No, I said the audio port PC ones as the audio port can be fried easily and now that audio is on the motherboard instead of a card that would not be good. The USB ones avoid that problem but are somewhat kludgy. The little handheld is a cheap starter scope. Scopes get better as the price increases. Apparently the new Siglents are easily USB connected to as large a monitor as you want. I don't need that size and other than just seeing the basic shape of the trace, depend on the digital scopes' ability to provide measurements of the signal without having to interpolate from the graticule. I don't need remote control and data logging. Stretching your buy-in budget to $300 will get you a nice entry-level bench DSO with tons of features and a nice screen. Or buy a good cheapo and save for the big one later. YMMV

Just had a look at that video. It's quite an impressive bit of kit actually. I have just ordered one. It's a good place to start. Thanks for your help. When it arrives and all assembled what's the best way of testing it? Given that it's 50V max.

 

Hook it up to a signal generator or it also has an alignment stud for probe alignment that outputs a signal. I have a small 9V battery box w/ ~8" lead to the barrel connector that I use with it and have thought about attaching it to the case with velcro but haven't as yet. I use the battery box for other things and it sits on my bench and the scope stays in a drawer for the rare times I need it. If you bought the kit it already has all the surface mount parts on the board and only needs the through-hole stuff soldered. Do check the calibration before screwing the box together. Hopefully, you got a good price as I have seen these ~$20.

 

Mine is fitted with VGA output. Will be testing that soon.
I suspect it would be permanent.

 

And that 50V max is for a 1X probe. 10X gets you to 500V, not that I ever play with V that high.

 

Hook it up to a signal generator or it also has an alignment stud for probe alignment that outputs a signal. I have a small 9V battery box w/ ~8" lead to the barrel connector that I use with it and have thought about attaching it to the case with velcro but haven't as yet. I use the battery box for other things and it sits on my bench and the scope stays in a drawer for the rare times I need it. If you bought the kit it already has all the surface mount parts on the board and only needs the through-hole stuff soldered. Do check the calibration before screwing the box together. Hopefully, you got a good price as I have seen these ~$20.

Great. Should be here tomorrow.

 

Mine is fitted with VGA output. Will be testing that soon.
I suspect it would be permanent.

Interesting. Is that something you can buy as a peripheral or is it something you made yourself? (I assume you are referring to the same device in Sam's video btw).

 

Interesting. Is that something you can buy as a peripheral or is it something you made yourself? (I assume you are referring to the same device in Sam's video btw).

The particular model I bought is fitted with VGA output.

Edit
Mine is an Owon 100 MHz.
/Edit

 

The particular model I bought is fitted with VGA output.

Edit
Mine is an Owon 100 MHz.
/Edit

Good to know. That might be my next move.

 

And that 50V max is for a 1X probe. 10X gets you to 500V, not that I ever play with V that high.

Hi

Just got my DSO. (That had an entirely different meaning during WW2)

I need to attach a jack plug to a 9VDC power adapter that I have. So I can test the main board before proceeding. I'm going to go with +ve inside and -ve outside. That's the norm on several of my various other adapters including the one that's on it. There's nothing on the DSO main board to indicate polarity. What's yours? Just thought I would check before going ahead. You never know.

Cheers

 

+ inside, tested it to be sure.

 

+ inside, tested it to be sure.

Thanks.

 

+ inside, tested it to be sure.

BTW. I usually apply flux paste before soldering and rinse it off with isopropyl alchohol. But this looks a bit delicate. Did you use flux when assembling yours?

 

I bought the finished unassembled model for that one but I usually use a drop or 2 of liquid Kester 951 no clean flux and clean with IPO when I do solder. Especially on older somewhat oxidized parts. That and rosin core 60/40 lead/tin solder.

 

a typical low end 1970/1980's era scope shouldn't cost much more than 100pounds shipped on say ebay. I got a nice 1980's digital scope for $130 USD and an nice analog scope for probably $110USD.

They are pretty big and bulky tho compared to anything modern. But they should all be at least 20MHz bandwidth.

The cheap $20 pocket DSO's are ok for the price, which is usually only 200kHz, but they are like toys compared to 'real' scopes tho.

 

One comment about the USB PC scopes; they can be more risky to use if the channels are not truly isolated from the USB plug. A guy I was working with had a regular digital scope and was using it while attached to his PC via USB. He accidentally clipped the ground clip to the wrong place and it zapped not only his PC, but everything that was attached to his USB bus as well. That was an expensive oops.

 

I bought the finished unassembled model for that one but I usually use a drop or 2 of liquid Kester 951 no clean flux and clean with IPO when I do solder. Especially on older somewhat oxidized parts. That and rosin core 60/40 lead/tin solder.

There you go. Took me 5 hours to assemble. I wouldn't recommend doing this without a PC USB microscope, or something similar, to inspect your soldering. They are so small it would be impossible to inspect them with the naked eye. Looking good though and all the voltage checks checked out after assembly. I just have to go through the calibration steps and then have a play with it.

 

I also have the DSO150. Mine did not come with a wall wart. I have a battery pack strapped to the back. It was nice doing some automove audio troubleshooting.

I have two 100 MHz CRT scopes. Both work. One I have to do a Floppy to USB drive replacement and a RTC replacement.

I have two portable CRT scopes that need work.

 

Just to cap it off for anyone who may come along later looking for the same advice. This JYE Tech DSO150 is a pretty neat little device. Thanks to Sam for the tip. Tested it on various AC and DC sources. Half and full wave rectification and the waveforms and data are pretty accurate. I think this is a good buy for £25 which is what I paid for it. It certainly does what I was looking for.