Hi,
I am trying to figure out how to wire a switch that will basically just swap or reverse wires. I have an outboard motor with a couple of solenoids for an up and down trim. One blue wire controls the up, and a green coming from another solenoid controls the down. The up stopped working so I figured it was the solenoid, replaced it, and it still doesn't work. However, it does work and I can get up and down as long as I swap the wires. I'm thinking it might be something else internal and I just want to get it out on the water. Right now my solution is to route the wires outside of the motor cover and swap them each time for up and down respectively. It would be more convenient if I could figure out some type of switch that could do this. I have a DPDT switch and tried wiring it but didn't have success. Thanks for any help on this!

 

Wire the DPDT switch as in this diagram.

 

DPDT with Center Off, preferably spring loaded for center off, but spring loading is not necessary as long as you return the switch to the off position.
https://www.amazon.com/Joinfworld-M...roof-Automotive/dp/B0C22K75FZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

 

Post #2 is correct wiring, with two serious cautions: First, to use a single switch, it MUST include a center off position AND it must have an adequate current rating for the application load. Two separate requirements.

 

it must have an adequate current rating for the application load.

I had also considered that aspect. The switch must be rated to handle the actuator that raises and lowers the motor. I assumed it is probably 12 volts - and definitely DC - if you can reverse the wiring and that reverses the motor. So the current is the more critical issue.

I made the suggestion and link to a spring loaded switch. One could set it to lower the motor into the water and forget the switch, thus potentially damaging the motor and draining the battery.

EDIT: If the raising and lowering mechanism has limit switches then Center Off and Spring Loading becomes unnecessary.
END EDIT

 

You could use two SPDT switches if desired, instead of one DPDT with center-off (below):
Note that both switches down, or both up, provide 0V across the load.

 

EDIT: If the raising and lowering mechanism has limit switches then Center Off and Spring Loading becomes unnecessary.

Not for this application.
The solenoids are for trim, so would always need to be turned off when the desired trim is reached.

 

Not for this application.
The solenoids are for trim, so would always need to be turned off when the desired trim is reached.

Even then wouldn't there be limit switches? Attempting to over-trim could result in a jammed motor and possible damage to the motor or even the mechanism. No?

 

Even then wouldn't there be limit switches? Attempting to over-trim could result in a jammed motor and possible damage to the motor or even the mechanism. No?

Yes.
But I don't see how that is relevant to the request from the TS for a switch connection to control the trim (?).

 

You could use two SPDT switches if desired, instead of one DPDT with center-off (below):
Note that both switches down, or both up, provide 0V across the load.


View attachment 370670

I have suggested that circuit, either relays as shown, or switches directly, quite a few times for various applications.

 

Yes.
But I don't see how that is relevant to the request from the TS for a switch connection to control the trim (?).

True. But it has become a part of the discussion. And now it's fading away from the discussion. There have been many discussions that included extemporaneous warnings that were not a part of the discussion. It's how we roll.

 

There could be a real advantage to using two SPDT push buttos in that the direction of motion would be more obvious. At least it seems that way to me.

 

The blue and green wires likely trigger the UP and DOWN solenoids rather than powering the motor directly. This relay overview explains the principle.

Use a marine-rated, momentary SPDT ON–OFF–ON switch: fused +12 V to common, blue to one output and green to the other. Since swapping the wires works, first check the original switch and connectors for corrosion or a broken connection.

 

Consider also that the description we are given in post #1 is "rather nebulous", with quite a bit of information missing!
"Solenoids", by themselves, do not do adjusting, unless they drive leadscrews.
Of course, those "solenoids" might actually be contactors switching power to an adjusting motor, or solenoid valves controlling hydraulic cylinders to adjust the motor angle. Unfortunately the word has been used very broadly and that always leads to less accuracy.