# Bonding light metal to a bearing?

#### spinnaker

Joined Oct 29, 2009
7,830
I ordered one of these wind spinners.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZQ5VQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wheel (blades) has come separated from the center bearing. The wheel and bearing appear to be made from aluminum.

Looks like the company is going to replace the whole thing and not require me to return the broken one.

Any ideas on how to bound the wheel to the bearing? Both seem to be mad from aluminum.

#### tcmtech

Joined Nov 4, 2013
2,867
If you can get both surfaces clean scuffed up good with a ~60 - 100 grit sandpaper good old JB weld two part epoxy should keep things together rather well.

I use it enough for odd stuff like this I buy the stuff 2 - 4 packages at a time now.

For these odd little things it beats welding something up then machining or hand filing it to fit tight again.

#### BR-549

Joined Sep 22, 2013
4,928
I agree with the epoxy. I glued a starter to a car engine. Worked fine for years til I junked it. Everybody kept saying it wouldn't work/last....especially in winter. It was great. I wouldn't want to be the one that had to take it off.

#### spinnaker

Joined Oct 29, 2009
7,830
Loctite has a whole line of retaining compounds (that's a buzzword) specifically designed for fixing bearings to shafts and into cylinders.

For this I would choose loctite 680, since I assume it's a loose fit.
Thanks but the bearing is intact. The fan has just become separated from the bearing. If you were to lay the fan and bearing flat. The bearing would sort of sit on top of the bearing. Think of it sort of a sandwich with a missing slice of bread.

#### tcmtech

Joined Nov 4, 2013
2,867
For this I would choose loctite 680, since I assume it's a loose fit.
I never liked loctite products. Seems they think their poop don't stink given the prices they want for their products.

For the ~$17 they want for one tiny bottle of 680 I can buy several packages of JB weld that does the same job but in many situations better. #### strantor Joined Oct 3, 2010 6,383 I never liked loctite products. Seems they think their poop don't stink given the prices they want for their products. For the ~$17 they want for one tiny bottle of 680 I can buy several packages of JB weld that does the same job but in many situations better.
Sorry I didn't check the price before recommending. I use several types of loctite at work and very happy with it. But I don't have to pay for it. Actually wasn't aware how much it costs.

#### tcmtech

Joined Nov 4, 2013
2,867
Sorry I didn't check the price before recommending. I use several types of loctite at work and very happy with it. But I don't have to pay for it. Actually wasn't aware how much it costs.
Yea me too. Used it for a long time at places I worked and was not all that overly impressed with most of their products. They did okay but not as great as advertized by any means.

Then when I went o buy my own I was even less impressed. That's where JB weld came in! Did pretty much everything the loctite stuff I ever used did but was way easier to work with and about 20X cheaper per unit of measure!

Similar tensile strength, same working temperature and chemical compatibility ranges plus when used as a threadlocker it held but if the bolt or whatever had to be undone it didn't tear up the threads when backing it out.

It'smy #1 goto sealant for hydraulic and gas fittings now. It holds, doesnt leak, yet the fitting can be undone without damage if needed.
Same with keeping a new bearing in a bore when the old one got spun. Keeps it in place but if needed it can be pushed out without doing more damage the bore and if not just bringing things up over JB weld's thermal limits breaks it down without risk of overheating the metal parts.

That, and it's in my price range of cheap!

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#### #12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
I use Loc-tite for some very particular jobs, like not buying a new 35 mm Ny-loc nut every time I take a hub off my car. That makes what I have last a long time. Three drops on 35 mm nut? Six drops for the output jacks on a power supply? I tell my Loc-tite, "Me love you long time." As long as possible.

#### cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
7,911
Thanks but the bearing is intact. The fan has just become separated from the bearing. If you were to lay the fan and bearing flat. The bearing would sort of sit on top of the bearing. Think of it sort of a sandwich with a missing slice of bread.
I'd follow tcm's advice and roughen up both surfaces a bit with 400 sandpaper. Then I'd use a two part epoxy with a thick, creamy consistency and very carefully bond both parts together, allowing them to rest overnight before handling them again.

#### cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
7,911
I use Loc-tite for some very particular jobs, like not buying a new 35 mm Ny-loc nut every time I take a hub off my car. That makes what I have last a long time. Three drops on 35 mm nut? Six drops for the output jacks on a power supply? I tell my Loc-tite, "Me love you long time." As long as possible.
Just tell me you're using the green or blue type... and not the red one!

#### wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,201
My first thought was JBWeld also.

#### tcmtech

Joined Nov 4, 2013
2,867
Just tell me you're using the green or blue type... and not the red one!
Many years ago I had a guy hire me to do head gaskets on his car. It was a V6 and I figured a good day job plus materials.

Turned out he had worked on it himself in the past and had red loctited everything that was screwed in. Everything but the block was ruined taking it apart.

I made $200 to basically destroy his engine for him trying to take it apart being no bolt or sensor screwed into the aluminum heads or intake or accessory brackets didn't come out without taking the aluminum threads they went into with it. Never had JB weld do that yet! #### cmartinez Joined Jan 17, 2007 7,911 Many years ago I had a guy hire me to do head gaskets on his car. It was a V6 and I figured a good day job plus materials. Turned out he had worked on it himself in the past and had red loctited everything that was screwed in. Everything but the block was ruined taking it apart. I made$200 to basically destroy his engine for him trying to take it apart being no bolt or sensor screwed into the aluminum heads or intake or accessory brackets didn't come out without taking the aluminum threads they went into with it.

Never had JB weld do that yet!
Did you try to heat the loctited parts with a small torch before attempting to remove them?

#### tcmtech

Joined Nov 4, 2013
2,867
Did you try to heat the loctited parts with a small torch before attempting to remove them?
No. No reason to expect that it was there to begin with and there's no way to take a torch to a greasy engine without causing a whole lot of other problems.

It was his fault and he knew it and paid the price for it.

#### wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,201
Fun stuff here! Be sure to stick around until ~3:15 for the nighttime view.