Attaching thermocouples to PCB and MOSFETS

Thread Starter

jm_sanz

Joined Jun 9, 2021
10
We use Photobond resin of some kind, I can tell you on monday when I get back to work. We specifically had them recommend us some type that would not harden completely but into a silicon like substance so it would be easy to remove from the thermocouple and not destroy it. Yes you can solder or weld a new tip depending on the type, but it is unnecessary hassle.
We use some modified Ikea lamp with UV-A bulb mounted instead of the original one, and foot pedal to switch the thing on.
I usually just hold the joint with my hand and turn the uv on, abou five to ten seconds to make it hold and about ten more to be fully cured.
Great, could you please tell me the reference?
 

kubeek

Joined Sep 20, 2005
5,794
So found out that we use Dello Photobond AD494 that hardens to a hard state, and Dualbond GE4906 which is more pliable.
 

Thread Starter

jm_sanz

Joined Jun 9, 2021
10
So found out that we use Dello Photobond AD494 that hardens to a hard state, and Dualbond GE4906 which is more pliable.
Thank you for the references, They look great. By now, I have tested Loctite 401 which is not UV curable but sticks in 10 secs and I am getting really good results (around 2ºC difference between IR Camera and thermocouple). And it is a product very easy to buy (Farnell, Mouser, Amazon,...). I will give a try to your references to see if it gets better.

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robotDR

Joined Mar 17, 2020
90
I do this for work all the time. Exactly what you’re talking about.

I have tested the use of both super glue against specialized thermal epoxy. They both work. The superglue will heat soak quickly enough, to the temperature of the part.
Locktite superglue and a little bit of baking soda will basically instantly harden.

however locktite does sell an accelerate thst you apply first and then a drop oftheir super glue. Hold it for 5-10 seconds and it will hold its own. Another few minutes to fully harden.
 
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