First, it would be nice to have a manual for the 2834, if not a service manual or schematic. Maybe it is another Japanese model re-badged.
Anyway, just bought it used and seems to have some weird issues.\

The voltage selector was correctly set to 115VAC.
None of the fuses were blown. And a loud beep sounds at turn on.

It powered up okay, with clear LCD digits, and seems to toggle switch presses okay, shifting from modes and ranges. I have not test most functions with metric tests (freq, voltages, etc). This might take a while to go thru.
HOWEVER: The default Auto resistance reads about 136.00 ohms (should be infinity or O.L). If I short the leads, I do get zero (or beep). I can get accurate R readings in Manual mode. And in Manual mode, the correct "OL" displays with open leads.
One of the power supply R's (R202 , see photo) was charred a bit and reading about 90k to 106k. The color code seems to suggest only 20 ohm.
I checked the the voltage at the main and PSU PCBs where there is a label: +9v/0v . I read about the 13.5vDC with the wires connected or disconnected to main PCB. I replaced the R202, but the 9v/0v rail still reads 13.5vDC. The mains rect caps (2200uF are both in excellent shape). No fuse is blown and all the other interior components, besides R202, APPEAR to be ok.
The unit consumes the 1.5W printed on the chassis rear.
Again, I don't have manual . much less service manual. So I appreciate any help if you have PDF copy!

 

R202 is burnt and likely low value.
I believe R202 and Z201 are like a Y-cap from the multimeter's (isolated) side to earth ground.
Any idea what Z201 is, if it is shorted? Or just a Y-cap? I have seen 1-5nF and 100R as typical values. Using another multimeter, measure resistance from input COM(-) and PE ground, should be open circuit.
I've seen this RC before on other B&K and Taiwan bench multimeters.

You would think the multimeter section is purely floating- but no it has a HV RF ground Y-cap to limit common-mode susceptibility.

B&K Tech Support is really great giving out service manuals, if they have them for old products. Hit 'em up and just ask.

 

Z201

Not sure. It has no badging or label. I measured 30pF in circuit.
Anyway, I followed up with a few more tests: R values are a a bit lower than what they should be (310 ohm for precision metal film when correct value is 330 ohm). Diodes and voltages seem to be okay, but I need to do much more testing to establish confidence.

This meter uses solenoid relays in Auto mode, so they might need to be cleaned or replaced.

 

Hello,

All i could find is the user manual.

Bertus

 

BK sent me the PDFs of schematics and calib. Unfortunately, the docs do not provide the DC out voltage of the PSU board. And the main PCB is pretty cryptic. I'll upload them here soon.
Meanwhile, the white Z201 is not a cap (well not really). Can anyone guess what it might be?
Also, R202 is a 100K 1/2w 5% R. The color coding is very hard to determine, even under a microscope!

 

Z201 is not a capacitor, it is a spark gap. and it should measure as open circuit or 30pF.
so in current state it is still ok.

this also tells you why resistor got smoked... this unit had a date with Zeus. That is why R202 is 90+k or open
it need to be replaced with 1/2 Watt 20Ohm flame proof resistor.
once that is replaced, autoranging should/may work as intended.

 

Z201 is not a capacitor, it is a spark gap. and it should measure as open circuit or 30pF.
so in current state it is still ok.

Nope ...

this also tells you why resistor got smoked... this unit had a date with Zeus. That is why R202 is 90+k or open
it need to be replaced with 1/2 Watt 20Ohm flame proof resistor.
once that is replaced, autoranging should/may work as intended.

... and nope.

 

All files BK emailed for this 1986-built Model 2384 are attached.

Z201 is a varistor. And indeed R202 is 100K as I noted in #5.

It's hard to tell the color tones (aka tint or hue) until you get it under the scope and put a new one next to it.
And the schematic confirms.




Okay, my main issue is I can't calibrate it for most ranges; certain values on the MANU range buttons are more accurate than others. But the trimpot CALIB adjustments of range buttons (e.g. 250 ohm) is waaaaaaay out. So a 210 ohm R reads 173 ohm. No way to trimpot adj. Ditto with DC volts. Certain MANU range buttons are not too far from reading actual values of R's or DC. So, if one sets range of MANU resistance to 2500 ohm switch, the reading is about 0.203 ohms. Ditto weirdness with DC.I stopped attempting to calibrate at this point (so no FREQ, AC, etc)
Not sure what's wrong. I have not gone thru the electro caps yet on the Main PCB.
Let us know if you might know how to fix. Thanks!