That warning is always included to cover the seller and maker and reduce the probability of a natural selection event.Fusible links (thermal fuses) are replaceable. But you need to crimp them into place. Soldering them without super good heatsinking will blow them out. They're designed to fail under two conditions: Extreme heat (beyond their rating) and excess current (beyond their rating).
I've been finding lately that companies that build and sell appliances are using these links and rating them just slightly above their expected operating range. It's a bad engineering practice unless your goal is to sell more equipment. Mother-in-law had a washing machine blow an FL (Fusible Link). Was going to cost nearly $400 (US) to repair the machine. She decided she would just buy new. OR I could get the entire mechanism and install it myself for $135. The machine was hardly used and just under two years old. But I took the machine home and found that the failure point (the Mode Shift Coil) was where the failed FL was. Two bolts and it came right out. Riveted closed, I drilled out the rivets and opened the coil housing. There was no evidence of an overheat condition. Did some calc's and found the FL was rated for 106% of normal operation. Went to RadioShack and bought one rated for 146% normal operation and installed it at a cost lf $1.98 plus tax. So for slightly more than two bucks I fixed the machine that would have otherwise ended up in the scrap yard.
Had a similar condition with a neighbors oil filled electric heater. Again, a FL had blown. This is where I learned about not soldering on them. Replaced it with similar but slightly higher and it's been working perfectly.
NOW: WARNING; NEVER REPLACE A FUSE (OR OTHER SAFETY DEVICE) WITH A HIGHER RATED FUSE.
That being said, if you know the engineering, and I'm not calling myself an engineer, and you KNOW what you're doing, AND ACCEPT THE RISK, all should be OK. Desk top fans are good examples of FL failures. The motor bushings get dirty and the fan has to work harder to move air, the motor overheats, and potentially causes a fire. THAT is where you DEFINITELY don't want to fool around with ratings unless you're VERY experienced on such matters. You're fryer? Since it is a high temp device, I would advise you replace your FL with a properly rated link.
Give us the details and rating on the FL. Maybe someone here will have a good solution to the problem.
I routinely repair those non-reparable items. The last one was a slow cooker, still almost new. It seems that the heater element had failed just past the attachment point. So it was a fairly complete dis-assembly, adjust, and re-assemble, all on a quiet Monday afternoon at an almost empty campground. Fortunately I had the tools that I needed along. It is still working now many meals later.Some updates on the air fryer...
1. Check drawer tray micro switch ... good continuity.
2. Check thermal fuse(rated 172 deg celsius) ... good continuity. I originally thought that the thermal fuse was the culprit.
That thermal fuse is hard to get to. It's hidden behind the heat shield. The fan nut is very loose.
I put everything back together and power on. It works.
Now, the intermittent problem could be the thermostat or timer and it's not worth pursuing.
I will get a new fryer.
|Thread starter||Similar threads||Forum||Replies||Date|
|S||Testing Thermal Breaker Switch||Test & Measurement||4|
|A quick question about thermal voltage||General Science, Physics & Math||2|
|Calculating Thermal resistance of heat sink||General Electronics Chat||9|
|P||Thermal Analysis of Schematic||PCB Layout & EDA||3|
|A||Buck IC Thermal management calculation||Power Electronics||4|
by Jake Hertz
by Luke James
by Jake Hertz