I have got it working. Connect the Yellow wire to the Brown wire this turns on the lights (and turns on the board?) When these are connected to the Black it starts up. Why there is the Red wire in this bundle I don't know. I still have to active the reed switch in the bag safety but that should be a easy rewire. The tilt sensor does not have to be there so that's great. I connected the motor to my pump and it works fine. Will it pump up to a 80 foot head I don't know. according to flow rate, head, and HP it should do it. Won't know until I get up to the cabin.

 

I have got it working. Connect the Yellow wire to the Brown wire this turns on the lights (and turns on the board?) When these are connected to the Black it starts up. Why there is the Red wire in this bundle I don't know. I still have to active the reed switch in the bag safety but that should be a easy rewire. The tilt sensor does not have to be there so that's great. I connected the motor to my pump and it works fine. Will it pump up to a 80 foot head I don't know. according to flow rate, head, and HP it should do it. Won't know until I get up to the cabin.

Hi Demonsgirl,
I have a similar or same controller I just received from eBay. Mine didn't come with any LED's, switches or sensors. I can't get it to work and I'm hoping you can be a bit more specific about what each set of wires needs to do. I have supplied 40V DC to the main Black/Red.
I have connected yellow and brown together from the four wire harness and tried connecting black to run the motor to no avail.
I wasn't clear on what to do with the Black/Green/Grey wires so I tried every combination of them and still the motor doesn't run.
I assume the small Black/Red wires with a black plug are for charging and that the red wire going to the battery connection is for battery monitoring so I haven't done anything with those.

 

Well now I am going to have to think about it. You do have to do other wires. The grey wires I don't think I did anything with. I believe they are the tilt switch but it worked without a bypass here. You do have to connect 2 of the wires that would have been the grass catcher safety. The small red wire coming out of the controller directly tied to the positive bus and not used. I actually took my controller case apart and put all the wiring inside that i could so I have no visual reference at this time. The controller is mounted inside my pump housing body and would be a major pain to remove. Let me see if I can find any notes I made.

 

Well now I am going to have to think about it. You do have to do other wires. The grey wires I don't think I did anything with. I believe they are the tilt switch but it worked without a bypass here. You do have to connect 2 of the wires that would have been the grass catcher safety. The small red wire coming out of the controller directly tied to the positive bus and not used. I actually took my controller case apart and put all the wiring inside that i could so I have no visual reference at this time. The controller is mounted inside my pump housing body and would be a major pain to remove. Let me see if I can find any notes I made.

Thanks so much for getting back to me. It would be great if you could remember. I bought two of these to use on an electric mower conversion. I have attached some pictures here which may hopefully help. To the best of my understanding, the grey, black, green bundle goes to the grass catcher. It's a magnetic device which I don't have so I can't tell how to simulate. You can see that the wires are connected to i2, gnd and i3 on the board. I can't find any reference to the four grey wires on the short bundle so I haven't tried to do anything with those. There isn't any label on the board where they are soldered in.

 

The grass catcher safety is bypassed by connecting the green wire to the black wire. Because the lights became active as soon as the yellow and brown are connected i separated them on a DPDT switch and have them connect to the black wire at the same time. When the brown and yellow are connected it activates a circuit which could drain the battery even if the lights are not there (which mine are not). All other wires that are not connected to the battery are not needed.

 

This is the finished pump. Works perfect with the recycled bronze pump which used to be driven by a gas engine. I may try a quieter pump later. The pump was originally connected by a chain drive, I'm using a flexible direct drive under the cover. The pump is noisy but the motor is near silent. I used a switch for the main power and one for the start stop (yellow brown wires). I installed this in a plastic storage box with 2 cutouts for the hose connections, this was to keep rain off just in case. Hmmmm RAIN, it rained so hard one night the river rose 3 feet putting my pump under water. I tried to dry it out using silica gel but it still would not work. I brought it home and opened up the controller and found it full of water. After cleaning out the mud and drying the circuit board it worked fine. I have now added a lot more silicon sealer around the wiring. Hopefully I wont get it under water again. Good thing the battery was not connected but was up being recharged or that might have been unfixable. My goal of eliminating bring gas is now complete. I have the Ryobi 40V chain saw, weed whipper, hedge trimmer and now the pump. Converted the Yamaha generator to propane so no need for gasoline any more.

 

It works!!!! I am so grateful for your help. Thanks so much for sharing your learnings with me. I can now go ahead and finish building my lawnmower.

I really like your pump and your persistence in getting everything working from the common 40V platform.

 

Glad I could help good luck and have fun.

 

Demonsgirl, thanks so much for this info! Details of the switch wires are hard to come by. Brown seems to be "run" and yellow is "start." I'm hoping to do a lawn tractor conversion with a few of these. Summarizing for those who come later...

3 wires green-black-grey: OEM "bag present" switch.
- Connect green-black.
- Grey is not used.
4 wires red-yellow-brown-black: Start and Run.
- Momentary for yellow-black; SPST for brown-black.
- All 3 need to be connected to start, order doesn't matter.
- Red is not used.
4 wire ribbon cable (grey): OEM tilt switch.
- Not used.

Disconnecting green-black or brown-black brings motor to quick stop (e.g., "blade brake" in a lawn mower). Disconnecting battery is a slower stop.