MrChips-yes the schematic is correct,but the line between -N1 and V26 emitter should have an earth connection.Without that earth connection it won't work at all(the emitter of the relay transistor is supposed to draw current through an opamp input?-impossible!)To make the schematic more clear and easier to understand,my suggestion how it could be redrawn is shown in the added partial schematic.This way the voltage and current circuits are separated from the relay circuits.
GRNDPNR-sometimes it's impossible to find the exact schematic,and you'll have to do with something close.This is as close as at least I can get since it shows the single supply version.I've followed threads all over the world on power supplies,and I've learned that variations are numerous.Some already have a 10-turn pot(which I personally hate),different pot values and different transistors are often seen.Someone suggested that these are built by different factories that "use what they have".I'm beginning to think he's right.
If someone turns up with a schematic for the dual version,then it will be perfect.

 

I'm going to send Mastech another email and see if they can provide one for my specific model.

 

Fixed the pot, the power supply works as normal.

I only wish I could find the trim pot to calibrate the output. The slave channel puts out 30.8V and the master does 30.9V, I'd like to trim them both back to 30.0V

 

Not suggested from knowledge, but from experience.

I repair a lot of doa"s. Odds are in favor of mechanical issues.

ie. switch/relay/plug contacts, bad solder joints, broken trace/wire, etc.

Close enough I think, to quiet the nay-sayers.

 

Ok, so after getting it all fixed and back together here's what I found, and I wish I had taken pics but I didn't realize some of this was wrong, until I fixed it correctly then said "OOOOHHHHHH"

The display bezel that covers the 7-segment displays underneath was not
placed correctly so much as it was just shoved in, due to this the circuit
board that the 7-segment displays are soldered to was placed in at an angle
and then screwed in causing the board to warp lengthwise, placing undue
stress across the entire board.

On top of this, the protective plastic covers on each 7-segment display were
still in place. Initially I thought the display was just a bit blurry but
after removing the protective covers from all 12 7-segment displays, and
cleaning the grease marks off of the main display cover (inside), the entire display
became crystal clear. It also looks much better having been properly
assembled and everything being seated correctly. This is what I didn't know was wrong until I fixed it.

There were also an abundance of components that were not properly soldered
in place and required me to re-seat and re-solder them. The power supply
worked before this, but it's lifespan would have been affected some of these
incorrect placements.