Wire it up like the attached schematic. No more than one lamp assembly per complete circuit. To keep things simple, I've just shown the outboard, the battery, the bow lights along with the fuses and switches for the bow lights. Repeat the bow light wiring diagram for your port and starboard fishing lights.

You will need four switches rated for at least 10A each, and four slow-blow fuses in fuseholders. Carry spare fuses.

This gives you options. If you are out on the water and have a circuit failure that you cannot immediately repair, you will likely at least have some remaining lighting. You can also elect to run with any combination of lights.

If you just have one switch and one fuse for the bow lights, you may find yourself suddenly in the dark at a very awkward time.

Use waterproof switches. If you can't find waterproof switches, build a box to mount them in, and seal the openings.

Saltwater environments are brutal on electrical/electronic devices. Seal everything up as best you can. Red silicone RTV works quite well. Electrician's "wire nuts" are not suitable. Crimp-style connectors will rapidly corrode and fail. Solder terminals, heat shrink sleeving and red RTV are good.

I have a similar situation. I am trying to hook up 5 lights at 55W each. They are part of a wakebar setup with 3 facing forward and 2 facing back. I was trying to connect them using two switches. One switch to control the front 3 lights and on to connect the back 2 lights. How would the circuit change? I ran one ground wire for all lights. I realize now that I should run a seperate wire for each light. These are being run to a fuse box that is already wired for ACC switches and 10 A fuses. I need to verify the switch Amp rating.

 

Welcome to AAC.

We really like posters to open a new thread for each question. The thread you posted in is a year old and the OP has long since gone - http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=14997&page=2