I've searched through a bunch of those omron switches but i havent been able to find that style in a on/off configuration they've all been off/momentary switches.
If I could find it in off/on that would be the ideal situation because it would be easy to switch out and it would all be factory.

 

All of those "microswitch" style switches are momentary! THAT is why I suggested looking at the ALCO panel mount switches. I have seen an alternate action single pole panel mount switch at one time. It is a totally different form factor, so it will need a bit of added epoxy to build it out to the right shape. So the extension wires will need to be soldered on first. switch brands are not the same!

AND! That circuit schematic posted earlier was the HYDRAULIC circuit. Quite detailed and I could read it, but not the electrical circuit.

 

I posted both the hydraulic and electrical diagram. Was the electrical one to small to read or something?

 

OK, the electrical detail was on a separate post, and it was just what we needed to see that there is a great deal of something inside that sealed silver box.
The hydraulic circuit schematic is very impressive, though.
It seems that connecting a second switch mounted elsewhere will be the way to go, but you need to be very careful to assure that the two wires extending to that switch do not contact anything else, because that appears to be an isolated circuit. And still, the best choice will be replacing that momentary switch with an alternate action switch. But it will certainly be a different form factor.

 

So you're saying disconnect that switch altogether and run a on/off switch elsewhere?
There's another block off plate in the dash for a rocker switch that I could use.
Why not add the on/off switch and leave the momentary switch?

 

NO!! I was not suggesting removal of the existing momentary switch UNLESS an alternate action replacement that would fit were found. It appears that there are instances that only require a short operation of that function.
I have never operated a large excavator and so that is beyond my realm of experience. I have operated a common "farm tractor" and driven a crawler grader a small bit, but both of those were much different.

 

microswitch do come in latching problem is finding it seeing google not looking for what doesn't sale much

 

NO!! I was not suggesting removal of the existing momentary switch UNLESS an alternate action replacement that would fit were found. It appears that there are instances that only require a short operation of that function.
I have never operated a large excavator and so that is beyond my realm of experience. I have operated a common "farm tractor" and driven a crawler grader a small bit, but both of those were much different.

Basically all that function is for is full flow one direction for multchers, mowers or anything that’s one way continuous which is basically what I want to do without having to hold a button for hours at a time.
It’s also far from a large excavator this is one of the smallest ones I have but gets quite a bit of use on smaller lot clearing jobs. It’s only 12 or 13000 lbs.

What would be the best way to tap into those wires to run to another switch in the dash? My guess there around 20 22 gauge wires.

 

microswitch do come in latching problem is finding it seeing google not looking for what doesn't sale much

I reached out to DigiKey and they didn’t have anything to offer and I haven’t been able to source anything on my own. I definitely feel there most be something somewhere but I haven Had any luck yet.
I also reached out to Omron but I haven’t heard back from them yet.

 

It just a switch it’s NO and NC the one on the Cat at work has the same button the grey box is something like canbus holding aux does get old I’m sure you could just hook to the two terminals and run down with the wiring to the side console add a switch there.

 

It definitely get old holding that button when you get a bigger job and you're mulching brush for days. Its just in a awkward spot so high up on the joystick and you have to squeeze the joystick in order to operate the machine and hold that button at the same time.
After finding the diagrams to see what is going on I'm fine with adding a switch on the console and thats what I'm going to do. I just didnt want to start hacking at wires and putting switches in not knowing what was going on because that turns into a 2 or 3000 dollar mistake real quick making a mistake.
In my searches for a solution to this I came across a guy on a forum that decided to just throw a 12v power to the switch for some reason which is a random move to make in the first place but that ended up costing him a lot at the cat dealership.

 

CERTAINLY the one thing to NOT DO is to feed any power into a switch circuit without an accurate understanding of what that will do!! That is about the dumbest possible move!!
A thought came to mind this morning which was to add band around the control stick that could mechanically hold that trigger in the pressed position. Certainly a "Low Tech" scheme, but also certainly a safe one. And a lot less work, as well. Probably not OSHA approved, but easy to remove for the inspection day.
Of course, I am not sure how much force the button on the stick requires, so that might be a challenge.
As for the wire size, given the current rating of the switch, either #22 or even #24 would work. The physical strength of the wire would be the bigger concern. It will need to be wire with good insulation to prevent damage and possible short circuiting to the frame of the excavator. THAT could lead to problems.

 

It’s a dry switch

 

That was my initial thought was to wrap a band around it to hold it open but the switch is inset a bit and it’s hard to get something wrapped around it that will hold it open it keeps falling off.
Whats the best way to make that connection? I only have about an inch of wire to spice into.

 

That was my initial thought was to wrap a band around it to hold it open but the switch is inset a bit and it’s hard to get something wrapped around it that will hold it open it keeps falling off.
Whats the best way to make that connection? I only have about an inch of wire to spice into.

I suggest NOT SPLICING into the wire, but rather soldering onto the switch terminals next to the wire presently attached. That will result in a stable connection, not needing to add bulk to a very crowded section of the control. In addition it will provide the option of removing the addition with leaving no evidence if that ever is required. Certainly it will require some soldering skill and also a smaller pointed soldering tool. But attaching directly to the switch terminals will be the very best choice.
Of course, I am basing that on the guess that the switch is like all of the other microswitches that I have seen. And I am also aware that there are at least 957 individuals whose soldering ability could not possibly do that in a adequate manner. And we will hear from 35 of them saying it is too hard.

 

I suggest NOT SPLICING into the wire, but rather soldering onto the switch terminals next to the wire presently attached. That will result in a stable connection, not needing to add bulk to a very crowded section of the control. In addition it will provide the option of removing the addition with leaving no evidence if that ever is required. Certainly it will require some soldering skill and also a smaller pointed soldering tool. But attaching directly to the switch terminals will be the very best choice.
Of course, I am basing that on the guess that the switch is like all of the other microswitches that I have seen. And I am also aware that there are at least 957 individuals whose soldering ability could not possibly do that in a adequate manner. And we will hear from 35 of them saying it is too hard.

I could possibly do that but I don't have a soldering iron small enough or solder small enough but there is a electronics repair place in town that could do it real quick for me.
The problem with that though is they have silicone or epoxy over all the connections and I'm not sure ill be able to get it cleaned off well enough to solder without ruining the switch that's why I was wondering if there was a way to splice into the wire.
I know there's crimp on wire taps but is there any that are actually good or are they all junk.

 

The crimp-on wire taps that I have seen and used are OK for installations in building wiring, where there is no vibration. While the current handling of the small contact area would not be a problem, the lack of adequate wire support in an installation subject to vibration does not seem like it would be reliable. So it is not that the crimp-on taps are junk, but that they are not really suitable in this case.
And a small pencil type soldering iron suitable for the connection should not cost over $15, I don't think. Considering the value of that excavator machine, I would call that a good investment.
Peeling off the silicone certainly could be a serious pain, but with a lot of patience and a small "X-ACTO" knife it should be possible. But certainly it will take a fair bit of effort. If it is epoxy, that might not be possible.
Others may have a better idea.

 

There are crimp-on wire taps that are made for automotive applications
I've seen them on new trucks GMC and Ford

 

There are crimp-on wire taps that are made for automotive applications
I've seen them on new trucks GMC and Ford

OK, I have not seen them and so I did not comment.

 

The crimp-on wire taps that I have seen and used are OK for installations in building wiring, where there is no vibration. While the current handling of the small contact area would not be a problem, the lack of adequate wire support in an installation subject to vibration does not seem like it would be reliable. So it is not that the crimp-on taps are junk, but that they are not really suitable in this case.
And a small pencil type soldering iron suitable for the connection should not cost over $15, I don't think. Considering the value of that excavator machine, I would call that a good investment.
Peeling off the silicone certainly could be a serious pain, but with a lot of patience and a small "X-ACTO" knife it should be possible. But certainly it will take a fair bit of effort. If it is epoxy, that might not be possible.
Others may have a better idea.

I'm not really concerned about vibration the cab is quiet so if I could find a quality tap I'd go that route.
Worst case it fails eventually which I don't think it will I'll just have to solder the wires and heatshrink.
Here is a link to the tap I'll probably end up using.
Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap (posi-products.com)