a few suppliers offer resin dipped leaded types.

They have among the lowest ESR figures of any types, most of the high capacitance ceramic dielectrics are very lossy at RF and the audiophools probably object to their use in audio gear.